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F1/F3 Decode

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Old May 18, 2020 | 10:43 AM
  #1  
Marlyse Bingham's Avatar
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F1/F3 Decode

Hello I just bought a 1951 ford truck yesterday. My title has 2 vin numbers listed. The seller mentioned the truck bed is probably a 52. Anyway these numbers are:

F141MP16905
F3R1KC20554

Can anyone help me decode this??

Thank you in advance!
 
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Old May 19, 2020 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Marlyse Bingham
Hello I just bought a 1951 ford truck yesterday. My title has 2 vin numbers listed. The seller mentioned the truck bed is probably a 52. Anyway these numbers are:

F141MP16905
F3R1KC20554

Can anyone help me decode this??

Thank you in advance!
Is this a pickup, F1 or F3?
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 10:47 AM
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F1, hence my confusion.
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 03:52 PM
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Posts moved from Large Truck. OP had this in a decode thread, and we were waiting for the return of Numberdummy.

However, I think some folks in this forum have a decoder ring for this era of trucks, and so here we are.

Thanks and good luck with your trucks!
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 05:02 PM
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Welcome to the forum, Marlyse! Congratulations on your new truck. It's odd that you would have two VIN's listed on your certificate of title. The two numbers are vastly different, and one is not consistent with the code.

Let's start by breaking down the code. The first two characters are the series code, F1 or F3. Next should be a letter for the engine code. R= 239 V8. There is no code 4, so that leaves another question. The other option for a pickup would be H for 226 6 cylinder. Next is the year code. Both of your numbers are 1, so at least we have that much in common, 1951. The next two letters are the assembly plant code. One of your numbers has MP for Memphis, TN, and the other is KC, Kansas City. The rest of the numbers is the consecutive unit number, assigned at the factory when the order was processed.

If you can post pictures of your truck, that can be helpful. There should be a number stamped on the top of the frame rail near the motor mount on the passenger side if you look under the hood. Hopefully it corresponds to one of your title numbers. There should also be a tag in the glove box on the inside of the glovebox door. There may also be a tag on the firewall near the passenger side hood hinge. Both tags should also have the VIN stamped on them. After 70 years, right or wrong, it's not uncommon to find tags moved from one truck to another due to lost or found paperwork. Let us know what you find. I hope this helps.
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Welcome to the forum, Marlyse! Congratulations on your new truck. It's odd that you would have two VIN's listed on your certificate of title. The two numbers are vastly different, and one is not consistent with the code.

Let's start by breaking down the code. The first two characters are the series code, F1 or F3. Next should be a letter for the engine code. R= 239 V8. There is no code 4, so that leaves another question. The other option for a pickup would be H for 226 6 cylinder. Next is the year code. Both of your numbers are 1, so at least we have that much in common, 1951. The next two letters are the assembly plant code. One of your numbers has MP for Memphis, TN, and the other is KC, Kansas City. The rest of the numbers is the consecutive unit number, assigned at the factory when the order was processed.

If you can post pictures of your truck, that can be helpful. There should be a number stamped on the top of the frame rail near the motor mount on the passenger side if you look under the hood. Hopefully it corresponds to one of your title numbers. There should also be a tag in the glove box on the inside of the glovebox door. There may also be a tag on the firewall near the passenger side hood hinge. Both tags should also have the VIN stamped on them. After 70 years, right or wrong, it's not uncommon to find tags moved from one truck to another due to lost or found paperwork. Let us know what you find. I hope this helps.

I’ll add pictures of where the numbers are listed later when I can but at least for now here’s pictures of my truck.


As I’ve said before the box/bed is from a 52. Can’t wait to cut that “bumper” off and put the right one on. I’ll have to cut some pretty ugly welds off. Hope it doesn’t destroy the bed when I do.



Nothing on the glove box

Tag under the hood, passenger side of the firewall.

Is this anything to note?
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 06:26 PM
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Actually, the box and fenders are from a 53 or newer. That's why they don't match. Different body style. Oh well.

Interestingly, the hood trim is a mis-match, too. The hood front matches the latch header panel with the V8 emblem as 1951. The hood side trim is from a 52 deluxe truck.

Overall, the truck looks great!
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Actually, the box and fenders are from a 53 or newer. That's why they don't match. Different body style. Oh well.

Interestingly, the hood trim is a mis-match, too. The hood front matches the latch header panel with the V8 emblem as 1951. The hood side trim is from a 52 deluxe truck.

