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Hi Folks:
I am replacing the rear bearings on my 2005 Excursion 2wd. New bearings and new oil bath seals. Right rear goes just fine. Left rear is a problem. When I torque it to 60lbs and then back off by 5 clicks, the hub ends up being really stiff and hard t turn by hand. The right side is just fine. Any advice ?
Sounds like you did it correctly. Did you do these?
CAUTION: Make sure the hub nut tab is located in the keyway prior to thread engagement.
Tighten the hub nut, rotating the rear hub occasionally while tightening.
You already knew this: For new bearings, ratchet back five teeth or notches (1/8 turn) on the hub nut. Five notches must be felt during this operation in order to have performed it correctly.
Yep! Exactly what I did. I even back the hub nut off and re-did it thinking that the Oil seal might not have been fully seated (I had checked that).
I am concerned because I am getting ready to tow a heavy travel trailer. Nothing like your trailer passing you on the way down the hill because your wheel fell off
Thanks for sticking with me. What you say makes perfect sense. I followed those instructions about pre-lubing etc. I have the shop manual.
The flinger is a possibility though I would swear i put it on right (tabs down). The torque wrench is the great unknown. It's specs say that the counterclockwise accuracy is +/- 6% vs. Clockwise +/- 3%. I played with the torque a little and I need to back off the nut by more than half a full turn (lots more than 5 or 7 clicks) to get the hub to turn half way easy.
I guess the only way to be sure is to pull it off again and check the flinger. I may also see if I can borrow a torques wrench with known reverse thread accuracy. It's just a pain because every time I have to put on a new oil bath seal. They are not cheap.
If this does not work I am at a loss. How much can a hub be overtightened before we have a real problem? Could I just finish assembly and drive it, hoping that everything will wear in just fine?
Thanks for sticking with me. What you say makes perfect sense. I followed those instructions about pre-lubing etc. I have the shop manual.
The flinger is a possibility though I would swear i put it on right (tabs down). The torque wrench is the great unknown. It's specs say that the counterclockwise accuracy is +/- 6% vs. Clockwise +/- 3%. I played with the torque a little and I need to back off the nut by more than half a full turn (lots more than 5 or 7 clicks) to get the hub to turn half way easy.
I guess the only way to be sure is to pull it off again and check the flinger. I may also see if I can borrow a torques wrench with known reverse thread accuracy. It's just a pain because every time I have to put on a new oil bath seal. They are not cheap.
If this does not work I am at a loss. How much can a hub be overtightened before we have a real problem? Could I just finish assembly and drive it, hoping that everything will wear in just fine?
Mike
That's odd the other side was easy and this side is not. Something is binding up.
You could do the hub nut to spec and then reassemble and drive it a few miles, then recheck to see if the everything loosened up.
I won't tell you to loosen the hub nut beyond spec, but that is an option.
I have had luck with Timken seals for these as far as having to disassemble them quickly after initial assembly. It also helps to keep the hub assembly as straight as possible when pulling it off.
