Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to be clear. I'm a shadetree mechanic and I've repaired my truck with y'all's help before but I'm stumped this time.

Being retired I don't drive daily. Recently there have been a few times when the truck would have to crank for a bit longer than normal to start.

Yesterday I go out to start the truck and it cranks for a long time starts and dies. I go in the house to get the tablet with the Torque program on it to measure pressure/stats. Well it takes a while for the ICP pressure to build up the IPR is like 50%. Finally starts runs for a few seconds and dies again.

Sounded like it was starving for fuel so I pop the hood to replace the filter and have a look around and a squirrels nest in on top of my engine. The little rat had chewed through the red and green vacuum lines, the wires to the waste gate sensor.

After removing the nest I change the filter, solder the waste gate wire back together and ordered a set of vacuum lines.

It still didn't want to start easily but it finally did start so I ran it down the road to charge the batteries. It was running pretty good.

Next day I do out and same thing is happening. This time I take a better look for more wires chewed and find the spacer and nut for the IPR missing and the coil has moved out of position. One of the wires was chewed on but not broken so I taped it up, put the spacer back on and tie-wired the spacer in place for testing. It still was hard starting, white smoke and dieing after 10 seconds or so. I suspected wiring harness problems at this point. All visible connections were tight going to the 'valve' covers.

I go in the house to get the laptop and Enginuity rig to run a buzz test on the injectors to check the under cover wiring. I hook the computer up to the truck and cleared all the codes. When I start the truck to get the recent codes the truck starts fine and runs normally. It did take a little bit of extra cranking but it soon smoothed out.
Screenshot below is when truck was running. (I'm not an Enginuity expert at all.)

I still have to wait the the vacuum lines and IPR nut to get here to drive it, but at this point I don't trust the truck. Any ideas?



Codes from Torque before clearing:
P0113
P0238
P0475
P0541
P0119
P1212
P1316

 

Update: Let it sit for a few hours and now it's taking a long time to build up injector pressure, starts, runs rough, no power then dies. More information tomorrow. Too tired tonight. First thought to do is a buzz test. ??

 

Yes, agree on the buzz test. You have P1316, so there are codes stored in the IDM we need to see.

Is the oil level full? How long since last oil change?
Is fuel level over 1/4 tank? Have you done the in-tank mods? Fuel pressure would be good to know.

You can try unplugging the ICP sensor, and see if it starts and runs better without dying. You have P1212, so the PCM is not happy with the reading from the ICP sensor.

Here's the codes and their explanations: Some of these are likely that darn squirrel. I'm assuming you meant P1119. I can't find P0119

 

Before you start it next time, take a look at the HPOP reservoir and see if the oil level is within 0.7" of the top. Maybe it's leaking down when it sits a bit.

 

Get a terrier. Won't do any thing to fix the truck, but will keep the squirrels away.

 

Thank you for your replies. First I'll reply to the questions. I can't get the inspection plug off of the top of the HPOP, the hole is buggered up where the the tool fits in. 5/8 of a tank of fuel, mod not done yet but I need to do it, (suspect foot of pickup is off) . 2600 miles since oil change - but it was over a gallon low! Added oil and it started and ran normally. It has not ever used oil like that before, I've had leaks like a bad o ring on the HPOP fitting but this low oil condition was a total shock to me. The buzz test was SAT. All injector sounded loud no discernible differences.

I am supposing an injector O ring issue?

If so how can I determine which injector it bad?

 

In addition....You were correct, it was a P1119 code, not P0119.
After adding oil and starting engine I cleared all codes and ran it again:
P0113
P0475
P0541
I removed the incoming air heater and replaced with a plug, so I think this is what is causing 2 of the codes..?
The vacuum lines for the waste gate have not arrived, don't know if that has anything to do with the 'exhaust pressure control valve' code.
There is a DP tuner on it running 80hp map.

 

I've seen oil consumption like that from bad Injector Orings, Failing Injectors, and failing turbo.
Did the fuel filter housing have any oil in it? The one time I've seen it the fuel was all black. The superduties don't always get oil in the filter bowl with bad orings.
I've also heard of CCV causing a lot of oil consumption, but I haven't personally seen that one.

 

Yes, the fuel filter was blackish. I admit that the fuel filter only gets changed every 3rd oil change, or so. Oil filter every time.

 

Dumb question. How is the air filter? A very dirty air filter may cause extra oil usage through the CCV in my opinion.

You don’t have to have the green/red hoses. Stick a small plug with a zip tie over the nipple on the spider and call it good.

 

I had squirrels chew up my air filter and build a nest in its place in my 2006 F350 5.4l a few years ago. Cleaned it up and put a thick wire screen over the air inlet. They chewed through the wire and chewed up the filter again. So....check your air filter box - squirrel may be hiding in there.

 

I have the big *** round filter mod on it, it is clean. How do I check the CCV?
I've already ordered the vacuum lines, like 15 or 20 bucks. good to know they're not required, but the lack of vacuum has my AC blowing though the defrost vents, like it does when I engage 4WD.
I have a nail driving Ruger 10/22, I'll fix the squirrel problem. Not a hunter but love guns.

 

Red/green lines are not vacuum. This is boost pressure that the solenoid uses to open the wastegate early. If you are having venting issues then you will need to keep looking for the vacuum leak.

 

OK, found the vacuum leak. Small, hard black line above the freon lines had a 4" section missing, squirrels no doubt. Thanks. Coupled it back together with some aquarium air line.

Everything seems good except for now, it acts like the oil is leaking back out the hpop (internally). If I restart it immediately after killing it it starts right up, if I wait 15 seconds then it cranks for a while before the Torque (tablet) gauge show oil pressure and it fires up. Is that because of the check valve under the HPOP and on top of the engine block or am I confused yet again?

Also, any advice on how to find the right injector or is is better to just keep checking/adding oil?
Thank you guys for helping me through this, I was afraid it was time to replace the passenger side injector wiring harness - I have already done the DS.

 

Also a gun lover....

My latest .22...




4.5" barrel + Suppressor (not shown in that pic) and 25 rnd magazines is silly fun.
Thats on a lower for another gun, I'm collecting parts to build a poly lower with a folding pistol brace to be a dedicated home for that upper.