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Troubleshooting stalling after EGR delete

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Old Jul 16, 2020 | 11:55 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
I forgot to mention that the holes left by removing the EGR valve is in the EGR plate, usually installed between the throttle body and the upper intake plenum.

It's also very easy to disable the EGR without removing it. Just disconnect the connectors going to the solenoids that control its vacuum valves. Or disconnect and plug the vacuum line that goes to the EGR valve itself.
On SBF the EGR is always between the TB and the upper intake. I would not just disconnect the vacuum lines on the chance the valve would be left in the open position. I did a couple by removing the valve and plugging the ports in the upper with a 3/8NPT allen plug and then putting the EGR back in place. You will get a CEL
with it nonfunctional, but yet again, just about anything you do results in the CEL being lit. Doing it this way, it will pass a visual inspection.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 02:56 AM
  #17  
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Is a properly functioning EGR system really that bad for performance or economy? I don't think so. When I was working at Ford in the EEC department, one of the engineers told me that they tune the ignition close to the pinging threshold, and part of the equation is how much EGR is used at a given load. If you disable it, you run the risk of detonation, which will force you to back off on ignition timing, which leads to reduced performance, economy, and increased heat. not to mention the increase in NOx emissions.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 09:30 PM
  #18  
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I'm just going to gather the parts and reassemble the EGR system and TAI. if anything so that it runs cooler and I get better mileage than I am now. I ran some tests on the fuel system and unless there was something wrong with the shrader valve adaptor, I believe it may be the problem. Pressure was 23 and was lightly trickling into the container. Also, where can I acquire a diagram to show me the placement of the components?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 12:38 AM
  #19  
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Here is a diagram of the EEC-iv used in the Mustang HO engine:

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif

The wire 33 controls the solenoid that applies vacuum to the EGR valve.

Wires 32 and 38 controls the vacuum solenoids for the AIR control valves.

Unfortunately, I don't have a vacuum diagram, but the vacuum assemblies have formed lines that should plug into the ports on the solenoids. In general, they take a vacuum source, either from a tree mounted on the rear of the intake manifold or a "log" manifold screwed to the top edge o fthe firewall. The source would go to one side of the solenoids. The EGR uses one solenoid to control the valve. The AIR system uses 2; one to turn it on, the other to switch the air injection between the heads and catalytic converters.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jonathandunlap1990
I'm just going to gather the parts and reassemble the EGR system and TAI. if anything so that it runs cooler and I get better mileage than I am now. I ran some tests on the fuel system and unless there was something wrong with the shrader valve adaptor, I believe it may be the problem. Pressure was 23 and was lightly trickling into the container. Also, where can I acquire a diagram to show me the placement of the components?
Well you didn't remove the EGR so half your job is done. The Thermactor system can be done without. My 96 E150 van doesn't have it, never did. Neither does the Explorer 5.0.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 11:49 AM
  #21  
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Great. Thank you
 
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