Crank no start no injector clatter
#106
Did you try plugging the block heater in for 8-10 hours and then attempt a start?
AutoNation White Bear Lake sells their OEM injectors for around $180 (part # 4C3Z-9E527-BRM):
Do NOT go cheap on injectors. Even if you do not keep the truck, it is just not right to put in crap parts just to get it running to sell.
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...e-4c3z9e527brm
The only times I have seen 8 bad injectors due to spool valve issues are:
1. An electrical event to ruin the coils.
2. A set of 8 bad remans (yes it happens - 8 bad injectors from an after market remanufacturer).
3. Oil contamination (or bad oil maintenance) that caused all 8 to stick.
4. A bad FICM (clearly you have tried new FICMs that still do the same thing)
5. Low system voltage
Buying a good injector is a good idea if you have the money, but you can also remove one injector (drivers side is easiest), and then remove the coils and see if the spool valve is stuck. It isn't all that difficult of a job.
I really do not like PowerStrokeHelp.com, but he has a video out on a shop that really did mess over the owner .... and they eventually contaminated the oil and caused all 8 injectors to not "click" (or they installed 8 bad injectors). His mechanic shows how to remove the coils and inspect the spool valves.
I'll look for that video and will post it.
Edit - here it is. Look at the 22 minute mark for the injector work on the spool valve:
AutoNation White Bear Lake sells their OEM injectors for around $180 (part # 4C3Z-9E527-BRM):
Do NOT go cheap on injectors. Even if you do not keep the truck, it is just not right to put in crap parts just to get it running to sell.
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...e-4c3z9e527brm
The only times I have seen 8 bad injectors due to spool valve issues are:
1. An electrical event to ruin the coils.
2. A set of 8 bad remans (yes it happens - 8 bad injectors from an after market remanufacturer).
3. Oil contamination (or bad oil maintenance) that caused all 8 to stick.
4. A bad FICM (clearly you have tried new FICMs that still do the same thing)
5. Low system voltage
Buying a good injector is a good idea if you have the money, but you can also remove one injector (drivers side is easiest), and then remove the coils and see if the spool valve is stuck. It isn't all that difficult of a job.
I really do not like PowerStrokeHelp.com, but he has a video out on a shop that really did mess over the owner .... and they eventually contaminated the oil and caused all 8 injectors to not "click" (or they installed 8 bad injectors). His mechanic shows how to remove the coils and inspect the spool valves.
I'll look for that video and will post it.
Edit - here it is. Look at the 22 minute mark for the injector work on the spool valve:
#107
BTW - I hate the thought of most people working on those spool valves. It needs to be done carefully, parts in the correct orientation, and the proper torque needs to be applied. There have been a number of posts about the threaded pin/bolt shaft breaking or the nuts coming off - while driving.
Couple of other questions:
How many miles on the truck?
Is the crank "even"? When cranking, it should be a constant speed crank.
Couple of other questions:
How many miles on the truck?
Is the crank "even"? When cranking, it should be a constant speed crank.
#108
Are you still at the no injector clatter/no start spot?
years and years ago I had a 6.0 with this problem. I wasn’t getting power to a relay Under the hood. I assume it was for FICM, again, years ago I’m not 100% sure now.
I was able to apply 12v to the lead where the relay plugged in. Turned the key. Had the clatter. Truck fired right up.
I am trying to upload a pic of the relay but my phone is being a POS.
years and years ago I had a 6.0 with this problem. I wasn’t getting power to a relay Under the hood. I assume it was for FICM, again, years ago I’m not 100% sure now.
I was able to apply 12v to the lead where the relay plugged in. Turned the key. Had the clatter. Truck fired right up.
I am trying to upload a pic of the relay but my phone is being a POS.
#109
#110
finally got it to up load. What I ended up doing since I was alone and without a power probe I took a small wire from the + post on the battery looped it around the prong on that leg of the relay and put the relay back in place. That’s when I got the clatter back and it ran fine. I can’t remember where the issue was but I’m 99% sure it was a damaged wire somewhere. This is going back 8 years or so ago.
