When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a fuel leak that appears to be at the lid of the fuel filter housing. Hard to be sure but that's what it seems. I have Battled that before and even replaced
the lid. Odd that it's been ok for awhile and now starting to leak.
Couple dumb questions. Is it possible the whole fuel bowl assembly is bad? Some how won't seal even with new cap.
second question does the engine have to be running for it to leak, or forbtest purpose will it leak with key on?
i need the truck so was wondering if the after market filter and lid might be worth a try
thanks Joe
How do the mating surfaces look on the lid and on the bowl?
The fuel pump will cycle for about 20 seconds with the key on and engine off, pressurizing the bowl. That might not be long enough with a slow leak to see it.
As BWST said the pump will cycle for 20 seconds or so when you turn the key to ON to pressurize the system (you can hear it running as it’s on the inside of the frame under the driver).
The best way to spot an active leak is a good flashlight and inspection mirror while the truck is idling.
Bob at dieselorings.com sells replacement o-rings for the bowl, either individually or as a reseal kit. His web page also has a good picture of where all the o-rings are on the bowl.
The OEM o-rings are rubber which will degrade over time and the ones Bob sells are viton which have a much longer lifespan.
Yeah change the fuel filter and mind the o ring orientation.
I recently went to a combo filter/lid Wix filer in place of the Racor separate OE filter/lid setup. Stopped my fuel seep at the bowl but at the cost of few # of fuel pressure.
Update.
Yesterday spent some time with it and was 99% sure it was leaking at the cover. Was able to put my fingers on back side of lid and feel fuel there. Changed filter and was careful about the orings. Leaked seemed to have stopped. We took a 20 mile drive yesterday and it seemed dry around the lid. This am got to work and I can feel it there again on back side of lid. I tightened it up a little more with my oil filter wrench and will see if that helps. But how much should you have to lean on that?
In the past the drain valve orings been replaced and I believe my mechanic replaced all the orings on the fuel bowl.
i replaced the lid with an OEM one a couple years ago. If I can't solve this I will let my mechanic buddy look at it again.
i appreciate any more thought
The OEM lid is a bit awkward to tighten up. Some use a punch and carefully tap it around tight. An oil filter wrench with a swivel handle can do it. With the lid gasket oriented correctly and lubed with fuel, I used channel-locks in the lid grooves to tighten it up. I'd prefer a more positive engaging tool than that though, to get a feel for tightness.
I did it similar to an oil filter. I tightened it until the surfaces touched and then gave it a bit more. The o-rings should do the work as the pressure boundary.
Too much and you can crack the lid or bowl. I used to use a punch or small piece of wood and tap the lid to remove or install it (see my last sentence) and went to the OTC tool after I replaced the bowl.
Yeah change the fuel filter and mind the o ring orientation.
I recently went to a combo filter/lid Wix filer in place of the Racor separate OE filter/lid setup. Stopped my fuel seep at the bowl but at the cost of few # of fuel pressure.
@aawlberninf350 Why do you think you lost some pressure with that filter? That's surprising to me.