Yes, if the filter was plugged, but I've seen filters past twice the scheduled interval and they were fine. Inspecting the filter you can see if there is a lot of trash that made it past the primary. It's typically the primary that really limits flow, often clogged with algae. You stated you pulled the filter and it looked brand new - the fuel pressure will be the same.

The ideal sensor location is next to the regulator.


Bad maintenance or bad tank of fuel. You can inspect under the secondary cap and see if there's a delivery issue.

 

Thanks. Mine looked new and not like a pool filter.

Looking at flushing the oil cooler and am having a hard time finding order of operations.

So here is what I am looking at as options

Back flush cooler
Pull block plugs and flush
Chemical clean system (restore, restore+/VC9)
Install coolant filter

Which of those and in what order to prevent needing to replace the oil cooler?

 

Since I got no responses here is what I plan to do.

I plan to pull the drain plug in the radiator and the both block drains and empty all coolant.

1. Remove thermostat
2. Stick garden hose in degas bottle until it starts over flowing.
3. Start engine and rev until degas bottle is emptied then shut it off and repeat 5 times.
4. Turn off hose
5. Remove lower radiator hose
6. Install oil cooler back flush kit.
7. Back flush oil cooler with water and air pressure.
8. Fill oil cooler with cleaner. Still undecided between cascade with dawn, lime-a-away and CLR
9. Repeat until output is clean
10. Remove flush kit.
11. Install Coolant filter
12. Fill with distilled water. Run and drain. Repeat 3X
13. Drain radiator and lower radiator hose
14. Fill with 3.4 gallons ELC coolant
15. Pray for success.

 

Turn AC off when diagnosing, did you check the EGR since you have a Po404?

 

Serial 8 - I would use them all, one after the other with a flush in between. I'm still thinking about doing this as the delta creeps up and have similar chemicals already purchased, and tested on aluminum.
Serial 15 - repeat as necessary

 

EGR is deleted but I still have the valve in as I understood this helps the fan function properly.

 

Yeah that was kind of my thought as well. I am hoping I can get by without doing a block flush but this is what my block looked like when I did the front plate assembly as the previous owner ran plain green coolant. So I have a feeling I will be fighting debris for a while.

 

Just realized I have an old oil cooler laying around. I think a few trials are due this coming week.

 

So I spent sometime playing around with my old oil cooler.

I flushed it out with water 1st then I let it soak for 2 hours using each of the following.

Vinegar 100%
Tube and Tile 100%
CLR 100%
Cascade with Dawn 50/50 water

I started with that I thought the least aggressive and moved to the most aggressive.

Pretty much everything I got out was magnetic and appears to be rust.

I was also surprised that the tube and tile was the only one that add any adverse effects on the aluminum foil. I soaked a piece in each product for 2 hours as well.

 

Okay back to my original issue.

I spent Saturday morning removing all the grounds and cleaning them and applying grease and putting them back on. Also did this with all the battery terminals.

I spoke to a mechanic and he said based on all the random codes I was pulling I should check my ground. And I remembered that a few weeks prior to my issue I removed the main block ground to remove the AC compressor.

I had been monitoring my battery voltage and key on glow plugs on it would sit around 11.2v cranking it would drop to 9.5v. Idling with everything off it would high 12's. Idling with blowers on and all the lights on it would drop as low as 11.8v. Driving it would run mid 13's.

Sunday I drove after working on the grounds and it was very similar. This morning however when I drove to work at idle it was mid 13's and driving it was low to mid 14's. That sounds a whole lot better. But now I am wondering why the difference from Sunday to Monday. It never has any trouble cranking so I never thought there was any issue. Is there anything that monitors the alternator that varies the output of it?

Thanks
Eric

 

Okay so a quick update. I checked my battery voltage with a volt meter when I got home and both were sitting at 12.7V after sitting for 1 hour after parking. I would say the batteries are fine. I pulled the alternator plug and reinstalled it for the heck of it. This morning voltage only dropped to 10.5 during cranking. On the way to work this morning I had headlights on fog lights on both front and rear blower motors. Driving voltage was sitting around 14.2. Idling at a stop sign it would slowly start to drop. When I parked at work and let it sit, after about 10 seconds it dropped to 12.9. I turned off the fog lights and it went up to 13.1 turned off the head lights and it went up to 13.2. Turned off the rear blower from high and it went to 13.7. Turned off the front blower and it went to 14.1. This was all at a recorded 580rpms.

Do these numbers look good?

 

Does anyone know if I plug the oil cooler output while doing an engine block flush if this will prevent the stuff that is being cleaned out of the block from entering the oil cooler or will this prevent flow to other critical areas of the engine that would need flushed?

@TooManyToys. @cheezit @bismic

 

I would hate to say that it would 100% protect the oil cooler, but it should keep most of the solids away from the oil cooler since the pathway through the oil cooler is blocked. I would probably say it is worth a shot. Hard to guarantee anything on a 6.0L though!

 

Well It was a fun weekend. I ended up using Evapo-Rust Thermocure to flush out the cooling system. Drained the whole system, flushed oil cooler and entire system with tap water. Then drained it again. Filled the oil cooler with evapo-rust and then topped off the system with water and ran for 1 hour to get up to operating temperature. I kept the oil cooler flush kit installed and the valve closed during the 1 hour running. Let it set for an sent for 24 hours and then drained it. Attached is the five gallon bucket of what I caught out of the radiator.


After draining I back flushed the oil cooler for 15 minutes until it flowed clear. I then closed the valve and flushed the entire system until it flowed clear and buttoned everything up after.

Here is so more bad news. During the 1 hour of running the evapo-rust it started hazing. And now today it is smoking really bad. About a month ago I had left the key on for an extended period of time to check some trailer wiring and when I went to start it it was missing and smoking really bad so I knew an injector was on its way out. It just picked an awesome time to do it. So I have not had a chance to drive it to check the oil temps after the flush.

 

Sorry, I hadn't looked at this thread for some time. Yes, that looks normal for a stock alternator.

I had not tried the Evapo-Rust Thermocure as an in-service cleaning product, but have high hopes for it as I use Evapo-Rust all the time for de-rusting items, and while my motor is apart used it to clean the passages in the heads and block, where it worked well. Since the rust dissolving is time-dependent and it's possible to leave behind larger chunks that are broken free, after using the Thremocure I would backflush the cooler.