When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have this problem on both my 1966 stock roadster and my 1968 modified (pertronix ii) wagon. i checked the gasoline tank but filling it does not seem to help. what does seem to help is waiting a few hours until the engine cools off somewhat. there seems something wrong with the ignition systems. anyways, very annoying. any ideas? tia.
one input i got was that i was flooding the carberator. the advice i got was to wait until the gasoline in the bowl evaporated, then restart the engine while stomping only once on the accelerator and holding it while the engine turned and simply wait until it started to fire.
this seemed to work ok for the 1968, but for the 1966, it resulted only in a drained battery, gasoline all over the engine, and a large puddle of gasoline on the garage floor.
another input i got was to poke the carberator float on the 1966 since the float is allegedly "stuck." i am wondering, what is a "stuck" carberator float, and how does one fix it?
Stuck float-- just like a toilet. You need to at least take the top of the carb off and inspect it. A rebuild and cleaning would be better. Your problems will be over if you're sitting on top of a pool of gasoline and a spark finds the fumes.
on the 1966, i was getting a spark. since i was flooding, i was also getting fuel. the leak and rough running turned out to be a damaged carburetor accelerator pump diaphragm-- it was all frayed or torn up-- fixed with what amounted to a fresh carburetor rebuild which included a new accelerator pump diaphragm. have not driven it extensively yet since the fix, but it does seem to be running better (optimistic).
(so a carburetor rebuild (not just a cleaning) is recommended after how long of an interval?)
on the 1966, i was getting a spark. since i was flooding, i was also getting fuel. the leak and rough running turned out to be a damaged carburetor accelerator pump diaphragm-- it was all frayed or torn up-- fixed with what amounted to a fresh carburetor rebuild which included a new accelerator pump diaphragm. have not driven it extensively yet since the fix, but it does seem to be running better (optimistic).
(so a carburetor rebuild (not just a cleaning) is recommended after how long of an interval?)
Because much of the fuels across the US are blended (which typically includes alcohol or similar product) it is corrosive to the typical gaskets and particular the accel pumps....so a rebuild in daily driver use is typically good for 10+ years but, definitely use the alcohol spec accel pumps, etc. I typically get about 3 years befor I start seeing weeping out of the accel pumps.... the rest of the carb s are good for 15+ years
Because much of the fuels across the US are blended (which typically includes alcohol or similar product) it is corrosive to the typical gaskets and particular the accel pumps....so a rebuild in daily driver use is typically good for 10+ years but, definitely use the alcohol spec accel pumps, etc. I typically get about 3 years befor I start seeing weeping out of the accel pumps.... the rest of the carb s are good for 15+ years
I am in California and a super-quick search yields an alcohol content of 10%... yikes! and this would tend to account for my problems if my last full rebuild was 10+ years ago (the previous opportunity for such) ... dayum... :-/
apparently contemporary California gasoline is not designed for classic automobiles?
&^%$*)&%
edit: that is pretty sick. i could have torched myself in the garage and my entire home could have gone up in smoke... First, MTBE, and now this... sheesh...
also, found this in a web search
California Banning Sales Of New Gasoline Cars By 2035
Alan Ohnsman
Forbes
Sept. 23, 2020
I am in California and a super-quick search yields an alcohol content of 10%... yikes! and this would tend to account for my problems if my last full rebuild was 10+ years ago (the previous opportunity for such) ... dayum... :-/
apparently contemporary California gasoline is not designed for classic automobiles?
&^%$*)&%
edit: that is pretty sick. i could have torched myself in the garage and my entire home could have gone up in smoke... First, MTBE, and now this... sheesh...
also, found this in a web search
California Banning Sales Of New Gasoline Cars By 2035
Alan Ohnsman
Forbes
Sept. 23, 2020
Actually a written warning was well published in the 80's in California and stickers were placed on all fuel pumps stating that MTBE was an additive and in essence rubber fuel lines should be inspected and replaced with AR type fuel lines (in essence, fuel injection)...........
So none of this is new. With regards to the proposed California regs....they are proposed by a joint committee made of of automobile mfg's and legislators, health and environmental personnel... THIS IS NOT LAW! This is in essence an objective that this committee has determined is reachable by said date. Yes the Gov signed the exec order but.... just like in the 80's when we had the same committee and diff gov. do the same thing but with fuels..... "All heavy equipment will operate on clean burining fuel" (lpg, etc.)...well guess what, fire engines could not develope the required hp/tq with LPG to effectively turn the fire pumps (which weight 10,000 lbs) and push typically 2000 gallons per minute of water through fire hoses. So the exemptions began and the laws were developed.
If you are running any type of headers you may be experiencing heat-sink into the starter. That knocks out a lot of the old ford starters. If it always stars when cold and not when hot, you could try wrapping the starter with heat wrap and see if that helps.... then if it does, use a mini stater to replace the factory clunker.
It could also be timing is too high as well. If you run too much initial then it can cause the engine to not start when hot.....
Lastly, it could be a bad electric or auto choke on the carb too..... pull the air cleaner when hot and see if the choke is closed...... if so, you know......
If you are running any type of headers you may be experiencing heat-sink into the starter. That knocks out a lot of the old ford starters. If it always stars when cold and not when hot, you could try wrapping the starter with heat wrap and see if that helps.... then if it does, use a mini stater to replace the factory clunker.
It could also be timing is too high as well. If you run too much initial then it can cause the engine to not start when hot.....
Lastly, it could be a bad electric or auto choke on the carb too..... pull the air cleaner when hot and see if the choke is closed...... if so, you know......