Im looking at the following two balancers, they both look like they will work with my application with the 11 'o-clock timing pointer position but I just dont really know what the difference is between these two to justify the price difference.

The one I am initially looking at is the PB1084ST Dayco/Powerbond Street Performance balancer at $122 and the other is the PB1084SS for $168. It looks like the only difference is just the rpm rating with the PB1084ST being good to 6,500 rpm and the PB1084SS being good to 21,000 rpm. but is that the only difference?

Im looking at the cheaper PB1084ST as this is a street truck with a redline of 6,000 rpm but with such a small price difference if the PB1084SS has more benefits I would consider upgrading if its a better balancer. But there just isnt much information out there. Plus from all I could find it clearly states PB1084SS is with the 11 'o-clock timing pointer position which is what my truck uses but the PB1084ST doesnt state that but I assume its the same.

So has anyone here ever used this series of balancer? If so are they any good and like wise is there really a difference between the PB1084ST and PB1084SS?

Only reason I am looking at them is the 50* timing mark which would be great for me if I ever decide to switch to timing control on my Holley fuel injection setup as I have to stab the distributor at 50* to phase it in properly.

 

Go with the cheaper one. I'd RUN as fast as I could from someone claiming "good to 21,000 rpm"

 

The SS series is constructed differently. The hub is trapped within the outer ring by a giant snap ring for if the elastomer were to fail. It "cannot" come apart unintentionally. You do not need this, just get the cheaper one.

I however do not see a problem with testing something to 21,000 rpm for durability.

 

Late reply but thats what I will be doing. I settled on the cheaper one since it still has engraved timing marks up to 50* btdc it will work out great for me if I ever decide to make the switch from DSII to full on sniper timing control in the future which requires you to install distributor locked in place via the calibration cap at 50* btdc.

Thats interesting I couldnt find any information on the differences. It sure does sound like something I dont need. I erased the more expensive SS from my purchase list and kept the ST Street damper.

Now I just have to look at full roller timing sets, the Comp Cam unit I got people are telling me to not use as they are junk and the unit I have has a bunch of casting flash on the cam gear openings.

 

Just remove the casting flash with a die grinder. I've used the Cloyes O.E. double row roller sets on my last two builds for the 5.0''s

 

So there is nothing wrong with the Comp Cams double roller timing set for a daily driver?

I got the Comp Cams Magnum Double Roller set cause it was the cheapest double roller for use with a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric which I probably wont need anymore considering I am going EFI but part of me still thinks I will install all of it in the off chance the EFI gives me way too much trouble I can at least throw a carb on my engine without major disassembly.

Only thing I dont get is Comp states on summits site that all of their Magnum double roller sets are dynamically balanced for smoother quieter operation and I just cant fathom what exactly that means. Did they spin the gears independently to balance them if so I dont know if I want to grind the casting flash off. I just never heard of a timing set being dynamically balanced. Every true double roller set Ive intalled has been cheapies I picked up at the local auto part store and never had a problem. This is how ever the first one I bought from summit and saw the notes mention balancing.

 

The little material you'll remove will not affect the balance at all. There's so much other harmonics going on there with all the other parts of the valvetrain moving that's going to affect it more anyway.