Battery discharging?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
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Battery discharging?
'97 E150, 5.4L
New battery and alternator, but if I leave the van in the driveway for three or four days the battery goes dead. Today, after sitting for a week, I measured 1.5V! This is probably what killed the last battery.
What would you say are the likely culprits? Stuck relay? Bad starter solenoid or starter? Leaking regulator?
I guess I'll just leave the negative lead disconnected until I need the van.
New battery and alternator, but if I leave the van in the driveway for three or four days the battery goes dead. Today, after sitting for a week, I measured 1.5V! This is probably what killed the last battery.
What would you say are the likely culprits? Stuck relay? Bad starter solenoid or starter? Leaking regulator?
I guess I'll just leave the negative lead disconnected until I need the van.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
If the batteries were brand new, installed and the vehicle not run as a daily driver the small residual charge in the battery when new isn't enough to sustain a week or more of no charging from the alternator. Its highly helpful to check and note the CCA reading of the new battery.
There might also be some sort of parasitic drain causing this---there are numerous YouTube videos on this topic. I have two favorites but most are good enough to help determine if this condition exists. Depending on your skill or experience with automotive electrical systems determining this is either easy or a bit more complex than some are willing to dig into. It does require a digital multi-meter that can read in the milliamp ranges.
HTH
There might also be some sort of parasitic drain causing this---there are numerous YouTube videos on this topic. I have two favorites but most are good enough to help determine if this condition exists. Depending on your skill or experience with automotive electrical systems determining this is either easy or a bit more complex than some are willing to dig into. It does require a digital multi-meter that can read in the milliamp ranges.
HTH
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I brought the new battery home and charged it before installing. 750 CCA. After charging yesterday the load test says it's good.
Somehow the battery in my Toyota can hold a charge for a few days if the car is not driven.
Oddly enough, I measured across the two main power leads. The resistance slowly climbs to 1500 Ohms in normal polarity and 350 Ohms in reversed polarity. This suggests some sort of reactive load. I have a good Fluke meter and the EVTM. What I don't have is the time and patience to test every circuit. I'll just leave the common lead disconnected until I need to drive the van.
Somehow the battery in my Toyota can hold a charge for a few days if the car is not driven.
Oddly enough, I measured across the two main power leads. The resistance slowly climbs to 1500 Ohms in normal polarity and 350 Ohms in reversed polarity. This suggests some sort of reactive load. I have a good Fluke meter and the EVTM. What I don't have is the time and patience to test every circuit. I'll just leave the common lead disconnected until I need to drive the van.
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Cross-Country
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I was hoping that someone with more experience might point me to what has been known to cause this not just point me to YouTube where most videos jam five minutes of useful information into 30 minutes of video.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
You seem to be hell bent ignoring the information help offered so far so not sure trying to help you is worth the time or effort. I've had battery issues 100% due parasitic draw, diagnosed it with a known technique, found and repair the problem in about 10 seconds.
Best of luck on solving your issue!
Best of luck on solving your issue!
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Logistics Pro
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I mentioned in my post above about my parasitic draw issue. I attempted to find it myself, but I’m not a mechanic or electrician, so quite frankly didn’t trust my own work. Needless to say, I was not successful.
Took it to the dealer; they found the issue in a day. Problem was a fee broken wires somewhere. In yhe end, it may be easier to pay someone to do it for you
that being said, I had bookmarked this video when I was messing around with it. Might help.
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Okay I found the time to check it out today. The initial draw was almost an amp, settling at 0.3A after a few seconds. Removing fuse #8 from the power distribution box left the draw at a normal 15mA. This fuse feeds 8 fuses in the interior fuse panel. I removed fuse #4 to disable the door switch, as there is no easy way to hold it closed while the door is open.
I found the leak at fuse #17. The odd thing is that this fuse is, "not used."
This is an Explorer conversion van. I have no idea what they might have put on this circuit, and they're not telling. I did notice when I started the van that the radio is back to its mystery behavior of coming on, showing volume on the bar graph, but making no sound.
I found the leak at fuse #17. The odd thing is that this fuse is, "not used."
This is an Explorer conversion van. I have no idea what they might have put on this circuit, and they're not telling. I did notice when I started the van that the radio is back to its mystery behavior of coming on, showing volume on the bar graph, but making no sound.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Nashville, TN
I finally had to disconnect the factory radio in my 2000. It would come on ramdomly even with the key off. The van would sit a day then I'd walk by and hear the radio playing. Would drain the battery. After pulling the fuse, battery life if back to normal.
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I need to check out what accessory Explorer might have connected on fuse #17. There's an entertainment system in the back, separate radio, TV with DVD player, etc.. There's also a CD changer which cannot read discs. All this stuff is on a separate fuse box in back.
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The mystery deepens. I went out for a drive to complete a drive cycle. The van ran nicely. But, when I got home and connected my scanner the OBD socket was dead. How could removing a fuse which is, "not used," cause this?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The OBD-II date link connector is fused off the power port or cigar lighter power supply--check and replace those as needed.
You honestly need to find an EVTM for your year and model van or at minimum the Owner's Manual which has a fuse chart and rating section for DIY's. That is NOT a substitute for an actual EVTM but its better than guessing.
You honestly need to find an EVTM for your year and model van or at minimum the Owner's Manual which has a fuse chart and rating section for DIY's. That is NOT a substitute for an actual EVTM but its better than guessing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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the linked thread has posts with links to various fuse box diagrams in case one of those helps
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1465793-fuses.html