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So sounds like you do not even the have the clearance to get full throttle. Then Daves suggestion is the way to go move the mounting location of the ball stud forward. This will do 2 things make the available travel longer but also change the ratio so less pedal movement will result in more throttle movement. That should fix it up.
Also, just curious any chance the cable lock has backed out of the ball stud socket? That may have been the issue also.
See below.. circled area
yeah I tried adjusting that circled area already. I thought that too. I’m going to try moving it to do for more movement. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.
So..upon further inspection. I won’t be able to move the throttle cable up. There isn’t enough room for me to move the bolt. There won’t be enough room with my idle adjustment screw. I’m attaching a photo so you can see what I’m talking about.
Looks like you're on to the solution increasing throttle throw may solve it. But riddle me this Batman, how did you go from an operational condition, prior to noticing that it wasn't working to not working?
These throttle cable adjustments didn't slip one day...
Looks like your on to the solution increasing throttle throw may solve it. But riddle me this Batman, how did you go from an operational condition, prior to noticing that it wasn't working to not working?
These throttle cable adjustments didn't slip one day...
The impression I get from his first post is he never really demanded anything much from the engine until one day he got a wild hair and tried it out. Then he noticed he had a problem.
Why is that arm behind the red circle bent like it is? That looks to me like a arm that comes around and hits the bellcrank and linkage system there on the side, and if I am thinking right that hooks to the choke. That might be a "clear flooded engine" mechanism there and forces the choke open when you floor it. That is not bottoming out is it at full throttle? And keeping it from opening the carb all the way up?
This is going to take some staring and figuring to get this right. It would be best to disconnect the fuel supply and run the carb out of fuel so you can mess with the linkage for awhile opening and closing it without flooding the engine with fuel from the accelerator pump.
If you want to check what I asked in the first paragraph, what I would do is disconnect all the linkage, tranny and pedal, and then open the carb by hand to see if it can even achieve wide open by itself. If it can't, maybe that bent arm has something to do with it.
Why is that arm behind the red circle bent like it is? That looks to me like a arm that comes around and hits the bellcrank and linkage system there on the side, and if I am thinking right that hooks to the choke. That might be a "clear flooded engine" mechanism there and forces the choke open when you floor it. That is not bottoming out is it at full throttle? And keeping it from opening the carb all the way up?
This is going to take some staring and figuring to get this right. It would be best to disconnect the fuel supply and run the carb out of fuel so you can mess with the linkage for awhile opening and closing it without flooding the engine with fuel from the accelerator pump.
If you want to check what I asked in the first paragraph, what I would do is disconnect all the linkage, tranny and pedal, and then open the carb by hand to see if it can even achieve wide open by itself. If it can't, maybe that bent arm has something to do with it.
i can definitely open it full throttle by hand and nothing hits. It definitely seems like I’m lacking range of movement though for whatever reason.
Looks like you're on to the solution increasing throttle throw may solve it. But riddle me this Batman, how did you go from an operational condition, prior to noticing that it wasn't working to not working?
These throttle cable adjustments didn't slip one day...
I never really gave it full throttle in the first place. Trying to keep those MPG up! Haha. The only thing I did was install a 1in carb spacer to help with heat soak. That’s when I took it for a test spin and noticed the issue. I didn’t/don’t think that would’ve thrown it so off. But maybe I’m obviously wrong..or it’s been like this since I got it and never noticed.
Maybe it was just slightly out of adjustment from working due to cable stretch and or vibrating out of adjustment it stopped kicking down. Either way you're going to want to be able to open her up. Don't you have a freeway on ramp near you?
Have you backed the accel cable out as much as you can?
I just want to be clear that you can't open the throttle all the way even when doing it by hand ?
Have you backed the accel cable out as much as you can?
I just want to be clear that you can't open the throttle all the way even when doing it by hand ?
If I seen his post right he can open the throttle all the way by hand it just will not with the pedal.
He needs to fix this first and the kick down may fix its self?
Dave ----
If I seen his post right he can open the throttle all the way by hand it just will not with the pedal.
He needs to fix this first and the kick down may fix its self?
Dave ----
Maybe it was just slightly out of adjustment from working due to cable stretch and or vibrating out of adjustment it stopped kicking down. Either way you're going to want to be able to open her up. Don't you have a freeway on ramp near you?
yes. Actually I took for a test drive today. Now I can get it to open all the way up and it kicks down. But if I leave it where it is now, it’s either the cable getting bound or the throttle plates aren’t fully closing. Because I have a high idle, and if I let my foot off the brake on a flat surface it gets up to about 10-15 mph (give or take given my speedo might be off a little).
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