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Recently bought a 66 F-100 with either a 352 or a later model 390. Not planning on keeping it stock, but more like a low budget resto-mod type build.
Overall runs decent after getting carb tuned and was going to do a bit of a tune-up. Decided to swap in one of those HEI distributors instead of continuing with points, etc.....
After swapping in the new distributor, plugs, and wires, it fired right up but sounded like the top end was coming apart (never any previous noise). I only let it run about 20 seconds. Thinking it was something in the distributor making noise, I pulled it out, checked a few things....put it back in and the same issue.
So I pulled it back out and put the stock distributor back in. When I started it up, there was a definite loud rattle under the passenger side valve cover. I pulled the cover and there was very little oil there.
Did I somehow screw up the oil pump in the install? I have confirmed the oil pump driveshaft is in place and can turn it with a 1/4" extension and deep well socket.
What else would suddenly cause no oil to reach the valvetrain?
Are you sure the oil pump drive shaft is in the pump?
If you can get a drill on the drive shaft to turn it it should take a lot of power to turn the pump if it is pumping.
I think the shaft pulled out of the pump and maybe sitting on top so it is not turning the pump.
Dave ----
When you turn the oil pump drive, do you feel it building pressure? I have seen the oil pump drive shaft pull out with the distributor, then fall into the pan.
Also. Did the distributor drop all the way in, and seat on the oil pump drive? It can mesh with the gear, and not be engaged with the oil pump drive.
Once I lowered the distributor in, I had to rotate the engine about 1/4" to get it to seat fully down. I couldn't get the distributor to go in unless I got it aligned perfect with the drive shaft.
When I put the drive shaft in and used a 1/'4 extension and socket, I could rotate it around and hear the oil moving
(before I put the distributor back in)
You might try spinning the oil pump long enough with a drill motor or air gun that you can watch for oil making it up to the rockers. If that doesn't happen then something has either gotten plugged or the oil pump is worn out. Do it as if you were priming a brand new rebuild.
Having to rotate the distributor when installing it, means that you're trying to mesh the drive gear with the camshaft. It doesn't necessarily mean that the oil pump drive is engaged.
So...how do you know if the drive shaft is engaged once you have the distributor in place?
It looks like the little plate where the drive shaft sits and the lower shaft on the distributor meet would prevent being able to install unless everything is seated properly.
Also...I think I realized when I was manually turning the shaft with my socket wrench that I spun it clockwise instead of counter clockwise. I will pull the distributor again today and try to prime it up using my extension and 1/2" cordless drill to see if I get oil to the top.
I was so strange to me to have the noise immediately after starting the engine. Had I let it run several minutes, I could understand, but seems like the residual oil on all the components would have kept it quiet for a bit. I guess the pump pushes more volume to that area than I realized.
Once you adjust valves on a running engine - especially a fresh engine with new pump and tight tolerances - with the valve covers off you get a real appreciation for how much oil is or should be pumped to the rockers and components. Some people use a set of valve covers with just the tops cut off to help contain the mess during the adjust and then put the normal covers back on when done, if they do work on the same engine type frequently.
Since you can't see the interface between the shaft and distributor once installed one thing to try is to pull the coil wire so it won't fire and then turn it over using the starter and determine if you build some oil pressure using a gauge - or if you already have confirmed that spinning the shaft and pump with a drill gets oil up to the rockers on both sides then turning it using the starter should also pump oil to the rockers. I recommend no coil wire so it doesn't fire since if you don't have oil pressure it could damage the bottom end.
If you turn the pump shaft with a drill, the drill will get a lot of resistance after the engine is primed. A tight engine will almost stall out a 3/8 drill.
Thanks for the all the feedback and suggestions.
I'll let you know how things turn out. I was planning on working on the truck this afternoon after work, but remembered it's my anniversary and my wife is already not loving my new 'girlfriend', so I may have to wait until tomorrow.
I was planning on working on the truck this afternoon after work, but remembered it's my anniversary and my wife is already not loving my new 'girlfriend' ...
Danger Will Robinson!! Danger Will Robinson!! Go buy some flowers for her right now. Or Chocolate. Or even better, both. Try to at least act suitably contrite and apologetic.
Buy a cheap mechanical oil psi gauge and see what your oil psi is. You should be able to buy one for less than $20 that also has assorted fittings and a supply line from engine to gauge. If your dizzy is not spinning the oil pump your oil psi idiot light should be glowing (providing that it worked in the first place. One should always ensure there is some mechanism to assess oil psi and engine temp at the very least. Speculation and pissing into the wind are not advisable. Hopefully the engine is salvageable. Good luck.