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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:09 AM
  #1  
panteramatt's Avatar
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Brake issue

So I was towing my camper with my 2006 6.0 F350 when I had to get on the brakes and suddenly it pulled hard to the right. It did this the rest of the way to the campground, about 40 miles. Got out and checked and all the wheels were covered in brake dust BUT the front passenger was clean and caliper was cold which should have been the left caliper not working. Truck has all newer discs, pads, fluid and all stainless braided lines. Now I just got home and it stopped perfect the entire way. Thought the pins might have been seized but it shoulda been the left side. What should I look for and why did it start working fine?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 01:33 AM
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Air working it's way thru the system?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by panteramatt
So I was towing my camper with my 2006 6.0 F350 when I had to get on the brakes and suddenly it pulled hard to the right. It did this the rest of the way to the campground, about 40 miles. Got out and checked and all the wheels were covered in brake dust BUT the front passenger was clean and caliper was cold which should have been the left caliper not working. Truck has all newer discs, pads, fluid and all stainless braided lines. Now I just got home and it stopped perfect the entire way. Thought the pins might have been seized but it shoulda been the left side. What should I look for and why did it start working fine?
Start with bleeding them but you might have a bad caliper on that side sounds like
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 09:27 AM
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Clean using WET PROCESS (so you don't inhale all that asbestos from your brakes (also all over roads in the US), Bleed (gravity first, then assisted or by yourself if you have the bleeding equipment (push from master or pull from bleeder) + housekeeping on caliper:

(1) pull guide pins, clean, re-lube with 3M Silicon Paste (alternatively you can use the Permatex synthetic or ceramic pastes but they tend to wash out faster -- generally 5 times faster than the 3M Silicon).........replace rubber seals if needed (DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANTS ON THE GUIDE PINS OR SEALS -- they destroy the seals very quickly). Very often it's just problems with the guide pins that prevent proper cal operation.

(2) Caliper assembly itself -- test for correct piston movement, check seals, lube --- again NO petroleum based lubes. If you pull the banjo bolt, please use a stopper to keep brake fluid from entering the environment.........dirtytirds in the White House just relaxed clean water rules (AGAIN), shafting our kids and the environment.........you can also substitute soft metal washers for the copper variants on the banjo.........on some vehicles these work better than the standard copper.

Could just be a failing caliper -- loads of crap aftermarket stuff out there (e.g. AutoMoan, BehindAuto, NAPPING Auto Parts, etc) and they last maybe 12 months............if replacing go with Motorcraft reman or new (first choice) or Raybestos (new)....... Motocraft warranty is superior (24 vs 18 mths) but the Raybestos coatings hold up better..........

Also since you've been using the daylights out of the other front brake, you've likely introduced more heat there than originally spec'd...........check for warpage, other issues on that side
 
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