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It started very occasionally with a clunk coming from the rear, mostly left rear wheel. Sounded like hitting a big pot hole. Now it’s more consistent so I pulled the axles hoping it was a wheel bearing. The bearings look and feel fine but while there I’ll replace them anyway. It’s has a 9 inch rear end and there is gasket goop around it that so.....Its been messed with before. Why at only 135k I don’t know.
Would you?
1. Buy a remanufactured Third member , from which vendor?
2. Take the Third member to a local rebuild place with a good rep
or
3. Rebuild the Third member yourself.
Reman'd 9ers are mostly performance based, and pretty expensive.
Rebuild it yourself? Do you need a new hobby? This is a tedious job that requires a dial indicator and (I can't remember) maybe another special tool or two. If you fubar it, it comes apart for a new crush washer or shims. Figure 2 to 4 for someone good at it, 5 to 9 for a beginner.*
Talk to the shop first and make sure they know how to do it and won't be learning on your dime.
*I could be exaggerating. I watched a Ford guy rebuild my 8" and it took him several tries, and several hours. This on a bench, no R & R, just a rebuild.
Clean out your axle tubes and the bottom of the housing. And then clean them again. Little bearing destroyers like to hide there. I got to watch the Ford guy again.
I'd buy an assembled unit. Unless you're tooled for it, and knowledgeable at diff installation, which you're probably not or you wouldn't have asked. I bought my 9" third member from Speedway a few years ago. Eaton Trutrac, 3.50. The price was tolerable. They even used a nodular case, which I did not request or pay for.
I'd buy an assembled unit. Unless you're tooled for it, and knowledgeable at diff installation, which you're probably not or you wouldn't have asked. I bought my 9" third member from Speedway a few years ago. Eaton Trutrac, 3.50. The price was tolerable. They even used a nodular case, which I did not request or pay for.
I was leaning this way but I saw a bad review about a noisy rear end from Speedway. But I know how the internet can be....glad to hear you’re happy with yours.
Reman'd 9ers are mostly performance based, and pretty expensive.
Rebuild it yourself? Do you need a new hobby? This is a tedious job that requires a dial indicator and (I can't remember) maybe another special tool or two. If you fubar it, it comes apart for a new crush washer or shims. Figure 2 to 4 for someone good at it, 5 to 9 for a beginner.*
Talk to the shop first and make sure they know how to do it and won't be learning on your dime.
*I could be exaggerating. I watched a Ford guy rebuild my 8" and it took him several tries, and several hours. This on a bench, no R & R, just a rebuild.
Clean out your axle tubes and the bottom of the housing. And then clean them again. Little bearing destroyers like to hide there. I got to watch the Ford guy again.
I have the tools, it’s more about time. And yes I’d hate to get it wrong and have to start over.
The local shop has been doing it for years, cars to big rigs.
I was leaning this way but I saw a bad review about a noisy rear end from Speedway. But I know how the internet can be....glad to hear you’re happy with yours.
Yep, if you find a company with no bad reviews, it's a safe bet that they only post reviews they like. And I imagine you're intelligent enough to recognize that a lot of bad reviews are posted by folks that screwed up the install.
I have the tools, it’s more about time. And yes I’d hate to get it wrong and have to start over.
The local shop has been doing it for years, cars to big rigs.
I'm tooled for it also, with the exception of a case spreader which you don't need for a 9" center section. But dialing in diff's is one thing that I won't mess with. I know one shop about 100 miles away that I moderately trust. He's rebuilt two front ends for me, and replaced the clutch in my Dodge 2500. I had him install the Eaton Trutrac in my Dent's front D44, and he did make screwup that I caught and fixed. One of the many great features of a Ford 9", as you know, is you can order an assembled center section, and fully inspect backlash and wear pattern on the bench or tailgate. You can't do that with rear entry housings. Then install it yourself, knowing that it's at least 99% it's right.
Quick Performance https://www.quickperformance.com/Com...ons_c_558.html
"a nine is easy to do". Too many guys read something like this and stick in a new set of gears...and completely screw everything up.Could possibly be the case with yours and the previous owner.Pull it out of the housing and have a look.Might be something obvious and easy to fix. The people at Quick are diff experts.Call and talk instead of online.
Nines ARE easy to do ...if you know what you are doing.
Quick Performance https://www.quickperformance.com/Com...ons_c_558.html
"a nine is easy to do". Too many guys read something like this and stick in a new set of gears...and completely screw everything up.Could possibly be the case with yours and the previous owner.Pull it out of the housing and have a look.Might be something obvious and easy to fix. The people at Quick are diff experts.Call and talk instead of online.
Nines ARE easy to do ...if you know what you are doing.
Off with the old. I’ve got a 411 posi with 31 splines and a 1310 short yoke. I’m learning thanks to this forum, now I know what order. The folks at Quickperformance.com are great.
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