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Just make sure the timing chain cover is centered perfectly on the crank so the seal does not deform. It is a very simple task. You will need some blue silicon to fix the spot in the pan gasket you will destroy taking the cover off.
I would suggest a new ARP retaining bolt, and a dab of lock tite on the threads. Install a speedy sleve on the spacer, a new seal, gaskets and like Rat mentioned something for the pan gasket. Slide the timing chain cover on and then slide on the spacer, then run the cover bolts in finger tight (all of them) then torque. I also install studs for the fuel pump a dab of sealant on the threads. Saves stripping the cover pump bolt holes and it is a lot easier to put the pump on.
Good advice. Those threads strip real easy. Studs would be the way to go. I have just enough thread to hold the blockoff plate on mine. I doubt it would still hold a pump.
i got it toredown and the crank bolt was a pain. The cam eccentric looks good, and was not loose, and was 1 piece steel. Pisses me off and me and my friend cracked the cover trying to try it off. We were careful but the ear broke off anyway. I don't know what else there is that could be the problem.
HUH! What was the original problem? OKAY now tyhat you are in there, Replace the timing chain unless you know that it has less than 50K miles and is tight. Scrape all the old gasket materiel off the mating surfaces and use acetone and a single edge razor blade to get everything squeaky clean. Install a speedy sleeve on the spacer, get a new cover, install studs for the fuel pump and carefully reassemble. Use silicone to seal everything up along the oil pan/timing chain cover; especially in the corners. Glue the new gasket on both sides and reassemble. Don't drive the harmonic balancer back on, draw it on with the bolt. Use the spacer to center the cover and seal before you bolt the cover on, then start all the bolts finger tight. Be careful some are longer than others and some will need sealant on the threads because they enter the water jacket.