Hi guys,

I thought I’d post a couple of pics removing dismantling my steering box for a rebuild. This is the first time I’ve done this so I hope it all goes well and can provide someone with a little help and encouragement when doing their own.

All comments are welcome and please correct me if you see anything a miss.

I have ordered the rebuild kit from CPP an it should be here next week. I also need to order some steering column components for the steering wheel end.

slowly making this old truck new again

Remove steering wheel

remove pitman arm

remove 3 bolts holding steering box to chassis

Loosen the clamp off and slide it up the column out of the way then use a dead blow hammer to lightly tap around the steering column to box connection to loosen it up

I used a screwdriver to gently pry the column/box apart

use a dead blow hammer to separate the box from the shaft. (penetrating fluid soaking overnight works well to help separate)

Once free you can either lower the steering shaft and box out from the bottom or remove the steering column in the cab and take the whole lot out through the cab. I’m fortunate to have a hoist so I dropped it out the bottom and left the column in the cab.

Once on the bench it’s time to separate the 2x worm drives


spin shaft to line worm drive up to knock it out (the 2 pics below)

Lined up ready to knock out

at this point I used a dead blow to knock the shaft down flush with the steering box

once flush, it’s time to rest it in the vice -not clamped at all.

I used a socket to drive the shaft all the way through and then a big flat punch to drive it all the way out. Notice the rag bin below ready to catch the worm drive gear

knocked out. Looks ok but I don’t have the new one yet to compare.

60 years of sludge

the steering shaft worm drive looks like it has had some grinding action at some point so I’m glad I went ahead with the rebuild. Besides some free play in the steering wheel (left to right) there wasn’t any other signs of wear.



need to order parts 10,11,12.

 

Nice set of pics. That should turn a little nicer when you finish. Have you replaced the king pins?

 

Nice write up, and lots of pics. Nice job! My order from CPP took longer than expected, seems like everything has changed in this world and it affects us also in a timely manor.

 

I did replace the kingpins when I did the MP brakes disc conversion. I got new bushings pressed in and honed for correct kingpin fit, so the front end is sorted now. I probably should have started a thread but it been a few years in the making.

I have noticed a massive delay in shipping times. Because I’m in Australia, normal USPS would take about 14 days to arrive now it’s taking 70+ Days. Luckily the CPP order was shipped with UPS so it should not be delayed- hopefully!

 

I'm in the states and it was about 3 weeks. Of course it was when this was in the early stages. Hopefully shipping dates are getting faster.

 

Got my steering box back from the machinist. The box was cleaned and new bushings pressed in and honed to suit the shaft. He also fitted the selector gear for me which was nice. The CPP rebuild kit seems like a good product and I’m happy with the end result, however no instruction were with the kit but were easily found with a quick internet search.

I assembled the box using the instructions and everything went fine. I used the 4x paper gasket shims (the 4thicker ones) which CPP recommend and the spacing was spot on. Once all the bearing were installed and the end cap race knocked in I installed the old adjustment screw (the kit screw is too big and I would have had to clearance the selector shaft lug. I counted 5.250 turns clock wise and the same ccw, So my centre was 2.625. I used masking tape to mark the end to end stop marks and then divided the tape into marked quarters. I set the adjustment so there was no free play in the shaft with now interference or binding.

I’ll install the box next weekend and fit my new DC reproduction steering wheel and hopefully she steers like new!

here are the CPP instructions if anyone is looking for them

https://www.classicperform.com/tech_...teeringBox.pdf


this area would have had to be widened to fit the new adjustment screw

New selector gear installed

new bushings honed and seal installed

existing bearing race was left in place as it was unmarked and in really good condition (CPP recommend leaving it if it’s in good condition)

Used masking tape to indicate turning marks

 

Since the bottom end is just about ready to be installed- I need to sort the top end out. Has anyone had any success getting out the bearing pictured below?

How does this come out? Do I hit it from the bottom and push it out? Want to ask the question before I dig into it.

new bearing, spring and retainer from DC.

 

Normally you can just pull the bearing out with your finger but I guess you could tap it from behind if it's really stuck.
I've been watching this post hoping you had some info on how to remove/install the shaft that the sector gear rides on but you had the shop do it. A rebuild is in my future. The last time I rebuilt it I didn't replace that gear but this time I will.

 

That just friction fits in there, you should be able to pop it out.

 

Thanks Hiball & Grapp, I’ll give it a yank.

Hiball-
I followed the CPP instruction to use a carbide rasp bit to remove the flattened end of the pin then drive the pin out with a punch, but it wasn’t that easy for me. I remove a lot of material but the pin would not punch out. To my surprise the machinist had installed the new roller and welded the pin for me otherwise I would have documented it but the CPP instructions are pretty good so I would recommend printing them off and having a read through before you even take the steering box out!

the machinist gave me the old roller and pin and it was obvious that I hadn’t taken enough material off because the pin was still flared out. One thing I didn’t expect was that the factory chamfered end was the side of the pin that had no or very little rolled edge. So I was trying to grind out the chamfered end but really needed to grind the other 3/4 of the pin edge down.

End I removed material off


factory rounded/chamfered end (you can see that the rolled edge is on the opposite side)


you can see that there is quite a bit of rounded material on the ends




factory chamfered end


you can still see on the back side of the factory chamfer there is still a rolled edge. I only thought that the chamfered side was holding the pin in but it’s the opposite- the chamfered side is ok and the other 3/4 of the circumference has the rounded edge


you can see the chamfered end doesn’t have a rolled edge- or at least, very little.


the pin is undersized and rides on needle bearings. This pic shows one of the casings. I’d imagine the other one was trashed along with the needle bearings when the press forced the pin out.


CPP instructions


should have looked at the factory manual! The pin ends are illustrated as rounded🤦‍♂️

 

Dennis,
Thank you so much for the info. When I last rebuilt my box 20 years ago I did everything but the sector gear. I sure wish they had a complete replacement shaft with the gear. I guess the only way to keep the new pin in is welding? I'm not crazy about that idea.
Dennis Carpenter sells a kit and it is probably the same as the CPP.

 

Hiball, no problem happy to help. Even a little bit of information is helpful when you do these things.

i wasn’t too keen on having the pin welded in but I guess it’s the same result as the factory pin, and probably easier if you ever have to remove it again, but hopefully not! It only needs a good penetrating tack on each end to hold it

Im not sure about the DC kit but the CPP kit came with a new steering shaft with worm gear already pressed on which was a pleasant surprise when it turned up as CPP don’t have a photo of the kit on their site. They also do complete rebuilt boxes you just have to send in your old core as a swap. $450 for new box or $260 for rebuild kit. If I was in the US I would have just bought the new box And bolted it in and saved myself the time and hassle of going to the machinist.

 

Pretty sure a completely new sector is available from CHS

 

Who is CHS? or a link.

 

They are an Argentinian company, pretty sure they are one of the base suppliers for CPP, Borgson, Flaming River etc.

https://www.chsauto.com/eng/index.php