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1988 e350 fuel pump question

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Old Aug 1, 2020 | 03:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Maillemaker
I've been wrestling with fuel pumps also. Mine is 1990. If yours is fuel-injected, then you will have an in-tank pump, and a frame-mounted booster pump. Both are on the same circuit, and both route through the inertial cutoff switch and the same relay.

You should easily hear the frame-mounted pump if you open the driver's door while turning the key to on when the relay clicks. To hear the in-tank pump you'll have to crawl under the RV and listen to the tank. A mechanic's stethoscope is useful here also. You can touch it to the frame pump and touch it to the tank to listen.

Another thing to do is hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel injection rail under the hood and see if you are getting pressure. You should be reading 30-40 PSI there.

Be aware that if the in-tank fails, the frame-mounted pump is strong enough to suck gas through the dead in-tank pump, masking the problem. I am now fairly certain this is what has caused many a "die while hot" issue you find on the internet for our era vehicles. I suspect when the gas gets hot and the in-tank pump dies, the high pressure pump pulls enough of a negative pressure between itself and the tank that the fuel in the line boils, and then the high pressure pump cavitates, giving no fuel pressure until things cool down.

Steve
That sounds reasonable. When I turn the key to on I hear the relay under the hood click, then click again like it should to prime the system. I have power to and from the inertia switch. I crawled under the vehicle and listened while someone turned the key on and off. When the relay clicked I did not hear either fuel pump hum. I laid under the one on the frame and nothing, laid under the tank and nothing. It only has a couple of gallons of gas in it. I banged on the tank and that didn't help.
Next time I get to it I am going to take my meter and follow the above proceedures and test things out.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 06:26 PM
  #17  
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We finally have cool weather and time to mess with the motor home again. I pulled the pump off the frame and tested the plug. When I turn the key on I get power for a couple of seconds as I should. I connected jumper wires to the pump directly to a battery on my bench, it does not even try to run.
I could not get to the wires at the tank to check for power to the tank pump, the plug is on top of the tank. I don't want to have the tank laying in his driveway while I wait for a pump.
Going to get on Rock Auto and try to order both pumps.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 07:02 PM
  #18  
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That sounds like an excellent move. If memory serves , the tank pump unit was around $40 but the booster pump was closer to $95. I got mine at a local parts store so Rock Auto should be better. Dropping the tank in a motor home is not something I would look forward to. My truck has a flat bed on it , and I lifted the bed off with a lift in my shop which gave easy assess to everything. I even took the tank out and powerwashed inside and out. Best of luck with your project and keep me posted on your progress !!!!!!!!
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 09:04 PM
  #19  
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Yeah Rock Auto is a lot cheaper. Fuel pumps, tank strainer and filters. I am surprised, the tank will not be hard to get out. It is sitting in an open space, away from the axle and the frame so it should drop straight down. And it only has 2 gallons of gas in it! There should be enough room to slide it out so I can clean and flush it. Also, there is not a lot of rust or dirt under this thing. I dont know the mileage, but it hasnt been driven a lot and mostly highway interstate driving.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 09:22 PM
  #20  
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I was just under my RV this weekend, and noticed that the harness branches off to the tank just behind the rear axle on the driver's side. There is a convenient plug right there. I noticed it because the harness was hanging low below the axle and was ripe for getting ripped off if I ran over anything while off road. My mechanic did not properly secure the harness when they replaced the in-tank pump last week.

I would avoid Airtex pumps. I have had 2 put in and both failed. If you scour the internet, you might be able to find another new old stock Ford Motorcraft pump assembly.

Also, don't throw out the original in-tank pump assembly. If the sending unit for the fuel gauge works well, then you can replace only the pump on the assembly. This way you know that your gas gauge will read properly. With the Airtex pumps I put in mine the gauge never read exactly right.

You can also check the function of the in-tank pump by disconnecting the fuel line where it goes into the high pressure pump, disconnect the high pressure pump connector at the pump, and then energize the key while the fuel like is put into a peanut butter jar or something. The in-tank pump should pump gas into the jar.

Be aware of fuel leakage onto yourself or in general when disconnecting fuel lines under the vehicle. Don't use an incandescent drop lamp bulb under the vehicle where it might ignite the gasoline. Use an LED light or something. Keep a fire extinguisher handy or at least have the garden hose turned on and handy with the spray nozzle nearby. Have an exit plan for getting out from under that vehicle in a hurry if something goes wrong.

