How much coolant
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How much coolant
How much coolant does an OE radiator on a 170 engine take? I'm looking to switch my coolant out to the Evans Waterless coolant, but need to know how much I would need.
Has anyone switched out their coolant to the waterless collant? It is supposed to last the life of the engine.
Has anyone switched out their coolant to the waterless collant? It is supposed to last the life of the engine.
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about 1.5 gallons but it is dependent on the radiator (cores, etc.)... but why change out.... it really doesn't and can't drop the temp below your operating temp, and you can get the same longevity out of glycol based coolants with excellent corrosion protection by using an inexpensive anode.
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Much higher boiling point, up to 375 degrees. Isn't pressurized like water mixed coolant. Lasts the life of the engine, so no need to flush out and replace coolant. I just had the lower radiator hose split and spray out all over the place when my engine overheated. I figure now is the time to do it if I'm going to. The stuff I am going to use is the Evans waterless coolant. I may be falling for the marketing gimmicks, but I figure it is worth a try.
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From: Fayetteville, NC
The whole system uses 9.5 to 10.5 quarts depending on year and radiator size. See the far right collumn here:
Econoline Engines
Econoline Engines
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Much higher boiling point, up to 375 degrees. Isn't pressurized like water mixed coolant. Lasts the life of the engine, so no need to flush out and replace coolant. I just had the lower radiator hose split and spray out all over the place when my engine overheated. I figure now is the time to do it if I'm going to. The stuff I am going to use is the Evans waterless coolant. I may be falling for the marketing gimmicks, but I figure it is worth a try.
2. When I drain the coolant, I place a doubled up paper towel over the funnel which filters to less than 3 microns (much better then any of the inline filters)- in terms of contaminants, the coolant is now as clean as when it came out of the original bottle. Provided it meets all the other test I do, it is reinstalled in the vehicle.
3. I have installed a magnesium anode in all overflows (same electrolysis protection used per code for all underground tanks)- Zinc anodes are available as well (JC Whitney, etc.) specifically for automotive applications and sell for about $6- they attract all the nasty stuff that destroys radiators, pumps, hoses etc and they become the sacrificial lamb- and keeps the ph of the fluid neutral. The inside of my cooling system and related components is spotless- literally!
4. I check the ph (using a swimming pool kit) - and check the alcohol content using a conventional coolant bulb type test device ($20 at any parts store)
the results.....
1. Contaminant production is eliminated by 90%+ as a result of the neutral ph maintenance
2. Contaminants that are produced are contained outside of the system flow, in the overflow at the anode. At this point I have less contaminant in my system than if I used an inline filter because we have eliminated 90% of the production and contained the residual.
3. With the paper towel, I can actually see the residual system contaminants (which you can typically count) and by most accounts visually know if a potential problem exist by the type and color of the products. The coolant is as clean as if I had opened a fresh container.
4. The system is clean and performance level known.
My personal results...
My father (an ol salt flats racer & aerospace engineer) starting this in the 1950's and typically the conventional coolant lasts 10-20 years in the vehicle before requiring replacement. I cannot remember repairing a radiator or heat exchanger or water pump during my 50+ years on this earth on any of my family's vehicles- (I take that back, I replaced 2 water pumps on my 1990 F150 when due to a pulley tension/alignment problem it ate two bearings/seals, my fault as I didn't check it the 1st time, but at 80,000 miles I was not too surprised to see a leak from the water pump bearing and after 17 years, the plastic part on my wifes 1997 Cougar radiator cracked, about 1 year later the heater core had a pinhole in it.). Our list of vehicles includes...
1959 221 CID V8 Ranchero (1965 to 1971)
1932 Flathead V8 Ford Coupe (1960 to 2007)
1965 Mustang (1965 to present, and yes, it's a copper core unit)
1969 F100 (1972 to 1984)
1984 F150 (1984 to 2006) (400K+ miles w2 rebuilds)
1979 Honda (1982 to 1990)
1987 Toyota Celica GT (1987 to 1997)
1990 F150 (1990 to 2006)
1997 Cougar Sport (1990 to present)
2006 Mark LT (2006 to present)
More Turbo
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The big problem with the Econolines is preventing the hot air that has just passed through the radiator from going back in the front of the radiator. The belly pan, which have rotted or been removed over the years, is crucial for keeping your Econoline from getting too hot.
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I've got the belly pan, so hopefully this experiment goes well. I'm in the process of replacing the heater hoses so I've dropped the belly pan for now, but once I get everything all put back together, I'm hoping for some good cooling without another blow-up.
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More Turbo
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How is your radiator? New? They get clogged over time. Mustang radiators fit, but the brackets have to be reversed.
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There's a coolant filter? Where is that? I basically just drained the old coolant, did the flush with the prep fluid, then drained that. Filled it with the new waterless coolant, and away I went.
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