Here is something anybody Upgrading a non alternator FoMoCo to an alternator charging system needs to know. Unlike the older Generators, alternators require the fields be "exctied" in order to induce alternating curent they're supposed to produce.

In FoMoCo w/ Alternators fields are excited as the engine starts through ignition switch, or starter solenoid, at least on the 60s & 70s vehicles, and depending on which vehicle.

There are easy ways to incorporate pulse/ flash req'd to excite Alternator on start up. I use temporary Ignition pole on front of 4 terminal Starter Solenoid. It "flashes" fields to excite them & get a charge going when engine fires, as key is released. I find this the easiest way. An additional wire is run from temp ign pin to Fld in Alt harness, or to Fld terminal @ alternator.

Another method is to install a push button inside vehicle. Wire it from a hot terminal w/ Key On to one side of Push Button, wire from other side of push button to Fld terminal.

With this set up button must be pushed in & released quickly after engine fires. ALternator will then produce proper current. Only draw back to push button method is driver/operator has to remember to push Button & flash fileds or else no charge takes place. . . . FBp

 

would the voltage regulator being bad mess with my new alt?and how could i check the voltage regulator?it's only $10 so i could just go and get one,but in my money situation im trying not to replace parts that could wait to be replaced.sorry for all the stupid questions,this stuff gets complicated for a newbie .but anything helps.one more,if my truck is starting could the alt still be hooked up wrong.im thinking(hoping)that theres a wire somewhere it isnt supposed to be on my alt,maybe i crossed one.let me know.

thanks Sean

 

Sean, With the "smoke check" you were doing on the starter relay, I would almost bet the fuseable link in cooked. Thats good, it is supposed to fail when excessive current is flowing in the system. Find the fuseable link and replace it with a new link or some 12 gage wire. Check all the connections and have the alternator tested. Most parts people do this for free. Charge the battery, either in a car or on a charger then test the battery. ou need to isolate the problem before you start swapping out parts. Testing with a "known good" is an acceptable method.

 

where excatly would the fusable link be..i replaced a fat bl/blue stripe wire with 8 guage wire and some heavy duty crimps.this wire was rigged up to the ground and had a wad of elctrical tape around it so i replaced it and grounded it next to the battery ground..

thanks Sean

 

OK found out fusable links weren't used till '68. Had my voltage regulator checked and found out it was bad. So bought a new one and put it in and whamo!! no alternator light inside and seems to be doing fine. I think I'm gonna look into that one wire alternator soon.

Thank you, Sean

 

I've had good luck since I installed a 351W in my 63.
I converted it to an alt. and to Duraspark electronic ignition. It looks pretty factory. There are some photos in my 63 gallery.
Jimmy

 

OKAY! New rule, "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Drive this truck, finish school, drink imported beer, marry well, later buy a show truck and haul it around on a trailer. Naw! forget that show truck stuff, the rest is good.

 

Having starter problems. Mine was working, and now is "clicking like crazy" as you refered to it. I replaced the starter solenoid, and no change. Seems like if the starter was toast, it wouldn't do the clicking thing.

Any ideas?