got heat?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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i ran a heavy flexible 3ft vent tube, one of the heavy flex in 4in dia, out a 4ft hole to a vent out the wall with the rain ange cap n dryer type vent cap not the door flap type that r spring loaded. n made for the foece of dryer air. does this sound ok? i have a chute from the old kerosene heater but didnt want to start cutting holes in the ceiling with all the snow i just got. i see what u r saying to make sure it is done right so the insurance co dont stick me with the bill if it blows up ,lord forbid. i probaly will just keep running the in unit thermostat and probaly go to a wall mount or something when the garage is finished. but by then i might have the $$ for the ceiling unit. it had instructions in the pilot door for the venting but i figured it was in a house and had more venting than it has now and less pipe the better? its all greek to me. but i figure i have the line in and buried which is usually most the battle.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: S.W. Michigan
Man are you gonna love that Hot Dawg heater.I put one in last year and it is the nuts.I hooked up 2 thermostats one for working temp and the other for the rest of the time and a switch to go from one setting to the other or shut off all together.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Greenwood In. USA
Eric
9 btu's works for most of the central US. You might want to use more up north and less down south. 9 btus assumes you have normal to no insulation. I have used that number to figure heat load for years. If anyone is interested I can run a acurate heat loss, But I need lots of info about the building, Insulation, size, number of windows and doors etc.
Fordtruck Just make sure its not spilling out the draft hood. Take a match or a cig and hold it near the hood and see if its drawing.
As soon as you are able run some proper b-vent (insulated vent pipe)
regards
9 btu's works for most of the central US. You might want to use more up north and less down south. 9 btus assumes you have normal to no insulation. I have used that number to figure heat load for years. If anyone is interested I can run a acurate heat loss, But I need lots of info about the building, Insulation, size, number of windows and doors etc.
Fordtruck Just make sure its not spilling out the draft hood. Take a match or a cig and hold it near the hood and see if its drawing.
As soon as you are able run some proper b-vent (insulated vent pipe)
regards
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
Also the "Rule of Thumb" for sizing is 9 btu's per cubic foot of space to be heated. Example 24ft x 24ft x 9ft =5184 cuft x 9 =46,656 btu's of heat input
That's what I got for cheap and she'll make ya sweat!
Is there a way to unhook or block off part of the burner so it actually makes less heat? I want it to run longer, make less heat, and it would be a much more comfy work place.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Greenwood In. USA
Depends on your insulation but yes. The proper way to "de-rate" your furnace would be put smaller orifices in for each burner. For example: 80,000 btu furnace might have 4 burners. each burner orifice on natural gas would be sized to put out 20,000 btu each with a #43 drill orifice If you replaced them with a #47 drill you would de-rate them to 15,646 each for a total of 62,584btu.
Caution: Check with the manufactuer or a HVAC man before you do anything. Some times you cannot de-rate you must replace.
Also keep in mind all heating appliances are size on btu input.
Actual output depends on the efficancy of the system. ex 80,000 furnace thats 80% actual out is 64,000btu.
Remember More is not always better if you oversize you will superheat the space and the unit will short cycle have long shutdown periods which is inefficant
Caution: Check with the manufactuer or a HVAC man before you do anything. Some times you cannot de-rate you must replace.
Also keep in mind all heating appliances are size on btu input.
Actual output depends on the efficancy of the system. ex 80,000 furnace thats 80% actual out is 64,000btu.
Remember More is not always better if you oversize you will superheat the space and the unit will short cycle have long shutdown periods which is inefficant
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basically the vent is to make sure i am sucking air from the outside and getting fresh right. as long as i am sucking in fresh oxygen and not burning myself up i should be ok, but als have to be to code. how high off the ground does the vent pipe have to be off the ground? i am about 4 ft maybe now. i could redo it running 4-5 in vent pipe straight up then straight out the wall, then turn it up straight at a 90 deg and put a cap on it. i ve seen them run straight out the wall like this but it was usually higher off the ground.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Greenwood In. USA
The vent is to vent the products of combustion. A console type space heater uses room air for combustion. Venting codes vary by location. So check with a local supply house or HVAC guy to find out what is good in your area
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Penn Valley
While in a conventional setting it might not be good to overrate I think it is appropriate in a garage setting. I work a lot in a steel building in the winter and if a vehicle is too large to work on with the doors closed or I am doing a lot of walking in and out or I have to open the doors to vent some vehicle exhaust or poison fumes I like to have the heater be able to catch up quickly when I close the doors. Of course it is best to have two heaters for this scenario which is sort of what I do. I have a diesel heater that I fire up to bring things back to temperature quickly but I let the gas Reznor do most of the work.
Birken
Birken
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,421
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From: Minnesota
radiant heat
radiant heat is definitely the way to go if you are doing new construction rather than a retrofit. i'm talking about a heated FLOOR. in a cold climate, this is SO much better when you are laying on the floor working. and you don't need to have the temperature very high; 50 is plenty when you are working. floor heat can be liquid (it's antifreeze so it never freezes even when off) or electric pads. We used the pads and 3 feet of sand as a heat sink; insulation all around the sand pit. it is very economical when done with off-peak electric. much of january was below zero in minnesota and our bill was $55.
if you are retrofitting an existing garage, then floor heat becomes an expensive solution.
if you are retrofitting an existing garage, then floor heat becomes an expensive solution.