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Hi All....My E-150 XLT Club Wagon 5.0 EFI has only 65k miles and has sat around a lot. Quit running awhile back. My friend got it running but left me with a few problems.
1-A 2.5 amp parasitic battery drain which turned out to be a bad Voltage Regulator....replaced that, ok now.
2-Rough/slight-surging idle.
3-Long cranking to start.
I'm too old to do much work myself but I can still analyze. I could have two separate troubles but am now looking to see if maybe one trouble could be giving both #2 & #3 indications. Thinking maybe ruptured diaphragm in Fuel Pressure Regulator, thereby sucking fuel into vacuum line during idle, and relieving fuel pressure during shutdown. Any thoughts?
Regards,
Chuck
Last edited by CABGx3; Aug 18, 2020 at 10:20 AM.
Reason: Left out Van description
A bad check valve at the pump can cause that. Only good way is to stick a gauge on the fuel rail and see if it holds pressure or it drops as it sits. Check fuel filter. What was wrong and what was done to resolve that no run issue?
Thanks for the response Spaznaut.
Fuel filter replaced couple years ago but almost no driving since. All three fuel pumps and both tanks also replaced at same time but rear tank pump has stopped running for some reason.
To fix recent non start replaced both battery cable ends, starter solenoid, fuel pump relay, coolant temp sensor MAP device and drained side tank and put in 5 gal new gas.
Since then I replaced shorted out Voltage Regulator.
Don't have fuel pressure gauge but surely the pressure is leaking off somewhere due to the long cranking starts....either the fuel pump, injectors, or Fuel Pressure Regulator.. It does start immediately if I shut engine off and restart quickly.
Codes very "if-fy" due to no smooth idle but did give 11 on KOEO and 33 and 46 on KOER.
Thanks for the response Spaznaut.
Fuel filter replaced couple years ago but almost no driving since. All three fuel pumps and both tanks also replaced at same time but rear tank pump has stopped running for some reason.
To fix recent non start replaced both battery cable ends, starter solenoid, fuel pump relay, coolant temp sensor MAP device and drained side tank and put in 5 gal new gas.
Since then I replaced shorted out Voltage Regulator.
Don't have fuel pressure gauge but surely the pressure is leaking off somewhere due to the long cranking starts....either the fuel pump, injectors, or Fuel Pressure Regulator.. It does start immediately if I shut engine off and restart quickly.
Codes very "if-fy" due to no smooth idle but did give 11 on KOEO and 33 and 46 on KOER.
I've been chasing what turned out to be a bad in-tank pump in my 1990 460 e350 for about 4 years now.
You can get a cheap analog fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight and it comes with numerous adapters and should hook up to the schrader valve on your fuel rail, assuming your model has one (it probably does).
Is your engine fuel injected? If so, does it have 2 fuel pumps, a high pressure one on the rail under the driver's seat and another in the tank? Be aware that the high pressure pump will work, most of the time, even if the in-tank pump fails, resulting in fuel starvation problems.
My fuel pump relay burned up just before the in-tank pump itself burned up - I suspect the relay went first as the pump was going bad.
If you need to replace the in-tank pump, don't use Airtex.
I answered this post the other day but I guess the "Ether Gods" got it.
To repeat, thanks for your input Maillemaker.
To answer your questions: Yes indeed my 5.0 EFI engine is fuel injected. And, my van actually has THREE fuel pumps...one in each tank and one on the left rail.
That's certainly a Harbor Freight tool but it doesn't include any sort of bleed off fitting or attachment which is pretty much a safety necessity when working with a pressurized fuel system, most especially if testing on a hot engine.
Thanks everyone for all your helpful comments about pressure gauges etc., but I was really hopeing for some pro or con thoughts about the Fuel Pressure Regulator and if it might have a ruptured diaphram.
Only way to know is either just replace it or find some way to monitor your fuel pressure.
I don't know what it's like on a 5.0, but on my 460 it's a pretty good pain in the butt. The reason is the 3 socket headed cap screws that hold it in place on the fuel rail come up from the bottom. You need a tiny ratchet that holds an allen type of key to get at them. And I had to remove my coil bracket and the bracket that holds the EGR solenoid to be able to reach up from inside the van along the valve cover to get at it. It wasn't easy. Might be easier on a 5.0
The fuel pressure regulator is pretty easy to use. Bleed the fuel pressure through the schrader valve, screw on the gauge with the right hose/adapter, and fire it up.
Yes, there is no bleed valve accessible when it comes time to remove it, so just let the engine cool off, put a shop rag around the schrader valve, and unscrew the hose. The little bit of gas that comes out will be soaked up by the rag.
JWA, HF sells a couple of other FPT kits that do have a bleed off fitting but for the money, some parts stores have them as a loaner tool.
CABGx3, Like others have said, you will need a gauge to test the fuel pressure and FPR. The FPR is easy to get to on our 5.0 engines. I replaced mine 3 years ago. Without the gauge though you would only be throwing parts at the problem when you need to identify the problem. (coming from someone who is about to replace all of their sensors!)
Once more....I appreciate all the comments here but I do not want to get a FPG and check the pressure. I already know there is bleed-off because of the short crank hot starts and long crank cold starts. I would like to hear from someone who has experienced a ruptured diaphragm on a FPR. Thanks.
A ruptured diaphram in the FPR will leak fuel out the vacuum port when the pump is running.
Loss of fuel pressure overnight isn't uncommon and nothing to worry about if the pump/s quickly build and maintain pressure during operation, pressure loss can happen at the in-tank pumps, at the switch valve(dual function resovoir) on the frame, or at the injectors but that usually results in wet spark plug, oil that smells of gas, and black smoke or otherwise obviously rich exhaust.
Much appreciate your posts Conanski, they are soothing to my psyche. Your use of terms like "isn't uncommon" and "usually" exudes a wealth of experience, and I thank you very much for those "having been there" comments..
A lot of water has passed since I started this thread. All was working sorta acceptable and I was running a half tank of "SeaFoamForOldFolks" through the forward tank when I decided to get cute and switch to the rear tank with it's very old gas. Problem was the Fuel Tank Selector Switch was bad and no power to rear tank. Reservoir ran dry and engine quit....never to start again until this evening my friend came over and worked his magic. All he really did was spray some carb cleaner and got it to run a bit on that....then tested one of the injectors for pulsing...and disconnected the fuel filter and let both tanks spit a bit of fuel out. Now the durn thing will start and run on command! We'll see what the morning brings. Oh, BTW the FPR seems to check out ok....that was my original fear.