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#111
I just had an issue with an international bucket truck. Relay clicked so we assumed it was good. We were chasing our tails trying to figure it out. Ended up swapping out that said relay and problem was solved. Totally unrelated to this 6.0 but I’ve come to not really trust “clicks” to assume a relay is working correctly
#112
#113
There’s a thread here somewhere about these relays. I took one apart and showed the contacts and I think I showed where Ford got a new design. I’m pretty sure the majority feel these should be replaced every 100k.
While the latching coil can fail, the biggest issue is the pitting of the contacts causing high resistance. They wear out.
While the latching coil can fail, the biggest issue is the pitting of the contacts causing high resistance. They wear out.
#115
thank you all for your comments while I have been absent I apologize as I've been dealing with a custody battle fighting for my children and haven't had the time to mess with this truck or post.
II did try the block heater method but not for 8 hours only for a few hours until I saw that it was hot.doing all of that also didn't make sense to me since it had been at temperature the last time I had it running. it was running fine after a stumbling start drove it for about 20 minutes got home shut it off and immediately tried to restart it and got nothingknothing on engine off no clatter from then on when the trip m truck was already at temp.
My ileage mileage is 260,000
I have not changed out that relay I will be going to ford today for one.
So basically I can jump the electrical connections at the relay to see if I can get clatter?
I replaced the entire injector harness as well
Went thru 3 ficms all the same results no clatter.
Thank you guys again much love, I appreciate everything!
I'll Get back to you guys soon,
Adam
II did try the block heater method but not for 8 hours only for a few hours until I saw that it was hot.doing all of that also didn't make sense to me since it had been at temperature the last time I had it running. it was running fine after a stumbling start drove it for about 20 minutes got home shut it off and immediately tried to restart it and got nothingknothing on engine off no clatter from then on when the trip m truck was already at temp.
My ileage mileage is 260,000
I have not changed out that relay I will be going to ford today for one.
So basically I can jump the electrical connections at the relay to see if I can get clatter?
I replaced the entire injector harness as well
Went thru 3 ficms all the same results no clatter.
Thank you guys again much love, I appreciate everything!
I'll Get back to you guys soon,
Adam
#116
You’ve been thru 3 FICMs, id rule that out at this point, yes you can jump out relays if you know what you’re doing. That picture I posted you can see where it says “no power” is where I jumped it out from.
I was dealing with another relay issue today on a asphalt roller....sent power where the relay plugs in for the starter and it fired right up. But turning the key did nothing.
turns out a park brake switch was the culprit. Totally separate again from your issue, but sometimes a power probe can be your best friend
I was dealing with another relay issue today on a asphalt roller....sent power where the relay plugs in for the starter and it fired right up. But turning the key did nothing.
turns out a park brake switch was the culprit. Totally separate again from your issue, but sometimes a power probe can be your best friend
#117
You’ve been thru 3 FICMs, id rule that out at this point, yes you can jump out relays if you know what you’re doing. That picture I posted you can see where it says “no power” is where I jumped it out from.
I was dealing with another relay issue today on a asphalt roller....sent power where the relay plugs in for the starter and it fired right up. But turning the key did nothing.
turns out a park brake switch was the culprit. Totally separate again from your issue, but sometimes a power probe can be your best friend
I was dealing with another relay issue today on a asphalt roller....sent power where the relay plugs in for the starter and it fired right up. But turning the key did nothing.
turns out a park brake switch was the culprit. Totally separate again from your issue, but sometimes a power probe can be your best friend
#119
hey guys, long time! i am going to move forward and install new injectors on the truck. I belive the spool valves are seized. looking for recommendations for reman injectors. I found a shop that can do the labor for about 800-900 so im thinking to keep the thing and just work my butt off the next couple weeks to afford the work... any legit sites you guys can recommend? thanks in advanced!
-Adam
P.S.
I pluged it in for 8-10 hrs and still nothing. i wanna belive the spool valves on all 8 injectors are seized up. I never mentioned before i added Shaffer fuel treatment the week it died. im sure that could have been a culprit. let me know your thoughts! thanks again!
-Adam
P.S.
I pluged it in for 8-10 hrs and still nothing. i wanna belive the spool valves on all 8 injectors are seized up. I never mentioned before i added Shaffer fuel treatment the week it died. im sure that could have been a culprit. let me know your thoughts! thanks again!