Its been a while since I've had time to post on the site but since the oil crash, I have plenty of time so I decided to get started on a project that's been on the back burner.

Here's my truck as she sat.



2008 F350 CCLB with the 5.4 and zf6, she's pulled way more than she should but has never been happy about it.

Donor is a 99 Dodge 5.9 24 valve 2500




The best part of a donor truck destined for the scrap heap is cutting stuff out of the way.



Bought my conversion parts from DCS, using their exhaust manifold I had to clock the turbo and use a different wastegate. Paid a welding buddy of mine to cut the hot side and weld it back on about 90ish degrees.






Nothing like shiny parts. Used a 6.4 starter and alternator for this.





Here you can see the need to clock the hot side of the trubo.



5.9 and a rebuilt 6.4 zf6 mated together. Silly me thought I would be able to use the clutch fork from my gas zf6 but that was not the case. Went on a nine hour round trip road trip across state lines to get the right one same day, would have had to wait half a week to get one shipped in.



5.4



What 5.4?



Diesel zf6 is 2" longer than the gas version. Luckily the frame already had the holes to shift the trans crossmember back.



Home sweet home.



Couldn't have made it this far without my trusty cherry picker and buddies giving me a hand.



Dropped drive shafts off to get rebuilt today, starting on wiring and fuel tomorrow.

 

Very nice, seems well thought out. I would be looking for a “Cummins” valve cover though.

 

So awesome! Thanks for posting. Curious how it goes w gauges

 

It sounds like you work that truck, so I'd recommend you reconfigure your turbo so your oil feed and drain are as vertical as possible. The way it is now, oil is not gonna drain fully from the center cartridge and it'll cook onto the bearings if your not religious with turbo cool down before shutting it off. Or keep your eye out for a spare turbo and see how long it last.

 

The good thing about the 24V cover is its solid aluminum, so you could just grind, or mill, the Dodge off, which will leave a nice big flat pad, then get a Ford badge/sticker or have it painted on.

 

Speed Freak, Its something I'll have to keep an eye on. This is the smaller HY35 turbo that came on autos so I am looking for another in the future but its not in the budget right now. All the adapters and whatnot have eaten me alive on this so far, I've spent a lot more at DCS than I did buying the whole dodge truck haha.

 

At some point I'll just get the cummins cover, I've seen them new for $140.

 

Thanks for waiting, went on an impromptu vacation with the family but back in the swing now.

Yesterday I pulled the electric throttle off and installed dcs' kit.









Drilled a hole about two inches up from steering shaft bolt and ran the throttle cable in to the bracket and adjusted and tightened the pedal.
I forgot to take a picture of it but I pulled the fuel tank from both trucks and pulled the Fass pump off the donor and mocked it up on my truck. I attempted to run the 5.9 off the 5.4 fuel pump but it did not supply enough fuel and it would stall out after a minute of idling. Gutted my fuel pump and ran a new hose from the top plate down in to the tank where the pump used to be and cut v notches in it so it can't suck down to the bottom of the tank. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

Here's a video of the first start up.

phbAcRd.mp4

Today I went on a junk run with a buddy. I bought a 6.4 radiator and is now too big to fit the dodge intercooler so "new" parts were needed. Landed an intercooler with 6.4 piping and air intake box, 6.0 intake box, and 7.3 intercooler piping. And some random battery trays, hydro boost, and doodads.







Pulled the vac booster, I am going to finish wiring before I install the hydro boost so I have more room. I need to get back there to wire the tach helper that read off the crank position sensor.

Unfortunately the 6.4 air box doesn't fit due to my a/c lines and no good spot for the 6.0 one. I grabbed this tube off something and I will stick a 4" cone filter on it for now till I can rig something up. It is going to be tight here with the air filter, turbo piping on top of that, and the a/c lines that haven't been made yet.





Another unfortunate is that the 6.4 driver side battery tray has the integrated coolant bottle on it and it sticks out further and hits the 5.9 air horn. I took the gas air box with it's smaller coolant bottle and cut the side out to fit a battery and installed that to fit.

Plan for tomorrow is to pick up/install my driveshafts, fill trans/transfer case, and pick up a small fuse block and finish wiring. After that I should be able to start and stop the truck like normal with the key. Looks like the PCM should still control the grid heater solenoids as normal so I will need to find somewhere to mount those an test those if I have time tomorrow also.

 

The site doesn't seem to like videos from imgur, it won't load the start up video.

Edit
Uploaded to YouTube.

 

I'm always surprised by how well swaps from other manufacturers work. Seems like there'd be a lot of issues with electronics doing a swap like this.

Looking good so far!

 

Picked up parts and my drive shaft today and others were delivered by the Fedex man.
Here's the belt that I am using with the 6.4 alternator.





Seems like a good fit with the tensioner at mid travel.
Removed the engine harness from the 5.4. I am keeping the temp sensor, oil pressure, and crankshaft position sensor, the rest was cut out.







I wired up a little fuse block with switched ko power and a relay for the injection pump so the truck will actually shut off when I turn the key. It's a strange feeling to turn the key off and the motor keeps going lol. They didn't have a relay base so I had to temp up some spade connectors, good for mock up and testing at least.



I also wired up this tach helper, it ties into the 5.9's crank position signal and feeds to my 5.4 harness on the old crank sensor wires, seems to be working on an idle test, little jerky though. I might need to actually solder the connections as they recommend, but I couldn't find my solder so I used water proof butt splices.



Popped the hydro boost in and of course the vac boost brake pedal doesn't line up with the arm. I will have to either make this work or grab one out of the junkyard. And of course the dodge line to the ford hydro doesn't connect, hopefully I can find something in town or I'll have to have DCS send me one.



And here's the pic of the fuel tank I did yesterday.

 

Thanks! If you didn't care about everything working on the dash you could slap this in with little electrics connecting. Ford pulls the speed off the rear axle and the dodge ECM will control the motor by itself (or 12 valve it for no electronics). I will be connecting the dodge obd port in this truck as well so I should be able to read all the motor data as well.
Swap helper makes modules to get the tach and cruise working.

I've been using these sites for figuring the wiring out. It's really not bad once you dive in, the ecm really doesn't need much to run.

DIY 24v Wiring

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/art...maps-r469/#a16

 

I've seen a lot of people use this air horn to have more room and also it allows for a better shot at the intercooler. I was planning on running one on my Common Rail swap.