Take a look

https://bitterrootdiesel.com/product...ke-v4-full-kit

 

No switching valves.

Separate/ redundant fuel systems. The Vegistroke replicates the stock PSD fuel system with another tank, pump, filters, etc. Fuels are separated by check valves. Turn on VO pump and turn off diesel pump and vice versa to switch.

By feeding D2 to one end of the heads and VO to the other end, we can rapidly purge the VO out of heads by flushing diesel through the heads back to VO tank.

 

So you only run "one" return line and its to your vo tank?

 

Yes, with a deadhead design.

 

I recently acquired a 1985 Econoline diesel "Club Wagon" with dual tanks. I would like to run WVO in the rear tank, and diesel in the front, starting and shutting down on the diesel.

I have been driving old Mercedes diesels for almost 15 years on WELL FILTERED WVO, with about 5% gasoline in the main tank, i.e. NOT converted, with few problems. This only works for me in weather above freezing. I have logged about 80,000 miles on each of two Mercedes using this method. One of them started running poorly, a 1985 300D. So as per a suggestion in the Mercedes forum, i took out the injectors, cleaned a bit of crud off the needle tips, and soaked the rings in Marvel Mystery oil for about 5 days, and she ran much better, and 2 years later, is still running great. The other Mercedes, a 1981 240D, has never even had the injectors out (on my watch), and still runs great.

The Ford does not seem to be switching tanks, stuck on the front tank. Wondering if there is a fuel pump in each tank, one of which could be bad, or if the tank selector valve might be stuck. Is there a way to unstick the valve, or if it is to be replaced, is there a replacement unit that is more friendly to WVO?

Thanks for any advice!

 

How will you be heating the WVO? You want the WVO to be about 160*F at the injectors to get good atomization and prevent coking.

The stock 6-way Pollak valve does not tolerate VO or heat very well and using one of these valves and sharing the stock filter with both fuels contaminates the diesel tank with VO every time you switch back to diesel.

No pumps in the tanks...

Using (2) 3-port valves and separate filters for VO and D2 allows you to stagger the return fuel valve and return the VO/D2 blend to the veggie tank and let’s you store and start the engine on pure D2. Hydraforce valves are arguably the best/most robust option.

A 3rd 3-port valve can be used to ‘loop’ the return when on VO and increase the heat the fuel is exposed to (instead of returning fuel to the tank.

A simple tube-in-hose heated fuel line for the VO supply and return combined with a loped return, heated fuel pickup and heated filter is probably adequate heat in all but the coldest climates.

Good luck!

 

On the Mercedes i use no heat other than preheating the oil in the coldest weather by storing it behind the wood stove and with a magnetic stick on heater behind the tank. Once the engine is warmed up, the oil seems to be heated enough by the time it gets to the injector nozzles.

Never thought about the return WVO contaminating the diesel tank in the 2 tank system of the Ford.

My van seems to have two fuel filters. One up under the hood with a schrader valve, and one below bolted to the frame just inboard of the front left wheel.. It has newer looking clamps, so i'm wondering if it is something the previous owner added.

 

The 2nd filter makes the contamination even worse. You’ll basically never get all of the VO out of those filters before shutting the engine down. This oil will polymerize in the IP and injectors and eventually take them out.

The steel fuel tank will also get poly’ed up and cause problems eventually.

You can build TIH on the cheap using 1/2” pipe tees, 3” nipples cut in half and modified 3/8” compression to 1/2” NPT adapters. This allows you to run aluminum tubing (~$1/ft) inside 3/4” heater hose. The tubing, heater hose and fittings cost less than good fuel hose. (You want 30R9 or equal ‘viton lined’ fuel hose for longevity).

I kinda get people not wanting to spend $$ on this stuff, but it’s just paying for some fuel up front. Your ROI to build a reliable, long lasting VO conversion that you can run 100% ‘free fuel’ (after warm-up) in ANY weather - is likely less than 10k miles of diesel. I regularly spend more money on 5k mile oil changes than I do on diesel for my F350. I converted my truck in 2005 - 280k miles on it since then. I’ve converted several dozen vehicles since then for others.

The ‘economy’ TIH fittings are on the right here. The aluminum tubing has wire loom on it here.



This is how I do the coolant wrap for the spin-on fuel filters I use.

 

hey binuya
i just grabbed an old 7.3 idi off of a guy and am wondering where to start for making safe fuel for the old horse. I understand it needs to be filtered, but what's the best way for all year round use?
I plan to do some sort of aluminum tank in the bed with manual valves for return and feed between the 3 tanks on my 93 f250.
How would you recommend heating the stuff?

 

All year use would include a heated tank pickup for cold climates.

 

You need at least (2) 3-port switching valves. We prefer hydraforce brand spool valves.

One valve will select the supply fuel tank and the other selects the return fuel tank. We do this instead of the stock 6-port Pollac valve so we can stagger the return valve after running VO and return some diesel to the VO tank instead of switching both valves at the same time and contaminating the diesel tank every time we switch back to diesel.

You’ll want separate filters for D2 and VO for the same reason. The goal is to shut the engine down with 100% diesel in the IP and injectors or over time you will gum up and wreck them.

Heating the VO side with a coolant heated pickup, tube-in-hose heated fuel lines (aluminum tubing inside heater hose), a coolant-wrapped filter and flat plate heat exchanger is a good plan. You can greatly increase fuel heat by adding a 3rd 3-port valve near the VO tank. This valve will select return-to-tank or return to the suction line from tank to engine (‘looped return’). Looping the return will send the heated fuel you pulled from the tank and heated with TIH, FPHE, etc back to the engine instead of dumping it back in the tank while driving. We just need to return to tank for purging.

 

After 16 years, I have finally moved on from this project. I donated the truck to habitat for humanity today with all the instructions on how to keep greasin’, but I doubt they will.

lots of good trips, made some greasin friends and learned a ton about fixing things myself. I learned theres no room for emotions in mechanics. And I saved a lot of money.

I still have 400 gallons of good oil I need to get rid of if anyone is near Frankfort KY, text me 592-320-3579.