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Did my PM (preventative maintenance) on the 2012 Raptor last week. Was looking on Youtube and they are saying that you have to vacuum the lube out because you can`t get the front cover off. One guy was able to get his cover off and found all kinds of sludge in there. So I decided that I was going to take mine off and do it right. After I got all the bolts off and drained it out I couldn`t get the cover down to clean it or put the sealant on. I was screwed. I looked and noticed that it was getting hung up on the corners sticking out on the bottom of the housing. So I got a hacksaw and trimmed them off and was able to get the cover down. Then I trial fitted it for installation and decided to grind down the cover lip about 1/2 way on the top drivers side to make it easier going back on once you put the diff sealant on. I let it dry overnight with the plug out, then filled it up in the morning.
Remember since 2004 Ford has used a oil that appears milky brown in these front axles. There is no actual water intrusion and its normal. I see people say the front axle was full of water but I have yet to see one that was. Normal oil condition for the front axle since 2004.
Did my PM (preventative maintenance) on the 2012 Raptor last week. Was looking on Youtube and they are saying that you have to vacuum the lube out because you can`t get the front cover off. One guy was able to get his cover off and found all kinds of sludge in there. So I decided that I was going to take mine off and do it right. After I got all the bolts off and drained it out I couldn`t get the cover down to clean it or put the sealant on. I was screwed. I looked and noticed that it was getting hung up on the corners sticking out on the bottom of the housing. So I got a hacksaw and trimmed them off and was able to get the cover down. Then I trial fitted it for installation and decided to grind down the cover lip about 1/2 way on the top drivers side to make it easier going back on once you put the diff sealant on. I let it dry overnight with the plug out, then filled it up in the morning.
Prompting me to do mine. Did you torque the bolts, or just snug them up?
When I did mine today, it came out without any altering. Getting it back in was a different story without messing up the silicone on the cover. I did cut the one corner on the housing and shaved the upper lip of the cover in key areas. Hopefully it will seal okay. I tried to check the torque on the bolts before I removed them, they seemed to torqued to 35 ft#, so that’s what I tightened them on reinstall. I only had 70k miles on the truck and the fluid seemed fine, but I’m glad to get all the old fluid and metal shavings out of there. Don’t think sucking the fluid out would have removed everything.
I know on the 09-10, you can unbolt the 2 big rack bolts to the frame and move the rack to the side a bit to gain clearance. On the 2011+ trucks, it takes me about 20 minutes to remove the electric rack and then remove the cover. That’s the easiest way in my opinion, but I also have a hoist and 20+ years of mechanic experience.
I know on the 09-10, you can unbolt the 2 big rack bolts to the frame and move the rack to the side a bit to gain clearance. On the 2011+ trucks, it takes me about 20 minutes to remove the electric rack and then remove the cover. That’s the easiest way in my opinion, but I also have a hoist and 20+ years of mechanic experience.
Yeah, after I was into it, I thought about trying that. But I didn’t want to start something I’d be sorry for, especially since I knew it came off with out doing anything. Just had to have the right “combination”. But thanks for the tip for when I need to do it again.
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