I finished my install over the weekend so I've added a 4" exhaust, RiffRaff OCR, EGT/Boost/Fuel gauges, and a Hydra. No issues installing anything or programing the Hydra.

My PCM is a NVK2 box code and using the recommended calibration of VNAAAS3 using the box/hex tool in HydraFlash.

The available calibrations seem to be rather limited for my calibration (5 high idle, whisper, 2 DD, 3 Tow, and then +80, 100, 120, 140 performance) , ignoring the various levels of high idles and only adding one 1100 rpm one I didn't even have enough programs to fill the chip's 15 slots and there were none available for modified valve bodies (I have a JW waiting to be installed)...I absolutely want to be able to switch on the fly, particularly between a high idle, Daily, and tow tunes once I can narrow down which ones I like best...am I stuck with only the limited VNAAAS3 programs that are available in HyrdaFlash?

Also in a couple of the tunes, I think the +80 and +100 HP Performance I had an issue after letting off at WOT where my RPM's would sink low (like 200 rpm) and then bounce high (like 8-900) a few times until I tapped the skinny pedal again and it smoothed out...is that surge or is that an issue with the tuning? The DD tunes and the Tow tunes did not behave that way.

 

Use VRAA6S3

 

Awesome! I will give it a try this afterrnoon!

Thanks!

What are your thoughts about the strange RPM behavior after coming off the gas from WOT? Is that tuning or do I have another problem brewing? It seemed to happen in the canned "performance" tune but didn't do it in the Daily Driver tunes

 

Rpm drop after WOT most certainly in the tuning.
​​​​​..Or there is a possibility that HPOP or IPR struggles to maintain desired idle ICP after WOT..

 

Good point...I'm about to go out and reprogram it using the VRAA6S3 calibration cleatus12r suggested and will see if it does it in similar tunes again...IIRC the +80 DD was fine but the +80/+100 Performance were the ones it happened in...I didn't have the ***** to go to any of the hotter tunes as the +100 was pushing 1300* EGT's

If it happens again I'll try to pull some data with forscan to see if its an HPOP issue

 

VRAA6S3 Codes worked like a charm and had all I needed. I did have an issue when I loaded the 100HP Race tune, it killed the truck and wouldn't restart until I switched it back to a different tune. Honestly probably a sign it's a tune I don't really need so I just deleted it. I think I like the 65 DD and the 80 Performance the best so far.

 

Josh, is your turbo stock? I'm interested to hear what you experience in terms of noise with the 6637, and with performance with and without your trailer using the Hydra.

 

Bone stock except the red line mod but in good shape, no wear on the fins/shaft play, stock uppies that still don't leak, stock boots and clamps still for now. I haven't had a ton of time to play with it yet save for a few WOT pulls up and down a stretch of highway nearby ... I'll be towing with it next Monday for the first time so I can't comment at all on that yet.

I see turbo upgrades in my NEAR future. It definitely runs hot, even in the +80 performance I can get to 12-1300 EGT under WOT pretty damn quick. I maxed out around 26-27 psi boost. The blowoff sounds for shifts, especially when the TC locks up in the performance tune was much louder, but not obnoxious, but previously I'd max around 17psi boost with stock tuning and just the redline mod. I also switched out my donaldson blue 6637 filter for an AFE Big Boost and since I've done it all at once its hard to pinpoint what accounts for what...I can definitely hear it sucking way more air while its building boost even under normal acceleration in the Daily Driver tunes

 

You should check that you installed a 100 tune with the same hex code as the rest. The truck stalling when switching tunes is a tell-tale sign that that tune is a different hex code. There is nothing wrong with the hotter tunes. The 140 is the smoothest in my opinion.
Also, you keep saying that your stock up pipes / boots / clamps do not leak, but you are hitting 1200-1300 EGTs with just a "100 hp" tune. Might want to look into that some more.

 

cleatus12r, I'm in the same boat as MD 7.3, wondering why so few tunes?
So I did some searching and found this post and one from an old post of yours.

I guess this is all still true? Why do think they don't show it an option?

"Use VRAA6S3. Even though it's not a direct correlation it will work just fine. The difference between the two is nothing more than the way the PCM detects glow plug faults. Obviously you will notice far different driving characteristics between what your factory PCM does and what the "wrong" calibration will do but it's normal. (Not speaking for what your current F5 tuning is doing.)

I think technically, PHP's library has a stash of VNAA8K8 calibrations but don't take it as gospel. These will be a direct replacement for your current hardware.

By using VRAA6S3, you will have access to the most refined calibrations on the HydraFlash server due to the popularity of the calibration. Just be sure to order VRAA6S3 calibrations from the vendor of your choice should you decide to try tuning from a company other than PHP so you can maintain switch-on-the-fly capability if you decide to go this route."

Thanks,

 

THIS!
my truck is largely stock with reliability mods only. RR wheel is only thing with turbo. I pulled a 8k trailer all weekend up the biggest hill in N MS 🤔 😂 for about 600 miles. Never saw > 1050 in cruise on 65... most of time running 60hp tow tune and averaging 700-750 F on reasonably level ground.
I DID get a romp when I was close to WOT and somebody pulled out in front of me after a stop light and had to completely let off, but it only happened that one time.