Popping when accelerating
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From: Virginia
Also, where are you putting the black lead of the meter? Touching it to the engine block somewhere or actually touching it to the negative in the plugs? The negative in the plugs would be the best place, so you can verify what the sensors are actually seeing. And I would try to keep everything plugged in when you are checking voltages. They make these nice slender back-probe gizmos that hook to the meter leads and let you push into the back of the connector to get a reading while everything is hooked up. You probably can make your own from a straightened out paper clip.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
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Also, where are you putting the black lead of the meter? Touching it to the engine block somewhere or actually touching it to the negative in the plugs? The negative in the plugs would be the best place, so you can verify what the sensors are actually seeing. And I would try to keep everything plugged in when you are checking voltages. They make these nice slender back-probe gizmos that hook to the meter leads and let you push into the back of the connector to get a reading while everything is hooked up. You probably can make your own from a straightened out paper clip.
I am putting the black lead to the negative in the connectors. I will try and make the back probe thing out of the paper clip!
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Check all the connectors for voltage when disconnected. Then plug one in. Then check voltage through the back of the connector after you pull it in.
Do one at a time. When the voltage is less than 5 volts replace that sensor.
Do one at a time. When the voltage is less than 5 volts replace that sensor.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
What he is saying in the above quote, you can have a problem with a sensor or wiring plug, and it will short out the 5v supply. 90% of the time it doesn't hurt the supply, it's designed with a "fold back" circuit that shuts it down to protect it itself. When the problem is taken away, it jumps back up. So that is the reason he is saying to check things plugged in, and if you have lost it, start unplugging one at a time and see when you get the voltage back.
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Joined: Jul 2020
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I would bet the EGR valve is stuck.
according to the symptoms he is experiencing.
But it would be a guess without more information.
according to the symptoms he is experiencing.
But it would be a guess without more information.
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Cross-Country
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Okay, so I tested with the paper clips with them hooked up got 0.04 so I took the connectors to the EGR and TPS apart checked for voltage and I got 4.89 put them back together and still got the 4.89 hooked the code reader back to it and I’m still getting the codes 31 and 63 checked voltage again still getting the 4.89... So it’s now getting voltage and I’m still getting the codes!
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From: Virginia
Make sure to disconnect the battery for a minute or so to clear the codes out of the memory.
When the engine is running you will get any hard faults it see's right then and no memory codes.
If you pull the codes with the engine off, you will see hard faults, then a separator pulse, and then the memory codes.
When the engine is running you will get any hard faults it see's right then and no memory codes.
If you pull the codes with the engine off, you will see hard faults, then a separator pulse, and then the memory codes.
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Cross-Country
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Make sure to disconnect the battery for a minute or so to clear the codes out of the memory.
When the engine is running you will get any hard faults it see's right then and no memory codes.
If you pull the codes with the engine off, you will see hard faults, then a separator pulse, and then the memory codes.
When the engine is running you will get any hard faults it see's right then and no memory codes.
If you pull the codes with the engine off, you will see hard faults, then a separator pulse, and then the memory codes.
I disconnected the battery for a few and I’m still getting the same codes!
well after trying it I checked the voltages again.. Now it’s back to 0.04! I checked the wires running to the connectors I’m still getting 4.89! When I take the connector apart I’m getting 4.89...
disconnected the battery for a bit re checked the codes even checking the voltages before and after the reading codes I still get 63 and 31... I guess I’ll try and reconnect the wires running to the sensors and see if it helps maybe if it gets moved it’s not getting a good connection so I’m gonna rule it out
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Next step Verify the ground. Black with White, check for continuity between the TPS and the EGR connectors. If good check for continuity between the TPS then the EGR to the Black with White at the ECT connector or the MAP connector. No sense going any further than that cause if the ECT Sensor or the MAP lost it's ground it would throw a code.
The last step will be to check the Data signal wire to the ECM
EGR Dark brown and green at the EGR connector to Pin 27 at the ECU
TPS Dark Green/ light green a the TPS connector to Pin 47 at the ECU
If that does not solve it we will have to meter out the EGR position sensor.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
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From: Northern VA
This is a great how-to that makes it easy to test TPS. FYI, you should have .7-.98 VDC between black and green wires of TPS at ldle, if not adjust it by loosening screws and turning it. If you can't obtain that reading, you may need to drill out TPS mount holes to allow more movement.
FYI: Do not mess with throttle screw at all.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-1
FYI: Do not mess with throttle screw at all.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-1
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
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Next step Verify the ground. Black with White, check for continuity between the TPS and the EGR connectors. If good check for continuity between the TPS then the EGR to the Black with White at the ECT connector or the MAP connector. No sense going any further than that cause if the ECT Sensor or the MAP lost it's ground it would throw a code.
The last step will be to check the Data signal wire to the ECM
EGR Dark brown and green at the EGR connector to Pin 27 at the ECU
TPS Dark Green/ light green a the TPS connector to Pin 47 at the ECU
If that does not solve it we will have to meter out the EGR position sensor.
The last step will be to check the Data signal wire to the ECM
EGR Dark brown and green at the EGR connector to Pin 27 at the ECU
TPS Dark Green/ light green a the TPS connector to Pin 47 at the ECU
If that does not solve it we will have to meter out the EGR position sensor.
When checking the ground from EGR to TPS and TPS to EGR what should it read? I’m getting 0.00
Im new to this, still learning so I appreciate all the help!