When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want to replace the factory sub and amp on my 2020 F350. It has the B&O system that sounds pretty bad so my question is can I remove the factory sub and amp and just plug a new one in or do I need to run bigger wires? I am gonna install one 10” 500 watt sub and a 800 watt amp. Thanks for the help!!
If you take speaker level input off the output to the OEM sub, you'd need 8 to 4 gauge power (depends on amp), ground, a 12/16 guage remote wire if your amp needs one, and 12 gauge to your subs.
I just installed a 10" shallow mount, no room for a regular 10" without relocating the seat. I used a line output controller and tapped in to my drivers side speaker wire in the B-Pillar. It's not completely finished in this picture but I mounted my amp on the left side of the box and the LC2i on the right side. I also installed the kit to release the drivers side rear seat back. Bought one off eBay for less than half the price of that name brand one everyone gets and it works great. Sounds great👍🏻.
I want to replace the factory sub and amp on my 2020 F350. It has the B&O system that sounds pretty bad so my question is can I remove the factory sub and amp and just plug a new one in or do I need to run bigger wires? I am gonna install one 10” 500 watt sub and a 800 watt amp. Thanks for the help!!
You can’t just remove the amp on B&O equipped vehicles without causing serious problems with everything in the center stack.
You’re going to need an interface to bypass the factory amp but be prepared because the interface is not cheap.
Go to the NAV-TV website and look for said interface for B&O equipped SD‘s.
After you get the interface, the skies the limit on what aftermarket amp or amps and sub you want to add.
You can’t just remove the amp on B&O equipped vehicles without causing serious problems with everything in the center stack.
You’re going to need an interface to bypass the factory amp but be prepared because the interface is not cheap. [...]
First paragraph is true. Second paragraph is not.
It is absolutely true that you can’t simply remove the B&O amp, as so much runs through it and it uses a digital BUS signal.
It is absolutely false that you need to bypass the factory amp to install a new sub and amp.
Just grab the sub signal out of the factory amp and use that. You’ll be fine.
If you want to upgrade all the other speakers, it starts getting messy and expensive. But, for a simple sub upgrade, it’s easy peasy. Leave all the factory stuff alone; install the new stuff downstream of the factory audio gear.
Searching is your friend as this has been documented several times here.
I couldn't find a place to put this so it goes here! Over several installs, I've always used a factory ground point or close to it for my amp installs. Everything worked well and I had no issues but...I have a 5 channel amp and the JL Audio Stealth Box under my seat, running 2 12" subs. As I said, sound was good; however, I recently did a new upgrade for speakers and decided to try the ground from the battery per one of the audio forums I follow. I used 4 gauge battery cable (not a good choice, not very flexible) but the difference was extraordinary. The level of bass the amp now puts out is amazing and the subs hit so hard I have to turn them down for modern music. So, I was wrong in other posts where I indicate using the factory ground is sufficient. If you are doing an upgrade with power, run a ground cable too.
It is absolutely true that you can’t simply remove the B&O amp, as so much runs through it and it uses a digital BUS signal.
It is absolutely false that you need to bypass the factory amp to install a new sub and amp.
Just grab the sub signal out of the factory amp and use that. You’ll be fine.
If you want to upgrade all the other speakers, it starts getting messy and expensive. But, for a simple sub upgrade, it’s easy peasy. Leave all the factory stuff alone; install the new stuff downstream of the factory audio gear.
Searching is your friend as this has been documented several times here.
I have a ‘18 Lariat with the Sony system. I replaced all the speakers and new sub. I believe I’m using the Idata Maestro to bypass factory amp. Here’s my question. I just bought a new King Ranch with the B&O system. Can I still use my Maestro to bypass or do I need a different setup now?
Yes, things get expensive when replacing all speakers. I got around 2,500 into my Lariat setup up, but she sounds great!
I just installed a 10" shallow mount, no room for a regular 10" without relocating the seat. I used a line output controller and tapped in to my drivers side speaker wire in the B-Pillar. It's not completely finished in this picture but I mounted my amp on the left side of the box and the LC2i on the right side. I also installed the kit to release the drivers side rear seat back. Bought one off eBay for less than half the price of that name brand one everyone gets and it works great. Sounds great👍🏻.
Can you share the details on your sub box?
Material used, size and also what sub and amp you used?
I have a ‘18 Lariat with the Sony system. I replaced all the speakers and new sub. I believe I’m using the Idata Maestro to bypass factory amp. Here’s my question. I just bought a new King Ranch with the B&O system. Can I still use my Maestro to bypass or do I need a different setup now? [...]
I'd recommend going to an F-150 forum. There's a lot more of those guys upgrading stereos and more opportunity to learn about what works and doesn't. There were definitely changes made between Sony and B&O. For example, I think with Sony, the front tweeters run direct from the head unit; for B&O, I believe the signal runs from HU all the way back to the amp/dsp in the rear and then back up to the front tweeters. Or maybe I have that backward. Either way, there are differences how these signals run and are processed.
For those reasons, it's not an easy answer to know if a Sony system piece of hardware or approach will translate to the newer B&O systems.
[QUOTE=dpayne7571;19632792]I have a ‘18 Lariat with the Sony system. I replaced all the speakers and new sub. I believe I’m using the Idata Maestro to bypass factory amp. Here’s my question. I just bought a new King Ranch with the B&O system. Can I still use my Maestro to bypass or do I need a different setup now?/QUOTE]
Doesn't look like this will work for your new truck. The 20 uses the A2B so you'll the nvTV product.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
