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Decifering paint code

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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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Decifering paint code

So you guys have seen the 76 hiboy I resurrected.
it needs some paint work.
I can read the color code M8 on the metal vin tag fine , but the 2 digit code the painter needs from the data sticker , seems to be blank .
for the life of me , I see no codes on the data sticker .
Can anyone help me .
Thank you .


 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 08:33 PM
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Wimbledon White is the M and by the look of your door. Is it a two tone truck? The 8 could be Dark Yellow Green Metallic.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 08:36 PM
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The door tag is what matters anyway. any information on the sticker is redundant. it's Wimbelton white and dark green metallic.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks for your reply, the confirm the colors , that I already knew .
paint stores need a 2 character code, to make the paint .
winbelton white has been used for over 50 years . The dark yellow green metalic is the more difficult on .
anyone here have a 77 with the same color ?
I did find the 2 digit code for that color for a 77 .
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 09:48 PM
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you're not going to get an exact match with a code, and the only way to get a close match is to take a part with paint on it in and have it color matched. if it's a repair this is the only way and it will still likely not be great.

 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 09:55 PM
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Does this help?
1976 Color Codes - Ford Paint Cross-Reference
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 03:11 AM
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You guys do not seam to understand the need for the code .
Code is the recipe for the paint . I am certainly not new to the body and paint game , and also know the paint will need to be tweeked to get a true match .
Thank you .
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 03:12 AM
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Thank you sir , that is the same chart I had found .
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip
So you guys have seen the 76 hiboy I resurrected.

I can read the color code M8 on the Warranty Plate, but the 2 digit code the painter needs from the Certification Label, seems to be blank.
There is no COLOR code on the Certification Label V until 1980. What you see is all you get. Ditto for the TRANS, AXLE and etc. codes as these are stamped only on the Warranty Plate.


M = Wimbledon White (1964/79), Ford basic part number 1619 // 8 = Dark Yellow Green Metallic (1975/76), Ford basic part number 5233

Certification Label replaced Warranty Plate in 1980.

F26 = F250 4WD Pickup.

Y = 360 2V

R = San Jose CA Assembly Plant.

D02331 = 1976.

133" Wheelbase.

M8 = See above.

F262 = F250 4WD Pickup, 7700 lbs. GVWR

DG4: DG = Green all Vinyl - Body Style 81A Custom // 4 = Styleside Pickup Box.

A = New Process 435 4 Speed Manual Transmission.

24J: 24 = Dana 60 Rear Axle // 4.10-1 // 5,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity /// J = Power Steering (Bendix Power Assist).

7,700 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

1976.

72 = San Jose (NorCal) Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 05:31 AM
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Now that you have confirmed "M8" is the trucks 2 tone paint code I assume you need a "mix" number for whatever brand of paint your painter uses.In the rare occasion I cannot come up with a mix number by coinciding the vehicles paint code (say M8) with a color chip (which has the MIX number) I call my paint supplier who will just run the paint code(M8) in their data system & quickly have the mix number.I have chip books for PPG also Rogers (Sherwin Williams/Acme) from 2020 back into the 60's. If you need a mix number for either of those brands I can attempt to track one down. Other than that your painter should be able to walk into his paint store with the M8 and have them mix what he wants for that brand. good luck!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 09:55 AM
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Thanks to the both of you .
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 11:56 AM
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The name and " 8 " are all you need. if your paint supplier can't find it with that find another paint shop.

Enamel will be your closet match.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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When I got my truck, I was researching my its color (Bright Dark Blue Metallic) and managed to find some chart somewhere which gave a cross reference of my truck's paint code and some modern code - I think I might've been searching the name of the color rather than my truck's code (which escapes me right now...) But on a nearly 50 year old truck, matching to the actual color on the truck would be better. And I believe you've already buffed out the paint on it? That's good, because that's what you want to match to.

And I might be wrong here, but it seems to me that Ford would sometimes very slightly change the color from year to year, yet still keep the same name and code, which is to say that the year of your truck will matter when buying paint too.

X2 on enamel, you want something as close as possible to what Ford used.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 04:00 PM
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Thank you sir , and yes I have cut and buffed the paint already , and will be using a single stage enamel to match the original .
my painter is excellent at matching paint so as not to have to blend into other panels .
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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The original paint was acrylic enamel. Make sure that OR allows you to use enamel because here in CA, only two stage paint (base coat/clear coat) can be used.
 
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