Hello. I have acquired a set of military 16.5 X 35 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R mounted on their 24 bolt beadlock wheels. I also acquired a set of old school 16.5" aluminum turbine wheels. I want to move the tires to the aluminum wheels. Do the beadlocks change the shape or strength of the tire bead, or create any problems with getting the bead to seal on the aluminum wheels? Thanks. Kirt
76 Highboy.

 

Did you get the 36x12.50x16.5 tires Goodyear Wrangler R/T II? You know those are bias ply, drive like crap (IMO, when cold they will have flat spots and be out of round until they warm up), and have bad wet road manners. See bottom pics. As far as the bead locks, those are double beadlocks. And either have the magnesium 2 piece bolt together insert or the rubber one piece run flat inner tire. And those can be a PITA to get out of the tire. Like ratchet strap the tire to a telephone pole and use a truck to pull the insert out of the tire. No the beadlocks do not hurt the tire, they just clamp on the outer part of the bead . On the Turbine rims you know you will need Mag seat or long shank lug nuts with the washer due to the thick face of the rim.


Yes they look good. Beware that you need to put some grease or anti seize on the back face of the aluminium rim where it contacts the steel hub. Area prone to dissimilar metal corrosion. And be ready to torque your lug nuts OFTEN. The alum rims have a habit of loosening up lug nuts. Why?






See his tires?



No I am not saying NO to them or 16.5's on a truck. I bet the tire shop guys are probably gonna want to say NO. I have 6 brand new never mounted 36's, but BIAS ply tires suck if you ever drive on pavement. For off road trail ruck all the time, you will not notice the bias ply as much. Pure trail rig you can cut groove them and make them a pretty good tire.

 

Incase you are thinking about running the rims....they are 7" back spaced, will work as is on the back axle, but NOT the front. Unless....To use H1 rims on a Ford without recentering them. If you want to use them in a stock form, then you need a 76" wms. Stock single wheel rears are in the 67" range. So basically if you have a 60 front you need the dual wheel hubs. If you’ve got a 44 then get the front drw spacers from a 88-up chevy or 94-up dodge. For the rear get a dual wheel rearend from a pickup. Can’t be from a cab and chassis truck. Those have a 72" wms. Then you can get a 2" spacer. Another option is if you can find a drw 14b or d70 hd from a chevy you can swap the drw hubs for the srw hubs and you’d be set. Have to figure out brakes but with a disc swap it’s not hard.

Lug nuts info. Slotted (mags) or turbine/slots aluminium wheel lug nut info. Gorilla Automotive 75187 - Gorilla Lug Nuts
Summit racing • $10.99 Lug Nuts, Shank with Washer, 1/2 in. x 20 RH, Closed End, Chrome Plated Steel, Set of 4
Brand Gorilla Automotive
Manufacturer's Part Number 75187
Part Type Lug Nuts
Product Line Gorilla Lug Nuts
Summit Racing Part Number GOR-75187
Lug Nut Thread Size 1/2-20 RH in.
Lug Nut Seat Style Shank
Lug Nut Head Style Standard
Open End Design No
Lug Nut Shank Length (in) 1.000 in.
Lug Nut Shank Diameter (in) 0.740 in.
Washer Included Yes
Washer Shape Centered round
Washer Outside Diameter (in) 1.125 in.
Lug Nut Material Steel
Lug Nut Overall Length (in) 2.000 in.
Wrench Size Required (in) 7/8 in.
Lug Nut Finish Chrome
Quantity Sold as a set of 4.
The Gorilla #75187 lug nuts are the correct fit for your aluminum slotted mags.
They have the correct 1.000" shank length and .740" shank diameter to properly fit your wheel.
Be certain to buy the correct part number, Gorilla also makes the same lug nut in a .750" shank length and .685" shank diameter #73187, while these will "work"..
the wheel will not be properly centered.
correct: Gorilla 75187 Chrome Duplex Mag Lug Nuts 1 2 in x 20 RH | eBay
incorrect: Gorilla 73187 Chrome Std MAG Lug Nuts 1 2 in x 20 RH | eBay
You can also buy these locally at most parts stores.

