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CARid. They gave it to me for $474 including shipping for all four wheels. And, contrary to their initial response which said it would be two week delivery, I just got a notice from FedEx that they will arrive on this Tuesday! I got the braided hoses from KLM direct.
2003-11 were all hydro boost in the earlier years, 250/350 and up, duality or single. It wasn’t until the 2017 year hydro boost removed from gas 250s and changes every year.
Gas 250/350 SRW's were not hydroboost. I was looking at DRW gas trucks instead of SRW in 2015/2016 specifically because they got the hydroboost brakes.
Forgive me if I missed it but did you outline how heavy your trailer is? I pull a 44ft toy hauler ( 17000 lbs) and dont feel any lack of stopping power, loaded or unloaded. I do get some "death wabble" under load when braking at hwy speeds but other than that have no complaints. Here is a pic of my trailer for reference.
Yes. I mentioned early on that I’m pulling 16000. So I’m a thousand under your GVWR, but I am usually at or very close to my max weight. With the Kodiak discs on the trailer, I can stop—way, way, way better than the original drum electrics. But when I really notice my brakes being less than comfortable is when they’re not being augmented by my strong trailer brakes and I’m just solo. I stop (fortunately), but I feel the weight of the truck seemingly being more than the capacity of the brakes. And if it’s happening empty, I figure I’d be better off with an upgrade even more so when towing. However, the more I read about slotted and drilled rotors, I am prepared to be mildly disappointed with the results. Although the latest Trailer Life comparison of a before and after Chevy Suburban did show significant improvement both solo and towing with the Powerstop Z36 set. So we will see At least I’ll wind up with an extra set of rotors when I finally warp them in some emergency stop!
Yes. I mentioned early on that I’m pulling 16000. So I’m a thousand under your GVWR, but I am usually at or very close to my max weight. With the Kodiak discs on the trailer, I can stop—way, way, way better than the original drum electrics. But when I really notice my brakes being less than comfortable is when they’re not being augmented by my strong trailer brakes and I’m just solo. I stop (fortunately), but I feel the weight of the truck seemingly being more than the capacity of the brakes. And if it’s happening empty, I figure I’d be better off with an upgrade even more so when towing. However, the more I read about slotted and drilled rotors, I am prepared to be mildly disappointed with the results. Although the latest Trailer Life comparison of a before and after Chevy Suburban did show significant improvement both solo and towing with the Powerstop Z36 set. So we will see At least I’ll wind up with an extra set of rotors when I finally warp them in some emergency stop!
Ok sorry I missed that. Upgraded pads will make the biggest difference. The slotted/drilled rotors will help keep the breaks from over heating which is really important when coming down long hills and mountain passes (this is where I get the wobble ) but I dont know how much they help in daily driving. Looking forward to hearing your review once you pull the trigger.
Hello hwheeler, I have a 2019 F-250 and am also considering PowerStop and am interested in your feedback after you install. Is there a way to connect using private messages?
There probably is although I don’t know how you use that feature of the forum. I will come back (hopefully later this week) and report any improvement or disappointment. I also have steel braided brake lines coming, but they’re a week or two away. Hopefully together I’ll see noticeable improvement.
Thanks hwheeler. I tow a 30' Lance 2465 travel trailer (about 7,300 GVWR) and often in mountains and seeing the article in Trailer Life made me start thinking about braking performance. I look forward to your feedback/review!
I’m almost 9000 lbs heavier and yet have the same brakes as you. So I am very interested in the outcome as well. I’ll report back as soon as I’m finished and tested them out.
Thanks hwheeler. I tow a 30' Lance 2465 travel trailer (about 7,300 GVWR) and often in mountains and seeing the article in Trailer Life made me start thinking about braking performance. I look forward to your feedback/review!
I tow 4K heavier than you and in the Rocky Mountains. Brakes (OEM) haven't been an issue for me. But if someone with a 2017 changes to a different pad and gushes about how much better it stops, I might be tempted to try out something long before my pads are worn enough to replace.
Just to put this out there since I have read it a few times in this thread and wanted to add that drilled rotors and / or slots do not keep the rotor from overheating, or shed heat any better. In fact drilled rotors are actually worse because they remove mass (think heat sink).
The reason that drilled rotors came to be (then later versions of slots) is they allow pad outgassing to vent.
Pad outgassing creates a barrier layer between the pad surface and the rotor surface and doesnt let the pad make proper contact.
As pad technology got better of the years pad outgassing is much less of an issue than it was 20-30 years ago when everyone beliveed you had to have drilled rotors.
What keeps brakes from overheating is (a) rotor mass and (b) cooling air
Drilled rotors may look cool and sporty but at this point its more marketing than science.
Drilled rotors are now known to actually be worse than plain rotors as they remove rotor surface area and rotor mass, that is how slots came to replace drilled holes because they remove less rotor surface and mass than drilled holes.
Before I would buy into a whole bigger brake kit, I would fabricate some simple brake ducts that direct cool air towards the front brakes which will likely solve any overheating issues. This is a very inexpensive & simple thing to fabricate and install vs. purchasing a whole big brake kit.
Tldr: Dont buy into the marketing of drilled or slotted rotors, get ducting, better pads, and/or larger rotors if you are really having genuine overheating.
Just to put this out there since I have read it a few times in this thread and wanted to add that drilled rotors and / or slots do not keep the rotor from overheating, or shed heat any better. In fact drilled rotors are actually worse because they remove mass (think heat sink).
The reason that drilled rotors came to be (then later versions of slots) is they allow pad outgassing to vent.
Pad outgassing creates a barrier layer between the pad surface and the rotor surface and doesnt let the pad make proper contact.
As pad technology got better of the years pad outgassing is much less of an issue than it was 20-30 years ago when everyone beliveed you had to have drilled rotors.
What keeps brakes from overheating is (a) rotor mass and (b) cooling air
Drilled rotors may look cool and sporty but at this point its more marketing than science.
Drilled rotors are now known to actually be worse than plain rotors as they remove rotor surface area and rotor mass, that is how slots came to replace drilled holes because they remove less rotor surface and mass than drilled holes.
Tldr: Dont buy into the marketing of drilled or slotted rotors, get better pads, and/or larger rotors if you are really having genuine overheating, but before I would buy into a whole bigger brake kit, I would fabricate some simple brake ducts that direct cool air towards the front brakes which will likely solve any overheating issues. This is a very inexpensive & simple thing to fabricate and install vs. purchasing a whole big brake kit.
x2 what he said! Just buy good quality pads and skip the Chinese junk.
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