Steve
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 09:26 PM
  #21  
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Spray the strap bolts with some good penetrating oil a couple of days before you do the work if you have the time. put some type of support under the tank so it will not drop all the way down. I used a floor jack with a 12" x12" piece of plywood on it. You will want to loosen the fuel filler hose and vent line.on the driver side. Once the tank is down far enough you should be able to reach the sending unit and disconnect the electrical and fuel lines. A few inches straight behind the sending unit, on top of the gas tank, will be a rollover valve with a rubber hose on it too.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 09:35 PM
  #22  
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Great advice Steve I really like the idea of LED lights! BTW my service manual says the flow for the in tank low pressure pump is a minimum of 16 ounces in 10 seconds.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 09:53 PM
  #23  
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I disconnected the fuel hose coming into the high pressure pump and cycled the key. No fuel.
When I do fuel pumps I usually use my floor jack with a 2x12 to spread the pressure across the tank hopefully to prevent puncturing the tank. I also use a couple of jack stands as a safety catch and to support the tank while I unplug things. Hopefully I have room to unplug and disconnect once I drop the tank a few inches. A year or so ago I did a pump on a Taurus,. There was no room to get above the tank to the connections, I had to do it all by feel. Then the new delphi pump I put in was bad out of the box so had to do it all over again!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 12:14 AM
  #24  
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I don't know why you can't get reliable aftermarket fuel pumps!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 01:18 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Maillemaker
I don't know why you can't get reliable aftermarket fuel pumps!
I know that too well! A year or two ago when I did the fuel pump on the Taurus, I had the first pump bad out of the box. That same fall I replaced a fuel pump in a Blazer, That on was worse! I replaced the fuel pump and it wouldnt start. It would start on ether and run very rough. I found the fuel pressure was too low, so I replaced the pump. That one held pressure and it would start but it still ran rough. It was not holding the pressure I would like to see either. I changed the fuel pressure regulator, which on those is under the intake manifold. It showed better pressure but still ran terrible and started hard. The pump was showing about 10 pounds low, so I changed it with a third new one. That one had good pressure, but it still ran really rough. I was standing there looking at the engine about to give up when I looked at the distributor cap. The owner had marked the plug wires with a white paint marker, numbering the cylinders. Thats when I saw it! He had 2 wires switched around, firing order was off. Changed that and it ran great! But that fall I ended up with 3 bad pumps out of the box.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 04:02 AM
  #26  
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If I am remembering right , the fuel lines have some tricky connections that take a special tool to disconnect them. I ended up making my own , but they can be purchased from Rock Auto. A google search on disconnecting fuel lines for that year of vehicle will show what you need. Also while you are ordering parts a fuel filter
would be a good thing. I was glad to hear that the tank can be dropped without much problem , and the 2 gallons of fuel left will make it much easier. Be careful and let us know how you are progressing.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 12:29 PM
  #27  
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Yeah I have a filter ready to order too. The fuel lines at the frame pump and filter have the fuel line clip holding it on. The clip that pulls out to release the line. I have the tool to release the round spring pressure fitting if the tank has that.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 01:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Maillemaker
OK, so after having just had my Airtex E4020S pump replaced with another, and having the gas gauge wander all over and now the pump seems to have failed again (last one failed due to poor electrical contact at spade connectors to pump itself), I am wanting to replace it with a better pump.

This is an RV, so it was based on a Stripped Chassis. It has an aft-mounted, 36-gallon tank.

I called Ford and they gave the part number for the stripped chassis as F1UZ9H307B.

I see one advertised here:
https://www.ebay.com/p/1130674907
Although the part number on the sticker on the outside mounting plate does not match that. Maybe it's the old "engineering number" vs. "part number" thing?

Found another one here:
https://nospartsltd.com/product/f1uz9h307b/

I found this Carter pump assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05276772.html

And this Delphi assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/l3nqb9c-fo...-assembly.html

Walmart of all places has the Delphi assembly for much cheaper than partsgeek:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Delphi-HP...Unit/153687345

What do you guys recommend?
Hi im really lost. I have a 1988 e-350 cutaway 7.5 litre 36 gallon aft axle single gas tank.
. I need an in tank fuel pump. Last time i had to do this it was solved with an airtex e2060
pump.
. These are no longer available.
what do i do?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 01:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Maillemaker
OK, so after having just had my Airtex E4020S pump replaced with another, and having the gas gauge wander all over and now the pump seems to have failed again (last one failed due to poor electrical contact at spade connectors to pump itself), I am wanting to replace it with a better pump.

This is an RV, so it was based on a Stripped Chassis. It has an aft-mounted, 36-gallon tank.

I called Ford and they gave the part number for the stripped chassis as F1UZ9H307B.

I see one advertised here:
https://www.ebay.com/p/1130674907
Although the part number on the sticker on the outside mounting plate does not match that. Maybe it's the old "engineering number" vs. "part number" thing?

Found another one here:
https://nospartsltd.com/product/f1uz9h307b/

I found this Carter pump assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05276772.html

And this Delphi assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/l3nqb9c-fo...-assembly.html

Walmart of all places has the Delphi assembly for much cheaper than partsgeek:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Delphi-HP...Unit/153687345

What do you guys recommend?
Hi im really lost. I have a 1988 e-350 cutaway 7.5 litre 36 gallon aft axle single gas tank.
. I need an in tank fuel pump. Last time i had to do this it was solved with an airtex e2060
pump.
. These are no longer available.
what do i do?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2023 | 03:19 PM
  #30  
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I would not recommend an Airtex fuel pump. My replacement died within like 2 years. On top of this the fuel gauge did not read properly.

I would recommend trying to find a Motorcraft NOS pump assembly.

If this is not possible, I would recommend removing the original pump and replacing the motor while retaining the rest of the assembly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

I can't say if the low pressure pumps Rockauto sells are better than what comes with an Airtex assembly, but I personally don't trust Airtex anymore.

 
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