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Assuming you have determined that the e4od is mechanically broken there are basically two choices: ZF5 or M5OD-R2.
It is on its way out. I am going to run it as long as it will go. Ok now that we have 2 options. Which one is better? Pros cons. What vehicles have these transmissions?
ZF5 will be in 250/350, with I6/302/351w in them
M5OD-R2 will be in 150/Bronco's, with I6/302
I am assuming the ZF5 is going to be heavier duty being in the 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks.
If I put this transmission in. What issues am I going to run into with computers? Also how will it do on the highway? What are we looking at for top speed. I have 3.55 gears.
I am assuming the ZF5 is going to be heavier duty being in the 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks.
If I put this transmission in. What issues am I going to run into with computers? Also how will it do on the highway? What are we looking at for top speed. I have 3.55 gears.
Also what about the pedal assembly?
You will need to get a manual trans ECM for it to run right. 5th gear ratio is about the same as 4th in the E4OD, so highway will be about the same.
You'll need pedals, starter, flywheel, clutch, clutch hydraulics, floor plate, shifter boot (inner and outer), trans crossmember, and different length driveshafts.
The ZF is heavier duty but 1st is a granny gear so it's essentially a 4-spd. The M5OD has 5 usable gears and might be nicer if you don't move a lot of heavy loads.
I will be getting a camper that weighs about 2,000 to 2,300 pounds. I dont know if that matters much. I also have a 16 foot landscapi g trailer for my business. Probly weighs about 3-4 thousand pounds loaded.
Could the M5od do this kind of stuff or would the zf5 be better?
I will be getting a camper that weighs about 2,000 to 2,300 pounds. I dont know if that matters much. I also have a 16 foot landscapi g trailer for my business. Probly weighs about 3-4 thousand pounds loaded.
Could the M5od do this kind of stuff or would the zf5 be better?
The M5OD would handle the load OK assuming you keep it full of clean fluid and drive/shift it responsibly. People like to rag on them for supposedly being weak but most of the actual failures I've read about (I've never actually personally seen one fail) were due to loss of fluid. However, with 2000 lbs in the bed and 4000 lbs trailer, I know I would prefer the lower 1st and reverse of the ZF when maneuvering the trailer or starting from a stop on a hill. Basically most would find the M5OD preferable for a daily driven commuter and the ZF preferable for a truck that hauls loads most of the time. If this is going in an F250 or 350, realize that Ford didn't use the M5OD in those from the factory for a reason.
I believe you can keep the factory MLPS connected, with the factory ECU, and make sure it is in the N position. If that works, then you shouldn't need a manual ECU.
I believe you can keep the factory MLPS connected, with the factory ECU, and make sure it is in the N position. If that works, then you shouldn't need a manual ECU.
It's going to set all kinds of codes, many of which will turn on the CEL. And it may put the engine in a failsafe mode.
The M5OD would handle the load OK assuming you keep it full of clean fluid and drive/shift it responsibly. People like to rag on them for supposedly being weak but most of the actual failures I've read about (I've never actually personally seen one fail) were due to loss of fluid. However, with 2000 lbs in the bed and 4000 lbs trailer, I know I would prefer the lower 1st and reverse of the ZF when maneuvering the trailer or starting from a stop on a hill. Basically most would find the M5OD preferable for a daily driven commuter and the ZF preferable for a truck that hauls loads most of the time. If this is going in an F250 or 350, realize that Ford didn't use the M5OD in those from the factory for a reason.
This is awesome information guys! Thanks! I had no idea that this was possible. Sounds like I will be going with the Zf5. This is going into a 1995 f150 4x4 so should be a great combo for what I am doing.
I do not now much about computers at all. Is there some sort of delete that I need to install so the computer does not go crazy? I think sombody mentioned something. But not super in depth.
That's the correct model transmission but the wrong bellhousing. The ZF had three different integral bellhousing options: small block 4.9/5.0/5.8, big block 7.5 gas, and 7.3 diesel. Obviously you need the small block bellhousing version. The official name of the transmission you're looking for is ZF S5-42 or S5-47. The -42 ran from 1988 to 1995 and is far more common. The -47 ran from 1995-1997 and is supposedly slightly stronger (which is debatable considering they're nearly identical inside). Either will work for your purpose and definitely don't get hung up on trying to find a -47 when it's only going in a smallblock F150.
Rebuilt ZF's are widely available from multiple sources for $1300ish, but usually have a $1000 or so core charge, so it really helps if you can find a core (or usable transmission) for a couple hundred at the junkyard. You'll need to source the pedals, floor plate, crossmember, and possibly the ECM from the junkyard, so you should start looking if you're serious about doing this swap.
The easiest way to handle the computer is to simply swap one from the same year truck with a manual transmission. The 5.8 F150 didn't come with a manual in 1995, so you'll need to look for a computer from a 1995 (possibly 1994-1997 will work) F250 or F350 with a manual transmission.
This isn't going to be cheap unless you find a complete rusted out donor truck or something. Figure $1300 for a trans, $100 for pedals, floor plate, and crossmember, $100 for a computer, $500 for flywheel, clutch, starter, and hydraulics, and $300 to modify driveshafts. You're looking at $2000-$2500 before it's done, and over $3000 if you can't find a core and have to eat a core charge. You can get a really nice rebuild on the E4OD for that kinda money. Not trying to talk you out it, but it's a bunch of parts to find and pay for. Like I said earlier, if you can find a complete donor for $1000, you're way ahead money wise.
That's the correct model transmission but the wrong bellhousing. The ZF had three different integral bellhousing options: small block 4.9/5.0/5.8, big block 7.5 gas, and 7.3 diesel. Obviously you need the small block bellhousing version. The official name of the transmission you're looking for is ZF S5-42 or S5-47. The -42 ran from 1988 to 1995 and is far more common. The -47 ran from 1995-1997 and is supposedly slightly stronger (which is debatable considering they're nearly identical inside). Either will work for your purpose and definitely don't get hung up on trying to find a -47 when it's only going in a smallblock F150.
Rebuilt ZF's are widely available from multiple sources for $1300ish, but usually have a $1000 or so core charge, so it really helps if you can find a core (or usable transmission) for a couple hundred at the junkyard. You'll need to source the pedals, floor plate, crossmember, and possibly the ECM from the junkyard, so you should start looking if you're serious about doing this swap.
The easiest way to handle the computer is to simply swap one from the same year truck with a manual transmission. The 5.8 F150 didn't come with a manual in 1995, so you'll need to look for a computer from a 1995 (possibly 1994-1997 will work) F250 or F350 with a manual transmission.
This isn't going to be cheap unless you find a complete rusted out donor truck or something. Figure $1300 for a trans, $100 for pedals, floor plate, and crossmember, $100 for a computer, $500 for flywheel, clutch, starter, and hydraulics, and $300 to modify driveshafts. You're looking at $2000-$2500 before it's done, and over $3000 if you can't find a core and have to eat a core charge. You can get a really nice rebuild on the E4OD for that kinda money. Not trying to talk you out it, but it's a bunch of parts to find and pay for. Like I said earlier, if you can find a complete donor for $1000, you're way ahead money wise.
Great info. Thanks so much! Sounds expensive. We will see how much the guys quote me to do the repairs first. If it is around $2000 then I will consider the swap for sure.
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