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I have a 2011 ford f250 crew cab owned it since new, have noticed rust on the cross rails of the underbody of the bed .Is there any thing that can be done to fix this or like some kind of filler that can be put in there that gets hard. the truck bed looks great on the outside and lower side. I'm not that knowledgeable about this area so any expert help would be great, THANKS
In short, it's either cut out all the rusted structure and weld in new or IMHO what may be much more cost effective is to purchase a use rear clip and weld it in.
Body needs to come off. Remove the rusted parts and replace them. Only way to ensure you get it right. If more then one cross member, do them one at a time.
Just this week did a late 80s F-350 truck bed lift and flip (frame off, getting a Cummins 5.9, it's in the blasting booth in my big **** barn, dark, covered in black chit (coal furnace blasting chit) so pictures aren't good, can't show the dolly option) --- total one man operation:
(1) Build a 2 x 6 dolly to hold the "flipped" bed. Size it height/width wise to fit the inside of your bed (I also glued old carpet to the points where the dolly contacts the bed. I used 2x6 PT and 8" solid / all terrain swivel casters (Powertec Industrial 17051 casters off amazon - believe they're rated 500 lbs/ea and cost $20/ea)
(2) Mount two 2x6 PT (running 12'- 18" longer at rear of bed ) to bed top rail (secured with 9" galvanized bolts running down through the bed's top rail tie down locations. Offset these so there is overhang on the inside of bed side (for bolt mounting locations for step (3) and (4) below.
(3) Add a third 2x6 PT at the front of the bed interconnecting the two 2x6s in step (2)
(4) Add a fourth 2x6 PT at the center of bed interconnecting the two 2x6s in step (2) Pull bed straight up using this lift location (I use one of my tractors) -- make sure you have this 2X6 positioned as close to the center of gravity as possible. Then set bed on ground
(5) Reattach chains /hoists/slings to the 2x6 in step (3), lift bed off ground on the pivot point created by the extra long 2x6s in step (2)
(6) Back tractor up, gently lowering bed (rotated at its pivot point) on new dolly in step (1)
You can also SKIP the dolly entirely by mounting the swivel casters on add'l 2x6s interconnecting the 2x6s attached to the top rails of the bed --- simply make these 10" wider on each side of the bed and mount your casters before the flip (upside down) at the 10" extensions (outside the bed). Picture below is one I did a couple of weeks ago (Dodge W350 one-ton) with this "semi-permanent" mount. I use the same extended 2x6s off the back of the bed as a rotation point --- another one-man bed lift and flip operation.
I'm also experimenting with a one-ton Gantry Crane ( just bought one out the door for $500 @ HF) in my other barn (since my lifts are tied up) to use to pull beds, cabs, etc......
I have a 2011 ford f250 crew cab owned it since new, have noticed rust on the cross rails of the underbody of the bed .Is there any thing that can be done to fix this or like some kind of filler that can be put in there that gets hard. the truck bed looks great on the outside and lower side. I'm not that knowledgeable about this area so any expert help would be great, THANKS
If your in Nj, Pa, De or Va ill replace your bed crossmembers
get rid of the rust properly and take care of any rust on the frame.
Shoot a text
609-864-9090 Grant
Seeing where that rust is, 100% chance that the floor above that heat shield is about to hole. Been there, Done that on a 2012. I have the rebuild thread in the up to 16 Superduty section. Took 4 weeks and a LOT of work but had a nearly new bed that was rust free and well protected when done.
