Ebay did not turn up anything on the pulley but the spacer is 2 " and someone wants $90 for an NOS one
Dave ----

 

Getting closer to having AC in the truck.

A member had a spare pulley so today was work on the truck day.
In swapping the pulley I found the fan only had 3 bolts holding it on so had to make a trip to the hardware store so I replace all 4 bolts.
Got the ALY & PS belts back on but needed to get the AC belt for it as I returned the belt I had because it did not fit the smaller pulley that was on the wrong pulley.
BTW the right pulley was 1" smaller dia. (6") than the wrong one (7"), I don't know what that will do for cooling both the motor & condenser?

I then flushed the evap coil. I could not find the $50 flush kits local and no one has rubbing alky. with this virus going around so I used Prep Sol.
It is used in body work to prep panels before any work & painting to rid panels of oil and leave nothing behind.
What came out was clean just a little tint from oil that was it. I also passed a lot of air thru it to make sure it was clear of the Prep Sol.

Then figured how much oil to add to each part of the system and added it to each part. Ever try and pour oil into a small line? Not fun at all.
I put oil on the O-rings and installed all the hoses so I should have a sealed system if all is right.

With tools in hand I went for the AC belt, first tried the one I returned (17585) thinking with the 1" smaller dia. it may work and it did not still to small.
Then tried a 17620 and it was to big, had to go with a 17600 and was able to get it tight right there in the parking lot.

May try pulling a vacuum tonight just so I know the system is sealed but it is damn hot in the garage even with the fan blowing.
Yesterday I picked up a gauge set and vacuum pump from HF.
Dave ----

 

Sounds like you might have it licked. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you that it holds a vacuum.
Then you can just sit in the truck with the ac on and eat some ice cream.
Great job!
Keep us posted on how it turns out.

 

When you store that new vacuum pump, put it back into the baggie it was in, twist tie it tight and place it back into the box it came in. It'll help preserve the oil. My HF Pittsburgh Pump works great. I did my truck once and installed two AC systems, my garage and house. I need new oil before I use it again.

I got the flush gun and a quart of solvent. Should have bought a gallon. Going to flush all my truck's AC components and trans mission cooler lines.


The flush gun comes with a air fitting that doesn't fit anything. And anything else won't fit it. So I made an adapter.

 

I have a question on wiring the compressor.
The York uses 1 wire, B - Y H and plugs into 1 wire on the York.

This new Sanden has a 2 wire plug, think Pink & Tan.
My question is, does it make a difference what wire I use to power the clutch and the other to ground?

Think this is the last thing needed before I can start to charge the system.

I did look up the wiring for a 85 and it showed the B - Y H 1 wire setup.
Thanks
Dave ----

 

Dave,
I don't think it matters. It's a electro magnet that pulls together when it gets the juice. Put 12 volts on it and see if it locks in.
If not reverse the polarity and try again.

 

Doesn't matter. If want to do a test, take a meter and put it on ohms x1 scale. Hold one lead to the case of the compressor, and touch the other lead to one terminal and then the other. Both should have no reading to ground. You will have to pick one and ground it, and the other will be the hot side.

 

Forgot to mention that the Freon will suck in the system from the vacuum alone. Maybe one can before the pressure switch will allow it to cycle on and off.

 

Thanks guys I will keep everyone posted.

On the pump you leave the oil in it when stored?
When I worked at the hospital we would drain the oil on the pump but it was used on a steam chiller that used a brim (salt) base liquid and the vapor would get into the oil and kill the pump if left in.
Dave ----

 

To speed up the process, pull the connector on the low pressure switch and put a jumper in it so the compressor runs all the time. It fills the system much faster like this. You can also speed it up by turning the can upside down for just a second and then turning it back upright. Don't leave it upside down, but if you just do it for short bursts, it will speed up the fill time.

 

Thanks guys
I figured being under a vacuum it would pull in the charge and I knew about jumping out the switch, but being in no hurry think I will let the switch do its job.

I don't know why I did not think of using a meter to see if 1 spade was ground or not.
Then again if 1 was ground why run 2 wires? But I will be save and check with meter.
Thanks again
Dave ----

 

My 1986 AC equipped truck has a two wire clutch. One is 12v coming from the pressure switch and the other goes to ground.

 

Thanks once my eye Dr. drops wear off I will hit the garage and start the vacuum pump while I make the electrical hook up.
Dave ----

 

Well I don't know if I have a good or bad charge?
When I first started the vacuum pump it pulled down 10 HG so I let it set for 10 min. while I did other things and lost vacuum?
Did it 1 more time and was like WTH! Went over some fittings, rechecked the gauge valves and think I did not have it open all the way and in no time pulled down to 28 HG.
This time when I turned off the pump I pulled the line off the pump and put it on the gauge set. This time it held 28 HG for over an hour so called it good.
Put the pump back on while I did the electrical side of this install and it pulled down to 30 HG by the time I pulled it off a few hours later.

I could not hook up the high side of the gauge as it needs an adaptor so I have no reading on that side.
I put 1 12oz can in with the motor off as the vacuum pulled it in.
I started the motor and the pump was going on & off a sign of low charge. 2nd can the pump stayed on all the time as did the 3rd can. I did not add the full 3rd can only about half.

When done it was blowing cool but not cold. Gauge at idle reads about 45 psi and 50 on the R134 and when you bring the RPM up it drops but did not see to what.
It was 100* in the garage and with a IR temp gun was getting 69* out of the vent with fan on high.
As said it blows cool but not cold and does not feel like it gets colder when driving. You can feel it is cooler inside the truck when you get in as I did a trash run.

As I was charging the system I did not feel the vents blowing any colder than they do now like when I saw frost on the evap at the orifice valve area, also a sign of low charge IIRC.
I am using a blue orifice valve should it have been a different color? I was told that would be good.
So what do I need to do to get it colder? I would think as small as the cab is I should get frozen out. What did I miss?
Dave ----

 

I'm thinking more freon.
Add a little then check temp. See if it gets colder. Add a little more then check again.
You can always remove some of you over fill it.