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I'm changing out my timing set on my 400. Looking for recommendations. This is a farm truck so not looking to sync a lot of money, but want a quality set.
Is Napa a good source? Would the sprocket still be fiber vs steel?
How do I know if the timing set is taking out the 4 degree retard?
If you buy a set from just about any parts store, they will all have the factory 4° retard setting. It's been a LONG time since I messed with 351/400 motors, so last I knew the only way to get the cam timing straight up is to buy an adjustable set with multiple keyways and you will need a degree wheel to verify everything.
I'm looking at Summit Racing now. They have the multi keyed sets. What I haven't been able to clear up, is whether I can use the stock cam, or I need to change that as well.
Well, you'd have the degree wheel from verifying the timing set. So you should be able to get the measurements of what it will do with the stock cam. Valve lift won't change.
Kinda what I read as well. The old saying used to be all you have to do to wake up the Ford 400 to get the cam straight up, add headers and a 4bbl intake.....and it's a completely different animal!
Just go to NAPA and buy a timing set for a 70 or 71 351C the 351C,351M an 400 all use the same part. If the set they pull out has the timing dot in line with the crank key it's straight up not retarded. I believe it is PN,
NTP 203014
Just go to NAPA and buy a timing set for a 70 or 71 351C the 351C,351M an 400 all use the same part. If the set they pull out has the timing dot in line with the crank key it's straight up not retarded. I believe it is PN,
NTP 203014
How can you tell if its set at 0 and not -4 degrees? Straight up is how I have the old set to pull off.
I'm not trying to be a smart a'''', but have you ever replaced a timing chain set before?
If the timing mark on the crank sprocket is lined up with the crank keyway slot it's straight up, if it offset to the left side of the keyway slot it's retarded.
If you haven't backed off all the rockers I would recommend that you do that before you start this operation. Your life will be a lot easier without having to fight those valve springs.
I'm not trying to be a smart a'''', but have you ever replaced a timing chain set before?
If the timing mark on the crank sprocket is lined up with the crank keyway slot it's straight up, if it offset to the left side of the keyway slot it's retarded.
If you haven't backed off all the rockers I would recommend that you do that before you start this operation. Your life will be a lot easier without having to fight those valve springs.
No offense taken. This is my first time changing out a timing chain. So I'm learning. Appreciate your help!
If the timing mark on the crank sprocket is lined up with the crank keyway slot it's straight up, if it offset to the left side of the keyway slot it's retarded.
This is not entirely true. Most of the timing sets you can buy have the 2 dots system. Go auto parts store and buy any brand replacement set for a 351m/400. They will have 2 dots. When you install the dots in alignment, the cam will be 4 degrees retarded...yet the dots are aligned. True if you buy an early set, it's possible to get a true straight up set, but chances are small you will get the correct set. Buy the adjustable set and learn to use a degree wheel.
This is not entirely true. Most of the timing sets you can buy have the 2 dots system. Go auto parts store and buy any brand replacement set for a 351m/400. They will have 2 dots. When you install the dots in alignment, the cam will be 4 degrees retarded...yet the dots are aligned. True if you buy an early set, it's possible to get a true straight up set, but chances are small you will get the correct set. Buy the adjustable set and learn to use a degree wheel.
Only true for performance timing sets and those have at least three positions. The stock replacement set for a pre 72 will not be retarded. He doesn't need a degree wheel he just needs a shop manual.
TDC is determined on #1 cyl. That timing set is straight up by the way. You really need a shop manual of some sort. Did you remove #1 cyl. spark plug and bring it up on compression stroke and stop it with the balancer timing mark on Zero? Before you took it apart?