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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Air conditioning.

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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 6t6merc
This shows a different way to mount a Sanden type compressor:
A/C Compressor bracket for FE - New Design - The FORDification.com Forums

I also have an old system I want to use. A major problem is that r134a refrigerant will not work with the old components. The expansion valve will not work properly, and the condenser will be too small, among other things. We both need an expert's advice.

Eric.
Try your local Princess Auto for some R12a. I have heard rumours it is actually propane which is R290. Go to Gregg Distributors and pick up a box of refrigerant seals and replace them all. The system will blow some cold air but may not be as efficient as it could be. Who cares! It is driven by the vehicle engine which is only running if you are driving somewhere anyway.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 01:16 PM
  #17  
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Car makers hung many things off the water pump but the AC compressor was not one of them in my experience. However, the old compressors vibrated a lot more than the Sanden, especially the lawn-mower engines Ford used. Ford mounted the compressor to a bracket bolted to the left cylinder head with a strut rod to the manifold. I have those parts (T-Bird) but I like the under-the-alternator bracket.

We recently charged brother's '67 Eldo system with 12a and it works okay cruising but is marginal in traffic. I am told it contains propane which could be a problem.

Eric
 
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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 01:22 PM
  #18  
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Make sure you have fans running while in traffic to move air over the condenser. This may be part of the issue for you. I will admit I have never played with automotive AC.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 01:46 PM
  #19  
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I would plan on mounting to the cylinder head, but those holes in mine are plugged. I’ll have to look at mounting under the alternator also
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 11:15 AM
  #20  
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Is there a way to take the plugs out of the holes in the cylinder head, or are those cast in and permanently there?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 04:24 PM
  #21  
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Your heads should look like these. Just two threaded holes unless there's AC or ps, or sometimes a fuel filter or ignition coil bolted on.
What sort of plugs?



 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 05:42 PM
  #22  
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 07:30 PM
  #23  
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It may just be dirt. I'd use a small drill bit to carefully take out the center, then use a tap to clean out the threads.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 08:15 PM
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Turns out it was, grime that was painted over multiple times.
now to come up with a bracket
 
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Old Aug 4, 2020 | 08:57 AM
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How will I know how much refrigerant I will need? Since I’m almost piecing together this system, will a shop be able to fill to the correct amount?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:57 PM
  #26  
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Okay so the system I’m looking to buy is a Old Air unit, however it’s used, comes with blower assembly, condenser, vents, and dryer (do I need to replace that with new?)
the price was at 120 and is now at 60, would that be a good price even if it did need some work?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 02:00 AM
  #27  
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Should get a new dryer. If the system has a sight glass, it is full when the sight glass shows no more bubbles.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 01:22 PM
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Alright, is buying a used unit at that price good?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1966F100SC
Alright, is buying a used unit at that price good?
It is $60 bucks do you think that is a lot? As said you will need a new dryer, maybe a hose or 2, low psi switch set for R134A and if the system uses an orifice valve the valve, oh and the Freon.

You said you wanted to run the newer type compressor. If all you can find is the brackets for the York you can find an adaptor on Ebay to fit it on the old brackets.

BTW I just pieced together the system on my 81 F100. I had to swap in a factory firewall to use the factory AC from the parts truck but I also wanted to use the Sanden compressor.
Thing is the newer compressor, used from junk yard, and old hoses did not play nice and had to come up with new hoses to work.
New dryer, orifice valve, low psi switch, condenser (old was damaged), flushed the evap coil. Added 10oz Ester oil little to each part of system.
Pulled a vacuum and held it for over an hour and half and then charged with R134A.

Wither you use R12 or R134A find a chart to use for PSI and OAT when charging. That's what I used for my 134A and it works great.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
It is $60 bucks do you think that is a lot? As said you will need a new dryer, maybe a hose or 2, low psi switch set for R134A and if the system uses an orifice valve the valve, oh and the Freon.

You said you wanted to run the newer type compressor. If all you can find is the brackets for the York you can find an adaptor on Ebay to fit it on the old brackets.

BTW I just pieced together the system on my 81 F100. I had to swap in a factory firewall to use the factory AC from the parts truck but I also wanted to use the Sanden compressor.
Thing is the newer compressor and old hoses did not play nice and had to come up with new hoses to work.
New dryer, orifice valve, low psi switch, condenser (old was damaged), flushed the evap coil. Added 10oz Ester oil little to each part of system.
Pulled a vacuum and held it for over an hour and half and then charged with R134A.

Wither you use R12 or R134A find a chart to use for PSI and OAT when charging. That's what I used for my 134A and it works great.
Dave ----

what is the orifice valve, and low psi switch and where do they go? I know this unit uses an expansion valve.

I know I would be making my own new lines. And it used r134a
 
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