1988 e350 fuel pump question
You should easily hear the frame-mounted pump if you open the driver's door while turning the key to on when the relay clicks. To hear the in-tank pump you'll have to crawl under the RV and listen to the tank. A mechanic's stethoscope is useful here also. You can touch it to the frame pump and touch it to the tank to listen.
Another thing to do is hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel injection rail under the hood and see if you are getting pressure. You should be reading 30-40 PSI there.
Be aware that if the in-tank fails, the frame-mounted pump is strong enough to suck gas through the dead in-tank pump, masking the problem. I am now fairly certain this is what has caused many a "die while hot" issue you find on the internet for our era vehicles. I suspect when the gas gets hot and the in-tank pump dies, the high pressure pump pulls enough of a negative pressure between itself and the tank that the fuel in the line boils, and then the high pressure pump cavitates, giving no fuel pressure until things cool down.
Steve
Next time I get to it I am going to take my meter and follow the above proceedures and test things out.
I could not get to the wires at the tank to check for power to the tank pump, the plug is on top of the tank. I don't want to have the tank laying in his driveway while I wait for a pump.
Going to get on Rock Auto and try to order both pumps.
I would avoid Airtex pumps. I have had 2 put in and both failed. If you scour the internet, you might be able to find another new old stock Ford Motorcraft pump assembly.
Also, don't throw out the original in-tank pump assembly. If the sending unit for the fuel gauge works well, then you can replace only the pump on the assembly. This way you know that your gas gauge will read properly. With the Airtex pumps I put in mine the gauge never read exactly right.
You can also check the function of the in-tank pump by disconnecting the fuel line where it goes into the high pressure pump, disconnect the high pressure pump connector at the pump, and then energize the key while the fuel like is put into a peanut butter jar or something. The in-tank pump should pump gas into the jar.
Be aware of fuel leakage onto yourself or in general when disconnecting fuel lines under the vehicle. Don't use an incandescent drop lamp bulb under the vehicle where it might ignite the gasoline. Use an LED light or something. Keep a fire extinguisher handy or at least have the garden hose turned on and handy with the spray nozzle nearby. Have an exit plan for getting out from under that vehicle in a hurry if something goes wrong.
Steve
When I do fuel pumps I usually use my floor jack with a 2x12 to spread the pressure across the tank hopefully to prevent puncturing the tank. I also use a couple of jack stands as a safety catch and to support the tank while I unplug things. Hopefully I have room to unplug and disconnect once I drop the tank a few inches. A year or so ago I did a pump on a Taurus,. There was no room to get above the tank to the connections, I had to do it all by feel. Then the new delphi pump I put in was bad out of the box so had to do it all over again!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
would be a good thing. I was glad to hear that the tank can be dropped without much problem , and the 2 gallons of fuel left will make it much easier. Be careful and let us know how you are progressing.
This is an RV, so it was based on a Stripped Chassis. It has an aft-mounted, 36-gallon tank.
I called Ford and they gave the part number for the stripped chassis as F1UZ9H307B.
I see one advertised here:
https://www.ebay.com/p/1130674907
Although the part number on the sticker on the outside mounting plate does not match that. Maybe it's the old "engineering number" vs. "part number" thing?
Found another one here:
https://nospartsltd.com/product/f1uz9h307b/
I found this Carter pump assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05276772.html
And this Delphi assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/l3nqb9c-fo...-assembly.html
Walmart of all places has the Delphi assembly for much cheaper than partsgeek:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Delphi-HP...Unit/153687345
What do you guys recommend?
. I need an in tank fuel pump. Last time i had to do this it was solved with an airtex e2060
pump.
. These are no longer available.
what do i do?
This is an RV, so it was based on a Stripped Chassis. It has an aft-mounted, 36-gallon tank.
I called Ford and they gave the part number for the stripped chassis as F1UZ9H307B.
I see one advertised here:
https://www.ebay.com/p/1130674907
Although the part number on the sticker on the outside mounting plate does not match that. Maybe it's the old "engineering number" vs. "part number" thing?
Found another one here:
https://nospartsltd.com/product/f1uz9h307b/
I found this Carter pump assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05276772.html
And this Delphi assembly:
https://www.partsgeek.com/l3nqb9c-fo...-assembly.html
Walmart of all places has the Delphi assembly for much cheaper than partsgeek:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Delphi-HP...Unit/153687345
What do you guys recommend?
. I need an in tank fuel pump. Last time i had to do this it was solved with an airtex e2060
pump.
. These are no longer available.
what do i do?
I would recommend trying to find a Motorcraft NOS pump assembly.
If this is not possible, I would recommend removing the original pump and replacing the motor while retaining the rest of the assembly.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256
I can't say if the low pressure pumps Rockauto sells are better than what comes with an Airtex assembly, but I personally don't trust Airtex anymore.






