70 f100 restoration issues
#1
70 f100 restoration issues
Hey all,
I’ve been restoring my 70 f100 2wd w/302 for the last 2 years, body work is done (used as much stock steel as possible) and finished painting it myself last week with single stage urethane. Now that’s done, I’ve moved back to my drivetrain which I had the 302 rebuilt when first started the build because at first, that’s all I was going to do but we all know how that goes, one thing led to another and I ended up doing a DIY off the frame restoration. So, the engine runs but seems like it has 0 power, and it backfires a little. New edelbrock 500cfm carb, new distributor (that first come with points and later changed to PerTronix Electronic Ignition, hoping it would cure the issues, which I will change back to points after the issue is resolved) and new regulator. I’ve played with the timing for hours including reinstalling the distributor several times at TDC but cant figure out what’s going on.Has good compression as well. It acts like a bad accelerator pump does. Anyone ever went though this or maybe think of something I’m not?
I’ve been restoring my 70 f100 2wd w/302 for the last 2 years, body work is done (used as much stock steel as possible) and finished painting it myself last week with single stage urethane. Now that’s done, I’ve moved back to my drivetrain which I had the 302 rebuilt when first started the build because at first, that’s all I was going to do but we all know how that goes, one thing led to another and I ended up doing a DIY off the frame restoration. So, the engine runs but seems like it has 0 power, and it backfires a little. New edelbrock 500cfm carb, new distributor (that first come with points and later changed to PerTronix Electronic Ignition, hoping it would cure the issues, which I will change back to points after the issue is resolved) and new regulator. I’ve played with the timing for hours including reinstalling the distributor several times at TDC but cant figure out what’s going on.Has good compression as well. It acts like a bad accelerator pump does. Anyone ever went though this or maybe think of something I’m not?
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Firing order is correct with what’s on the manifold, I’ve. Hacked and double checked thinking as you did.i haven’t put the shroud on yet, do u think it’ll still be too far away? It’s a all stock setup except for the ac I installed and the modifications I made to make it power steering and keep my 3 on the tree ( that was a fun little project). The rad is a aftermarket.
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Pumping the pedal to keep it going = fuel issue. Fuel pump, float level, clog or debris in carb, lines, tank pickup.
You can't really foul up the valve timing unless you bought a fancier timing set and moved it 4 degrees one way or the other.
So this is a new rebuild? Was it broken in with the high rpm idle for 20 minutes or whatever the cam maker required?
Did it ever run right, or has it been dog since first fire after the rebuild?
You can't really foul up the valve timing unless you bought a fancier timing set and moved it 4 degrees one way or the other.
So this is a new rebuild? Was it broken in with the high rpm idle for 20 minutes or whatever the cam maker required?
Did it ever run right, or has it been dog since first fire after the rebuild?
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Kenny- it’s a stock cast iron intake.
85e150- It will stay running well, have to pump it to get rpms up,yes a new rebuild, it was broken in at 2,000rpm’s for 20 min per engine rebuild mechanic (he’s a local guy here in town called Jungle, very good at what he does). No it hasn’t run right but I moved on from just a engine rebuild to a total restoration and thought I’d fight that fight at the end and now I’m close to that end. I agree with you in that I think it’s the carb. I have good fuel pressure. I bought the carb on EBay. It’s supposed to be new but the box didn’t look that way. It was clean and the floats are at the correct level. It’s did this since the beginning, I’ve took apart and cleaned it several times with the same results. It acts like a accelerator pomp diaphragm but as far as can tell, these carbs don’t really have one like the older carbs do. Any ideas what else I could check on the carb (1403 Edelbrock)?
85e150- It will stay running well, have to pump it to get rpms up,yes a new rebuild, it was broken in at 2,000rpm’s for 20 min per engine rebuild mechanic (he’s a local guy here in town called Jungle, very good at what he does). No it hasn’t run right but I moved on from just a engine rebuild to a total restoration and thought I’d fight that fight at the end and now I’m close to that end. I agree with you in that I think it’s the carb. I have good fuel pressure. I bought the carb on EBay. It’s supposed to be new but the box didn’t look that way. It was clean and the floats are at the correct level. It’s did this since the beginning, I’ve took apart and cleaned it several times with the same results. It acts like a accelerator pomp diaphragm but as far as can tell, these carbs don’t really have one like the older carbs do. Any ideas what else I could check on the carb (1403 Edelbrock)?
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Kenny- it’s a stock cast iron intake.
85e150- It will stay running well, have to pump it to get rpms up,yes a new rebuild, it was broken in at 2,000rpm’s for 20 min per engine rebuild mechanic (he’s a local guy here in town called Jungle, very good at what he does). No it hasn’t run right but I moved on from just a engine rebuild to a total restoration and thought I’d fight that fight at the end and now I’m close to that end. I agree with you in that I think it’s the carb. I have good fuel pressure. I bought the carb on EBay. It’s supposed to be new but the box didn’t look that way. It was clean and the floats are at the correct level. It’s did this since the beginning, I’ve took apart and cleaned it several times with the same results. It acts like a accelerator pomp diaphragm but as far as can tell, these carbs don’t really have one like the older carbs do. Any ideas what else I could check on the carb (1403 Edelbrock)?
85e150- It will stay running well, have to pump it to get rpms up,yes a new rebuild, it was broken in at 2,000rpm’s for 20 min per engine rebuild mechanic (he’s a local guy here in town called Jungle, very good at what he does). No it hasn’t run right but I moved on from just a engine rebuild to a total restoration and thought I’d fight that fight at the end and now I’m close to that end. I agree with you in that I think it’s the carb. I have good fuel pressure. I bought the carb on EBay. It’s supposed to be new but the box didn’t look that way. It was clean and the floats are at the correct level. It’s did this since the beginning, I’ve took apart and cleaned it several times with the same results. It acts like a accelerator pomp diaphragm but as far as can tell, these carbs don’t really have one like the older carbs do. Any ideas what else I could check on the carb (1403 Edelbrock)?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Try spraying a little starter fluid around the intake and base of the carburetor with it running and listen for any jumps in RPMs.
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Bump the timing to 10* - 12* and see what that does for you.
If you find it kicks back when starting hot just turn it back till it will crank hot.
Does the dist. have vacuum advance, hard to see in picture, and if so where is it hooked up to?
It looks like you are running stock exh. manifolds what is after them?
Also check your fuel pressure as the Edel. carbs don't like a lot of psi.
Dave ----
If you find it kicks back when starting hot just turn it back till it will crank hot.
Does the dist. have vacuum advance, hard to see in picture, and if so where is it hooked up to?
It looks like you are running stock exh. manifolds what is after them?
Also check your fuel pressure as the Edel. carbs don't like a lot of psi.
Dave ----