 

No, the beadlock rims do not do anything to the bead of the tire. Disassemble the beadlock to take the tires off though- do not try and use a tire machine to stretch the tire over it as there is a runflat assembly inside the tire that will NOT go over the rim. You have to disassemble that after you have the tire off the rim.

 

So you can have 3 type of run flat insert to handle after you get the nuts off and the outer lock rings off. Here is a method to get the rubber one out.
The ones below are the newer 37X12.50X16.5 and are 80 lbs apiece (just the tire)


Rubber, PVC, magnesium run flat 2 piece bolts together.


1st gen HUMVEE Bias ply 36x12.50x16.5

2nd gen HUMVEE radial 37X12.50X16.5 HEAVY TIRE

3rd gen HUMVEE BFG Baja TA radial tire 37x12.50x16.5 find some of these and be way ahead of the game.

 

Thanks everybody. Yes, have 3rd Gen Humvee tires that are Goodyear MT/R. I am delegating the dismount - remount to local tire shop. Good review on lug nuts and other important tire stuff. I got a set of the turbine wheels like on the cover of the Haynes manual. Kind of excited to see what the truck looks like. They were in rough shape when I bought them, including being painted. I have spent massive hours rejuvenating them. There was definitely a learning curve to get a protocol worked out. Actually not done yet, but need to get them onto the truck for hunting season. I have stripped the paint and hand sanded the spokes down from 220 grit to a pretty nice shine at 600 grit. Still more to do. But later this winter. Kirt

 

Well then you got the best 37" of them all. I would like to see just what rims you have, post a pic when you can. Here is always an option on the fin rims, but since you went to all the work to get the paint off, might as well enjoy all your hard work. I got these already painted for a red truck....

 

Thats funny. The wheels I got had the same red paint in the background. I'll post a photo when they are on the truck.

 

Since you worked so hard on them you might want to coat them with something (vehicle wax ?) to help prevent surface corrosion. And definitely the mating surfaces of the back side of the rim to steel hub area. And the lug nuts shaft part, they sometimes cause the same dissimilar metal corrosion. Especially the washers. Remember to torque check often.

 

Ya, I earned a gold card from my auto parts store when I started buying products for that exact issue. I probably won't use a fraction of them. Thanks for the tip on the lug nuts. I had not thought of that spot for galvanic reaction.

 

Especially if your state uses the snow/ice melt salt chemical for the road. The lug nuts are chrome bodied, but the plain steel washers can be an issue. In the pic of my rim you can see where the steel washer caused some issues.

 

Joking aside, yes, our highway crews use salt and even worse, the liquid 'brine' that they apply pre-moisture every stinkin' night. I think we only had one or 2 snowfalls all of last winter, but they applied that crap every single night. It gums up and ruins every wiring harness plug on the chassis. I have moved towards driving a beater truck during the winter, just because of that. My theory is that a county commissioner lives somewhere in my area, and he/she wants clear roads for their commute, whatever it takes. You would think the tire companies could make a good snow tire for their flippin' electric cars.... Lifting wouldn't hurt, either.
If I am going to do justice to maintaining these wheels after all the work, they will need frequent application of the protective products. If they are handy, in the shop, I am more diligent in reapplying them.

 

I remember reading that some east coast guy spray old motor oil or some other oil concoction on the underneath of their trucks to fight the effects of snow/ice melt.

Ziebart use to drill holes in door edges and other areas and spray down the inside with the "Ziebart" treatment.

 

That's how my truck survived. The farmer who owned it sprayed the underside each fall with waste oil. It can be messy to work on (ask me about changing the gas tank) but it saved this truck!

 

Well, no test drive to work, tomorrow. The tire shop used tape weights and the calipers scraped them right off. So back to the tire shop tomorrow morning. I hope we have options, like traditional lead weights on the edge of the rim.

Thanks to FTE and 77&79, I grabbed a box of new Gorilla 75187's off my personal ford parts rack. So no problem, there. What torque should I use? 45 ft-lbs didn't seem tight enough to me.

As I expected, there is not much clearance on the front fender. My front leaves are a little flat. We have an old school spring shop here in Yakima. Should I get them rejuvinated, or upgrade to something better to give me a couple more inches? I'm pretty excited but want it right. She's always delivered me home and I don't want to ruin a perfect record. I'll do some searches, tonight.