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I think Brian makes a good point. I had a charging system problem with my truck for years. The generator and regulator would seem to be good, but after driving for an extended time, the gauge would go erratic and then indicate a lack of charging. We tried regulator adjustments, different regulators, different generators, new wiring, added grounding wires--all to no avail. Ultimately the problem was found to be one of the circuit breakers incorporated into the headlight switch getting hot and failing. In the end, it was a very cheap and easy fix. Good luck.
I think Brian makes a good point. I had a charging system problem with my truck for years. The generator and regulator would seem to be good, but after driving for an extended time, the gauge would go erratic and then indicate a lack of charging. We tried regulator adjustments, different regulators, different generators, new wiring, added grounding wires--all to no avail. Ultimately the problem was found to be one of the circuit breakers incorporated into the headlight switch getting hot and failing. In the end, it was a very cheap and easy fix. Good luck.
Jim
The circuit breaker can really fool you. You mess around and adjust things and check things and suddenly it works again and you try to figure out which thing you banged on or fiddled with was the problem. Actually the circuit breaker has just cooled off and reset itself.
Brian, you describe my experience exactly! Drop a new battery in--everything is great--only to find a week later on a little longer drive that it isn't. Your new battery is dead, and you are back to square one in your quest to solve the charging system problem. My troubles were costly and frustration, but the solution cheap and easy. Hopefully the PO will find a simple solution to his engine shutting down.
To confuse things more, since the thread starter's wife drives this truck and it's a 302 Ford motor, in the long run it might be worth converting the ignition system to a stock Ford Duraspark II setup. There are pre-made wire harnesses available for the conversion. Painless Wiring even offers one. Then the OEM type components, distributor, ignition module, and ignition coil can be obtained from a parts store like Napa Auto Parts.
One easy diagnostic for these various wiring and circuit issues is to put a multi-meter in the truck. Then go for the test drive. When it dies leave the ignition ON. Pop the hood and measure the voltage on the + terminal of the coil. That should be 12V (recall no ballast resister and the ignition switch just puts 12V on the coil.) If it is a lower voltage, then you have some wiring problem external to the ignition system.
The Pertronix will operate with lower voltage, but at some lower voltage it will just stop working. I just don't know what the minimum voltage is.
Another good thing to do is to put the meter on the + terminal cold and verify that switching the ignition ON/OFF a few times does, in fact, switch battery voltage ON/OFF the coil.
Not sure about 8v...I had an alternator go bad on a road trip once and my 69 mustang with a 302 and the fame thrower II electronic ignition started acting strange (surging, loosing power, etc.) and we made it to a parts store took some initial measurements before figuring out the alt was failing and on the coil and the battery and I was measuring ~9.4 volts.
Put a new alternator in, the parts store hooked a fast charger on the battery while I was doing that and once we measured 10v I tried starting it and it ran normal so we took off again and the car ran fine and charged fine.
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