Hey guys....newest issue.

Rebuilt my Holley 4160 carb. Got everything set ( float levels, etc) but truck is really hard to start a d acts like it is starving for fuel.
I can dump a Tsp of gas and it'll fire up and run 3 secs and cut off. If I do that a couple of times, then hold the throttle to about 1500 rpm it runs good. Once it warms up, you can back the idle off, but anything lower than about 800-900 rpm and it fades out and dies. If I put it in gear it dies.
Also idling at 1500 rpms or so...it'll pop every now and then.
feels like I have a vacuum leak or something, but cant find anything.

Also...when I try to set my timing to factory setting, it doesnt want to turn over well...acts like its timed really advanced and hot starting.
I did swap in an HEI distributor a few weeks ago.

Any idea on the first issue? Just wanted to mention 2nd issue in case it gave any hints.

 

How did it run before the rebuild?

 

it ran rich and was flooding the secondary a d pushing fuel out of the vent tube.

When I tore the carb down it was full of crap. Previous owner said he had it rebuilt but he lied or someone lied to him.

 

If it were mine I would pull the carb back off and make sure they gave me the correct gasket for the metering block. And make sure all those little passages are clear. Also look at the power valve make sure it has the right gasket there are two different PV's and they use different gaskets. Because it sounds like you went from too rich to too lean.

 

I already did that. When I put the carb on the first time it ran really rich.....like fogging for mosquitos rich. When I pulled the bowl off realized the gasket on the PV wasnt seated and Ineas getting blow by. Replaced the gasket and re-installed.
now this.....

 

What engine are we working on?

Carb issues aside, first I'd make sure your ignition is correct. 99% of carb problems are ignition problems.

Remove the distributor, set the #1 piston to TDC and see what your balancer marker says. If it isnt saying 0* you have another problem. Then back up the balancer (rotate counterclockwise) until the balancer is reading 8* BTDC (or whatever you want your base timing to be).

Reinstall distributor so that the rotor points to the #1 cylinder (lift cap off to see where its pointing). this should get you around 8* (or whatever you choose) base timing at start up and should fix your "hard to start/turnover" problem.

Then I'd check with a timing light to ensure your base timing and also check your total timing.

From there we can get back to the carb. cool?

 

Just a reminder, the 4160 runs off 2ndary metered vacuum, on both of my 65's the vac. advance is connected to the metered port, located below the idle adjustment and if I am not sure whether the timing is set at TDC I remove #1 plug, place finger in the opening and rotate the engine until compression forces my finger out of the opening, I then stop and check the position of the timing mark and the location of the rotor which should be on or near #1 spark plug, if not, then I lift the distributor enough to rotate the distributor gear. Once the engine is running I then fine tune keeping in mind any adjustment with timing will effect idle mixture and vice-versa.

 

From what you describe it sounds like you are getting some fuel through the transition circuit but little to none through the idle circuit. Rather than typing a book and guessing at your problem. I suggest you go to youtube and look at the carb videos from Summit or Jegs. And while you have it apart get a piece of sandpaper on a good flat surface and make sure your base plate isn't warped.

 

I’m assuming you used a new base gasket, make sure the gasket completely covers the base of the carb and creates a good seal to the intake.

 

Thanks for the insight and tips.
I was helping my brother-in-law install a lift on his Jeep yesterday so I didn't get a chance to do anything to the truck.
I'll take a look at all the suggestions and start trying to single things out.

I'll let you know what I come up with.

 

Managed to get it started and running enough to try and set the timing.
Turns out I had about 25 degrees of timing in it which is why it was acting like I had too much timing...haha.

Got it set at about 10 degrees and it's running like a charm. Also got rid of that nasty knock that I thought I had in the bottom end from the previous distributor / oil pump issue. A little fine tuning later and it'll be running great.

For now, it's time to tackle that rusty / leaking fuel tank and get the floor pans welded in. Of course, cleaning all that stuff up leads to finding more rust that you realized you had. For now, it's got a 5 gallon bucket seat and a 5 gallon plastic fuel tank so I can move it around the yard to work on it.

Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll be back later.

One more question.....I know I have a FE engine, but not sure it's the original engine based on ordering some sensor and things that don't match up. Can I see the engine stamping on the block without pulling it? For now, I can't seem to locate it / see it so I can determine exactly what engine is in the truck. It was an original 352 truck, but I was told it was a 390 now....of course, that's what they all say. It does have a C6 transmission, so wondering if they swapped in the engine from that donor as well.

 

Awesome. I said it before and I'll say it again: timing first, then carb. Most people just want to tweak on the carb and it's usually not the right move. Glad you got it settled!

 

The challenge was to get it idling enough to actually check the timing!! Haha..
Thanks again for the help