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i had to grind down a considerable amount of metal from the cylinders, and they still don’t work, so I trashed them. Before I order another set and have the same problem, does anyone have a link to a set that worked for them with no modification? Thanks!
Most of the restoration places sell a set of ignition and door cylinders that are keyed alike. I’m pretty sure they are selling the same set from the same overseas manufacturer. The door cylinders work well, but the ignition cylinder requires ample lubricant to work well. Example at this link: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...orign-lock-set
Most of the restoration places sell a set of ignition and door cylinders that are keyed alike. I’m pretty sure they are selling the same set from the same overseas manufacturer. The door cylinders work well, but the ignition cylinder requires ample lubricant to work well. Example at this link: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...orign-lock-set
Thanks, I don’t need an ignition switch but I might just go that route if I can’t find just a set of door lock cylinders
Just something I did for convenience: I took out pins in the door lock cylinder so I could use the same key for the ignition and. I think I ended up using 3 pins, rearranged for the single key.
this is if you will have a different key for ignition than the door
I know it’s not as safe as possible, but again not everyone can drive a 3 speed on the column.
Thanks, I don’t need an ignition switch but I might just go that route if I can’t find just a set of door lock cylinders
If you buy individual door lock cylinders, they come with two keyed alike keys, so you'll have two separate keys that won't match each other or the ignition switch key.
But if you buy a door lock/ignition set, it will come with two keyed alike keys that will all match.
The switch itself does not come with the cylinder, the bezel or the spacer, all were sold individually.
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