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No. Injectors were checked for leak. valve covers removed and pressure checke . No leak found. They dont loose any pressure through either head. Also were buzzed tested and sounded great.
Agree with jstihl - HPOP is usually the last thing we recommend changing, after everything else is methodically ruled out, due to it's typical reliability.
You mentioned the IPR seems to be functioning well, looks in good shape. What makes you think that? The IPR DC going to 64.84% is just the PCM commanding more ICP, but the IPR may not be responding smoothly. A rebuild or replacement of this part would be a good next step, if it's condition is unknown.
Can you log several seconds of cranking/start and idle on Forscan and post screenshots or the FSL or CSV file? Happy to graph the CSV if it will help narrow down the issue.
Ok. Back at it for the first time. Still cracking for 10 seconds to start.
Replaced Icp
replaced ipr
replaced cps
Started up and runs like ****. I assume due to the air in the system now. Smoothed out after a little little. At 650 rpms the ipr reading is 27.73, the icp is reading between 580-600 psi. If I hit the gas to rev it up the psi shoots to around 1800-2000 psi on the icp. If I rev it and let go it now stalls out completely.
Again I had both valve covers off prior removed the oil lines to each head and injected 140psi compressed air into the system and it held with no leaks.
Yes. All oem. I actually tried 2 cps, first gray then the newer one.
as I was messing with it. I decided to drain the resevoir to pull the ipr again. I had under half a quart in there. When I put new oil in prior to cranking it was at a full quart and right near the top somehow I lost half a quarter during cranking and under 3 minutes of run time
I just pulled the drain back check ball valve and its in good shape. The spring and ball look good. Not deformed. Super tight and not gunned or damaged
Have a look at your ICP wiring all the way from the connector to well into the wire loom. The ICP should default to 750 PSI when warm or 2200 PSI when starting.
Also, change the value to PSI from kpa. The multiplier should be x1000.
Have a look at your ICP wiring all the way from the connector to well into the wire loom. The ICP should default to 750 PSI when warm or 2200 PSI when starting.
Also, change the value to PSI from kpa.
Correct and it does that but runs like a bag of crap. The screen shot was with the icp plugged in
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Wiring looks good. Swapped ipr again with another one and it runs better. No stalling out. But still long crank time. Here is another screen shot running after a few minutes.
I did notice oil gauge not moving when cranking. Only when started
Your long crank time is probably due to the HPOP reservoir losing oil, as you stated in post #20. The LPOP must refill the HPOP reservoir before the HPOP pressurize the system and send oil to the injectors.
Your long crank time is probably due to the HPOP reservoir losing oil, as you stated in post #20. The LPOP must refill the HPOP reservoir before the HPOP pressurize the system and send oil to the injectors.
So I took out the eot sensor and put on a mechanical gauge. It doesny read anything during cranking and then is at 40psi when at idle
I arrived at test AO in the Ford Service Manual because you stated you had a hard start condition and the HPOP reservoir was draining. Based on step AO4, it appears your LPOP is functioning properly, but your oil drain back issue is still elusive.
I arrived at test AO in the Ford Service Manual because you stated you had a hard start condition and the HPOP reservoir was draining. Based on step AO4, it appears your LPOP is functioning properly, but your oil drain back issue is still elusive.
Oil resevoir only dropped when cranking. When sitting overnight it stayed where it was the night before. I did pull the drain back and all looked well
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