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I have read through a lot of the diesel threads and found some parts and pieces of info where folks with 6.8s have done this, several threads where folks asked about doing it to a 6.2 and were referred to the Ford Body Builder's Layout Book for the PTO/SEIC mod, but really not a lot on where someone with a 11-16 6.2 had done this successfully. I've wanted to do this mod to bump the idle up a bit to have the ability to run the inverter and have decent AC in the rare event I sit with the truck idling in the heat here in the south. Here's what I found along the way....it's pretty straightforward even with the somewhat confusing info in the Ford BBLB for the gas vs diesel procedure to do this.
About three-3' pieces of 18ga wire in various colors
A cheapo 12V-20A 4 wire relay and socket
Some 3M tape, various heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder, etc.
First, the confusing part. The circuit labels and descriptions on Page 7 of the BBLB don't jibe. The labels on my blunt-cut wires under the dash half match the diesel PCM and are totally different from what's shown under the gas PCM circuit descriptions.
The good part is, the wire colors and functions do jibe with the gas PCM on Page 7.I studied and followed the wiring diagram on Page 13.
This is where I wasn't able to find a lot of information on whether others had or had not gotten this working on a gas engine. It's clear you need to apply +12V to the Y-G wire and variable voltage (or resistor based on chart) to the G wire. What isn't clear is if the rest of the diagram with the relay is necessary.
Here's what I found. Doing what I described above by applying +12V to the Y-G wire from upfitter switch #4 and applying variable voltage from the 5K pot to the G wire, the truck does go into SEIC mode and the idle elevates to about 950 RPM but the varied voltage on the G wire does nothing, no change in RPM. I then changed it to apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire and the B-O (PTO RS2) wire from the upfitter switch based on the diagram. Same thing, truck goes into SEIC and the RPM would stay at 950. At that point, I realized you need to use a relay to control the sequence of when +12V gets applied to the B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
This is what I did and confirm it works as expected now (wire labels included). Idle is controllable with the pot from about 950 up to about 2400.
Apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire with upfitter switch 4. Truck enters SEIC mode and the RPM elevates to about 950.
B-W (PTO OIL) wire switches to ground once truck has entered SEIC mode, closes relay and applies +12V to B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
Engine RPM goes up or down to whatever value the pot is set to because of the voltage applied to the G (PTO IR) wire.
Unless the sequence above is followed, the truck will not allow you to vary the RPM. Hopefully this is helpful to someone else who considered this mod but never went through with it because they (like me) had trouble finding answers on how to do this for a gasser.
I have it on my ‘14. I forget which wires we used, but it didn’t match anything we found. We just happened to get the right combination, on accident. Mine has to be put in Park, set parking brake, tap service brake, upfitter #4, wait until idle gets to around 950 RPM, hit second switch we installed, then, the **** adjusts it from 950 RPM to 2,500 RPM.
Yep, that's what I found with two separate switches also, you have to apply +12V to the two separate circuits, in that sequence for the RPM be adjusted. Otherwise, it just goes to 950 or so and stays there.
I took the second switch out, replaced it with a relay and control it with the W-B wire as shown in the diagram. Works like you'd expect once the upfiter switch #4 is turned on.
I have read through a lot of the diesel threads and found some parts and pieces of info where folks with 6.8s have done this, several threads where folks asked about doing it to a 6.2 and were referred to the Ford Body Builder's Layout Book for the PTO/SEIC mod, but really not a lot on where someone with a 11-16 6.2 had done this successfully. I've wanted to do this mod to bump the idle up a bit to have the ability to run the inverter and have decent AC in the rare event I sit with the truck idling in the heat here in the south. Here's what I found along the way....it's pretty straightforward even with the somewhat confusing info in the Ford BBLB for the gas vs diesel procedure to do this.
About three-3' pieces of 18ga wire in various colors
A cheapo 12V-20A 4 wire relay and socket
Some 3M tape, various heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder, etc.
First, the confusing part. The circuit labels and descriptions on Page 7 of the BBLB don't jibe. The labels on my blunt-cut wires under the dash half match the diesel PCM and are totally different from what's shown under the gas PCM circuit descriptions.
The good part is, the wire colors and functions do jibe with the gas PCM on Page 7.I studied and followed the wiring diagram on Page 13.
This is where I wasn't able to find a lot of information on whether others had or had not gotten this working on a gas engine. It's clear you need to apply +12V to the Y-G wire and variable voltage (or resistor based on chart) to the G wire. What isn't clear is if the rest of the diagram with the relay is necessary.
Here's what I found. Doing what I described above by applying +12V to the Y-G wire from upfitter switch #4 and applying variable voltage from the 5K pot to the G wire, the truck does go into SEIC mode and the idle elevates to about 950 RPM but the varied voltage on the G wire does nothing, no change in RPM. I then changed it to apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire and the B-O (PTO RS2) wire from the upfitter switch based on the diagram. Same thing, truck goes into SEIC and the RPM would stay at 950. At that point, I realized you need to use a relay to control the sequence of when +12V gets applied to the B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
This is what I did and confirm it works as expected now (wire labels included). Idle is controllable with the pot from about 950 up to about 2400.
Apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire with upfitter switch 4. Truck enters SEIC mode and the RPM elevates to about 950.
B-W (PTO OIL) wire switches to ground once truck has entered SEIC mode, closes relay and applies +12V to B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
Engine RPM goes up or down to whatever value the pot is set to because of the voltage applied to the G (PTO IR) wire.
Unless the sequence above is followed, the truck will not allow you to vary the RPM. Hopefully this is helpful to someone else who considered this mod but never went through with it because they (like me) had trouble finding answers on how to do this for a gasser.
Thank you for sharing. I just stumbled on this post from google searching high idle. First "Forum post" in probably 6+ years. 🤣🤣 I have a few questions on your installation. Can you DM me on Facebook (Augustus Vaquero) or Instagram (kowboy.kyle)?
Thank you for sharing. I just stumbled on this post from google searching high idle. First "Forum post" in probably 6+ years. 🤣🤣 I have a few questions on your installation. Can you DM me on Facebook (Augustus Vaquero) or Instagram (kowboy.kyle)?
What are your questions? I do not use FB or IG but would be happy to PM here or message my cell.
I have read through a lot of the diesel threads and found some parts and pieces of info where folks with 6.8s have done this, several threads where folks asked about doing it to a 6.2 and were referred to the Ford Body Builder's Layout Book for the PTO/SEIC mod, but really not a lot on where someone with a 11-16 6.2 had done this successfully. I've wanted to do this mod to bump the idle up a bit to have the ability to run the inverter and have decent AC in the rare event I sit with the truck idling in the heat here in the south. Here's what I found along the way....it's pretty straightforward even with the somewhat confusing info in the Ford BBLB for the gas vs diesel procedure to do this.
About three-3' pieces of 18ga wire in various colors
A cheapo 12V-20A 4 wire relay and socket
Some 3M tape, various heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder, etc.
First, the confusing part. The circuit labels and descriptions on Page 7 of the BBLB don't jibe. The labels on my blunt-cut wires under the dash half match the diesel PCM and are totally different from what's shown under the gas PCM circuit descriptions.
The good part is, the wire colors and functions do jibe with the gas PCM on Page 7.I studied and followed the wiring diagram on Page 13.
This is where I wasn't able to find a lot of information on whether others had or had not gotten this working on a gas engine. It's clear you need to apply +12V to the Y-G wire and variable voltage (or resistor based on chart) to the G wire. What isn't clear is if the rest of the diagram with the relay is necessary.
Here's what I found. Doing what I described above by applying +12V to the Y-G wire from upfitter switch #4 and applying variable voltage from the 5K pot to the G wire, the truck does go into SEIC mode and the idle elevates to about 950 RPM but the varied voltage on the G wire does nothing, no change in RPM. I then changed it to apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire and the B-O (PTO RS2) wire from the upfitter switch based on the diagram. Same thing, truck goes into SEIC and the RPM would stay at 950. At that point, I realized you need to use a relay to control the sequence of when +12V gets applied to the B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
This is what I did and confirm it works as expected now (wire labels included). Idle is controllable with the pot from about 950 up to about 2400.
Apply +12V to the Y-G (PTO RS1) wire with upfitter switch 4. Truck enters SEIC mode and the RPM elevates to about 950.
B-W (PTO OIL) wire switches to ground once truck has entered SEIC mode, closes relay and applies +12V to B-O (PTO RS2) wire.
Engine RPM goes up or down to whatever value the pot is set to because of the voltage applied to the G (PTO IR) wire.
Unless the sequence above is followed, the truck will not allow you to vary the RPM. Hopefully this is helpful to someone else who considered this mod but never went through with it because they (like me) had trouble finding answers on how to do this for a gasser.
Additionally - my potentiometer is only a 2K. If I understand correctly, my adjustments will be limited to ONLY the part circled in yellow? Thanks!
I have the potentiometer wired up (pictured) but I'm not sure which color needs to go where, based on your first post. Thanks!
I wired one side to the +12V coming from upfitter switch 4, grounded the other side to the dashboard frame, then the center tap which is the varied voltage was connected to the Green (PTO RPM) blunt cut wire.
Additionally - my potentiometer is only a 2K. If I understand correctly, my adjustments will be limited to ONLY the part circled in yellow? Thanks!
That is how I read it as well.
I turn on upfitter switch 4, the truck goes into SEIC mode and the idle raises to about 950. The relay closes and then I can adjust the engine RPM with the potentiometer.
Update: I got it working. My only gripe is that I have to turn the potentiometer to the left rather than the right to idle it up higher. I assume this is as simple as swapping the outside leads? Either way, huge thanks to @saratoga2011.
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