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I have mine out of my 60 f250 right now as there is some work to do one the passenger side. There was an I shaped cut and the battery tray was swapped into the folded down section. I'm planning on dropping it so I want to avoid any clearance/turning interference issues. The ones I have are in good shape so if you need any of it templated to repair rotten ones or get some dimensions feel free to message me. I'll post some pics of what I mean about the battery tray thing.
Should be a good view of the front inner fenders wells. The passenger side is going to get bent back and tacked in stitches so it should a fairly straightforward repair. Driver inner side Driver outer side Passenger inside Passenger outer side Battery bend up box repair.
Last edited by DropTheHammer; Aug 23, 2020 at 10:32 PM.
Reason: Adding photos
Guess I am not too bright on some days. Was talking about the rear wheel wells. I have the front ones done needed very little work. Had to take a dolly and hammer and tap the bolt holes to get them smooth. The rear ones need help the worst.. They were too rotted out to try and patch them and make the look decent. Thought of buying a tub kit from speedway motors. The better kits are on the pricey side for me. Not very good at using the english wheel yet. Then I thought I could use the rear wheel wells I took off a uni bodied truck bed. Almost the same width and height and they are heavy duty.. So thats what i will do since i have a plan. Sorry I did not get back sooner. Fixing mower decks and that takes time also. Later All
Ive used (for motorcycles, so narrowed for fronts or split and add fill strip to widen) the trailer fenders that they sell at Tractor Supply or another farm type supply place. They don't have the sides but thats just flat metal fill sheet. If you need to extend them you have a a radius (no English wheel or pinch roller? No Problem! ) then you can tack the curve of width add on strip. If you've got a welder and some time its not too hard of a task, patience and measuring. I look forward to what you come up with I'm going to have to do some bed work and deal with what I'm guessing will be minimal cnotch clearancing so the curve of that has me curious if I can arc instead of box up the step in the frame that will be there. Inside of arc to the sky so it rolls up at either side of the step.
Never thought of that angle , good idea. Thats why it pays off to get other ideas. I wondered why Ford did not make them styled after the pick up wheel wells instead of the ones they used on cars. My buddy worked at Ford and said never try to second guess what Ford does. Thanks
Got a start on the rear wheel wells. Using uni body wheel wells that I cut off another truck. Had to drill out the spot welds and take off old metal beds strips. Weld the holes shut and trim about 2 inches off of the well. Make a new inner well panel and weld it together. As far as I got. I used what I have and will make it work. The new sheet metal will be on the out side facing the body. Right or wrong thats what I am doing. Will do more pics as I go along.
I have a 63 uni 250. A guy sold me the 62 uni truck. Only 2 doors , the bed and cab. They took sheet metal and covered the rust and bad spots and filled it in with filler and pitch over the top. Did not waste alot. At least I got some use out of it.
