New Oil Cooler
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
New Oil Cooler
Hi,
Just doing a "backyard rebuild" on a 7.3 IDI. Thinking I'd replace the oil cooler as a precaution. I see them from about $150.00 to $400.00. Should I go with the lower priced one or are they junk.
Thanks!
Just doing a "backyard rebuild" on a 7.3 IDI. Thinking I'd replace the oil cooler as a precaution. I see them from about $150.00 to $400.00. Should I go with the lower priced one or are they junk.
Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
Unless your system was leaking, I'd keep your original oil cooler. New orings and gaskets would be a prudent investment though.
If you are worried about your oil cooler having a leak, you could use my DIY cooler tester method: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/eng...essure-tester/
If you are worried about your oil cooler having a leak, you could use my DIY cooler tester method: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/eng...essure-tester/
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Yeah,
It's more about not wanting to assemble a leak into my rebuild. I don't have any history on this particular engine or oil cooler. If I assemble the engine and find I have coolant in the oil I won't know if it is the heads or the cooler. Just thinking it could eliminate some questions by installing a new one.
It's more about not wanting to assemble a leak into my rebuild. I don't have any history on this particular engine or oil cooler. If I assemble the engine and find I have coolant in the oil I won't know if it is the heads or the cooler. Just thinking it could eliminate some questions by installing a new one.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
Yeah,
It's more about not wanting to assemble a leak into my rebuild. I don't have any history on this particular engine or oil cooler. If I assemble the engine and find I have coolant in the oil I won't know if it is the heads or the cooler. Just thinking it could eliminate some questions by installing a new one.
It's more about not wanting to assemble a leak into my rebuild. I don't have any history on this particular engine or oil cooler. If I assemble the engine and find I have coolant in the oil I won't know if it is the heads or the cooler. Just thinking it could eliminate some questions by installing a new one.
99 out of 100 times, oil in the coolant comes from a leaky Oil Cooler. A while back, I had the misfortune of being the 1 out of a 100 that had a cracked block leading to my oil-in-coolant issue. I replaced everything hoping it wasn't the block. in the end, the only thing that fixed it was a rebuild 7.3.
I'd have to wager it's more likely to have coolant in the crankcase from a cracked block or HG.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 170
Likes: 10
From: South Carolina
Don't worry, and just get the rebuild kit. I was hesitant about doing mine, but re sealing is the easy part. Getting it in and out while it's in the truck is the hassle.
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Fleet Owner
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Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
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IF you insist on replacing it use an OEM replacement stay away from Dorman they are substandard IMHO
Personally I always just hot tanked them and pressure check and NDI on the end caps and call em good.... be sure there is no pitting on the 'O' Ring Lands that also goes for the Aluminum Headers too.
Personally I always just hot tanked them and pressure check and NDI on the end caps and call em good.... be sure there is no pitting on the 'O' Ring Lands that also goes for the Aluminum Headers too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
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From: Nevada
The IDI and Power Stroke look similar, but are not the same.
They will not interchange. When I replaced mine I did a lot of
searching. PS were cheaper at that time but not listed for a IDI.
Parts Geek and Rock Auto had a Motor Craft remanufactured
one at that time, can`t find one now. Both in the $300 range,
don`t remember who I went with, but there were no gaskets or
O Rings in the box when it came. Contacted them and they said
the picture was a generic one, but were were on their listing.
So then I had to search to find the parts, which ended up costing
more.
I used Diesel Hub`s tutorial as a guide.
https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenanc...il-cooler.html
The 4 bolts on the front end are a challenge to get to. I finally
pulled the L/F wheel, inner fender, Battery, coolant bottle etc...
then the bolts are looking right at you. Little more work, but
then 30 years of grit. grime dirt and etc... got cleaned up puttin
it all back together.
I are an expert now after doing one. I agree oil in the coolant
bottle and Radiator are a indicator of a OC Leaking.
It`s the flushing of the cooling system that will take a lot of time.
Charlie
They will not interchange. When I replaced mine I did a lot of
searching. PS were cheaper at that time but not listed for a IDI.
Parts Geek and Rock Auto had a Motor Craft remanufactured
one at that time, can`t find one now. Both in the $300 range,
don`t remember who I went with, but there were no gaskets or
O Rings in the box when it came. Contacted them and they said
the picture was a generic one, but were were on their listing.
So then I had to search to find the parts, which ended up costing
more.
I used Diesel Hub`s tutorial as a guide.
https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenanc...il-cooler.html
The 4 bolts on the front end are a challenge to get to. I finally
pulled the L/F wheel, inner fender, Battery, coolant bottle etc...
then the bolts are looking right at you. Little more work, but
then 30 years of grit. grime dirt and etc... got cleaned up puttin
it all back together.
I are an expert now after doing one. I agree oil in the coolant
bottle and Radiator are a indicator of a OC Leaking.
It`s the flushing of the cooling system that will take a lot of time.
Charlie
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