engine tranny seperation
#1
10-19-2003, 02:16 PM
#2
10-19-2003, 02:50 PM
Kem,
When I pulled my 302, had the same trouble. I ended up removing the timimg cover and all the extraneous equipment from the front of the engine to make room enough so I could slide the engine forward far enough to slip the torque converter off the front splines. Once on the engine stand, the converter nuts were still a PITA and I ended up splitting them and replacing them. When the new 302 went in, I installed the converter back into the bell housing first then rebolted the flywheel once the engine was in the truck. You have to take care not to cut the inner seal on the converter when you reinstall it but its makes for a lot fewer headaches if you can reinstall the converter first. Trying to line up the guide pins and bolt holes between engine and tranny is difficult enough without having to deal with torque converter splines as well.
When I pulled my 302, had the same trouble. I ended up removing the timimg cover and all the extraneous equipment from the front of the engine to make room enough so I could slide the engine forward far enough to slip the torque converter off the front splines. Once on the engine stand, the converter nuts were still a PITA and I ended up splitting them and replacing them. When the new 302 went in, I installed the converter back into the bell housing first then rebolted the flywheel once the engine was in the truck. You have to take care not to cut the inner seal on the converter when you reinstall it but its makes for a lot fewer headaches if you can reinstall the converter first. Trying to line up the guide pins and bolt holes between engine and tranny is difficult enough without having to deal with torque converter splines as well.
#3
10-19-2003, 05:03 PM
I just pulled my 351W out, but I had no trouble with the converter nuts. Are yours rusted? We both live in the same area, and mine were corrosion-free, since we don't salt the roads here. If you can get a nut splitter on there, I'd try that.
If you pull the converter out with the flexplate, just make sure you drain it as good as you can. Otherwise there'll be an ATF flood.
Mine's a '92, I wonder if they used some sort of jam nut on your year.
If you pull the converter out with the flexplate, just make sure you drain it as good as you can. Otherwise there'll be an ATF flood.
Mine's a '92, I wonder if they used some sort of jam nut on your year.
#4
10-20-2003, 10:01 AM
Well, guys i was able to unbolt the flexplate/converter. needed to use a 14mm instead of the 9/16 socket i had been using. the one metric bolt on the damn thing who would have guessed. I left the converter in the tranny, i shouldnt have to remove should i? Now my next delema is tracking down the rest of the mass air harness. the motor has the injector harness on it now but i need the rest of the harness including the computer to make this motor work. I dont want to keep the sd system because its old and i would have to change out the distributor for one that uses the tfi connector and was made for a roller cam? so many decissions
any more help you can give guys is appreciated this is no fun doing this by yourself.
late
any more help you can give guys is appreciated this is no fun doing this by yourself.
late
#5
10-20-2003, 03:03 PM
Kem,
Glad to hear you were able to get the flexplate and TC seperated. No, no need to pull the converter if you don't have to. Will save you from having to clean up the puddle of tranny fluid too.
1pump,
Mine was a 92 and no corrosion here either...just wouldn't budge. They are all lock nuts the kind that are "pinched" on three sides to create drag when run down the bolt or stud.
I am just glad to hear I'm not the only one to have had that difficulty.
Glad to hear you were able to get the flexplate and TC seperated. No, no need to pull the converter if you don't have to. Will save you from having to clean up the puddle of tranny fluid too.
1pump,
Mine was a 92 and no corrosion here either...just wouldn't budge. They are all lock nuts the kind that are "pinched" on three sides to create drag when run down the bolt or stud.
I am just glad to hear I'm not the only one to have had that difficulty.