Overall, the truck looks great!


Got a bit of work to do on it but I don’t mind. It spoke to me when I saw it haha had to have it. I knew the hood emblems weren’t correct because they say F2 and this isn’t an F2. Maybe this truck will just be a modge podge of sorts. Am I going to have any issues with them not matching body styles as I work on the truck? To be entirely honest I didn’t notice. The owner told me the truck is a 51 and the bed came off a 52. 🤷‍♀️ Other than the added “wings” on the tailgate where someone added tail lights.
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 06:56 PM
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HI Marlyse,
So... does your F1 run? If you put some hubcaps on there it will start looking a lot better.
The bed & fenders look pretty good to me. I agree that rear bumper is a bit much.
It looks like nice project... good move buying it.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 07:08 PM
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It runs

Originally Posted by ben73058
HI Marlyse,
So... does your F1 run? If you put some hubcaps on there it will start looking a lot better.
The bed & fenders look pretty good to me. I agree that rear bumper is a bit much.
It looks like nice project... good move buying it.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

Oh yes it runs. Very fun to drive. The previous owner put a 68 corvette motor and automatic transmission in it. Not that I wouldn’t have loved the original motor. But she sure sounds nice haha.

Im working on cleaning up the inside for paint and reupholstering the original bench seat. And trying to decide if I should try to reseal the tank or just buy a new one. I’m leaning towards just a new tank, makes me feel better and feel like I can trust it a bit more. Gotta wire in the lights and figure out which switch is which. The wires are a big ole mess under the dash.

And gotta put new mount pads on it. She a bit rough as far as bumps go haha 😂 sitting on some of the original wood and some wood the guy stuck under to fill in some spots.





 

Last edited by Marlyse Bingham; May 31, 2020 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Added picture
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Old May 31, 2020 | 08:19 PM
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Nice project - I like your plans for it. The wiring is always a mystery lol
It looks to me like someone put an F3 cab on an F1 chassis. The whole front clip and wheels are F1. As noted the stainless hood spears are from some other truck (F2 52 Deluxe trim). The V8 probably came from the F3 as they swap easily. The plate on the firewall agrees with one of the title numbers but probably not the frame - thus the 2nd serial number. The cowl stamp tells you KC assembly plant. D should be the 51 color code for Alpine Blue 17E is date of assembly - May 17.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Marlyse Bingham
I’ll add pictures of where the numbers are listed later when I can but at least for now here’s pictures of my truck.


As I’ve said before the box/bed is from a 52. Can’t wait to cut that “bumper” off and put the right one on. I’ll have to cut some pretty ugly welds off. Hope it doesn’t destroy the bed when I do.



Nothing on the glove box

Tag under the hood, passenger side of the firewall.

Is this anything to note?
Let's start with the F3 serial number F3R1KC20554
Break Down of the Serial Number
F3 = 3/4 Ton
R = 239ci 8 Cyl 2BC Carburetor
1 = 1951
KC = Kansas City, MO
20554 = Serial Number

KCDI7E 249 Break Down Plant Stamp
KC = Kansas City, MO
D = Should be color, But I don't have D in my records
17E = May 17
249 = down the line

The other Serial Number
F141MP16905
F1 = 1/2 ton
4 (should be either a D, H,or R) = Engine
1 = 1951
MP = Memphis, TN
16905 = Serial Number

I'm guessing Thant that is the Serial they found on the frame.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 11:05 PM
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From: Austin
Hey Marlyse ,
Now that you are in there cleaning up the cab... it sure would be nice to get that
20 gallon gas tank out of the cab. jniolin does a nice write up of what it takes to
get a 22 gallon Mustang tank installed out back under the bed. It's not a bad project ..
you have to move a brace & redo the shock mounts. We really like not smelling that
old tank & hearing the gas sloshing around.. Scope Creep…..

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 10:47 AM
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Oh ya the tank has to be replaced one way or another. Or re sealed...but honestly I’d feel better just replacing it. I hoped to move it under bed but the help I had lined up on this trunk has sorta kinda basically disappeared so moving the tank would likely be above my abilities. Do you have a link either way to the write up you mentioned? Still very interested in reading it to see if it’s worth hiring someone to do this for my truck. Thanks Ben!

Marlyse
 

Last edited by Marlyse Bingham; Jun 4, 2020 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Spelling correction
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