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Upper Ball Joint - How much play?

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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 03:20 PM
  #1  
Bronco638's Avatar
Bronco638
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From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Question Upper Ball Joint - How much play?

Vehicle: 2004 Ranger XLT 4x4, 4.0/auto

When I lift the front passenger wheel off the ground, I can feel a little play in the upper ball joint. I don't think it's more than a 1/16" but it does move (driver's side doesn't move at all). Is any play acceptable or should the upper control arm be replaced?

Additional info: the truck needs tires and I plan to buy them soon. It's going to need an alignment and I'm guessing this should be addressed before that. Yes?

TIA, Dave.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 05:35 PM
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Once they start to show wear, ball joints can get real bad real fast. On my 2005 ball joint replacement requires a front end alignment as the new joint came with an entire control arm. I special ordered upper control arms that have replaceable ball joints so that next time I will not need the alignment. I will be able to use a ball joint press and remove the ball joint while leaving the control arm untouched.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 07:03 PM
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Kruse
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From: Kansas
Your vehicle is 15+ years old. Do you have the tools, shop space and skills to do the job yourself? If yes, replace everything on that front end that is a wear item and THEN get your alignment and tires. (Fix it even if you have to pay to do it, it's just higher priced)
Fixing only the one part now will be more costly a few months down the road when other parts fail.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 06:56 AM
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Bronco638
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From: Elk Grove Village, IL
Originally Posted by Dan Robertson
Once they start to show wear, ball joints can get real bad real fast. On my 2005 ball joint replacement requires a front end alignment as the new joint came with an entire control arm. I special ordered upper control arms that have replaceable ball joints so that next time I will not need the alignment. I will be able to use a ball joint press and remove the ball joint while leaving the control arm untouched.
I was thinking of doing that but the upper control arm is about the same price as a ball joint. It seems easier to just replace the entire arm.
Originally Posted by Kruse
Your vehicle is 15+ years old. Do you have the tools, shop space and skills to do the job yourself? If yes, replace everything on that front end that is a wear item and THEN get your alignment and tires. (Fix it even if you have to pay to do it, it's just higher priced)
Fixing only the one part now will be more costly a few months down the road when other parts fail.
I can probably do the job myself (but there are competent repair shops nearby). However, it's been a while since I've worked on a Ranger. What else should be considered "wear" parts? Lower ball joints (control arms) and tie-rod ends?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 07:17 AM
  #5  
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Dan Robertson
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It is just as easy to replace the entire control arm but then you will need a front end alignment which will add to the cost. I paid extra and special ordered the upper control arms (I did all four ball joints at once) so that next time I won't need an alignment. My truck had removable lower ball joints anyway. If you have a ball joint press, which is nothing more than a heavy duty aluminum C-clamp with several adapters, replacing just the joint is not difficult.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 07:36 AM
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Kruse
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by Bronco638
I can probably do the job myself (but there are competent repair shops nearby). However, it's been a while since I've worked on a Ranger. What else should be considered "wear" parts? Lower ball joints (control arms) and tie-rod ends?
Having you or your shop do it is your choice as only you know your level of repair expertise. But I'd at least go with the upper control arms, lower ball joints and tie rods. Those parts will affect your alignment. Stabilizer links should also be considered.
Are you keeping your truck a year or several years? This will determine if you get cheapie Chinese parts or something of a better grade. Proforged and Motorcraft are good replacements, Moog Problem Solvers might be riding on their name, but still better than some of the other junk on the market. Still got he factory shock absorbers? They should also be considered.
Of course the auto part stores have the tools you can use, although most of their loaner tools have really been abused. You'll need the ball joint press (glorified C-clamp and accessories), ball joint separator (pickle fork), and assorted hand tools.
Good luck and let us know how your before and after ride feels. New shocks really affect ride quality.
 
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