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77 Ignition Switch Wiring Help

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Old May 27, 2020 | 04:18 PM
  #1  
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77 Ignition Switch Wiring Help

I'm replacing my ignition switch and one of the wires on the pigtail came loose. I'm also noticing I have 6 terminals on my switch, but only 5 wires on my pigtail. Can someone tell me where the unplugged black/green wire goes and whether I should have 6 wires instead of 5? I believe 77 was a unique year, so as much as I've searched, I haven't found a diagram that quite fits what I'm looking at. Here's what I know:

6 terminals on the switch:
1. ACC
2. ST
3. I1
4. BAT
5. P1
6. P2

5 Wires on my Pigtail:
1. Red/Blue (Currently lined up to ST)
2. Red/Green (Currently lined up to I1)
3. Yellow (Currently lined up to BAT)
4. Purple (Currently lined up to P1)
5. Black/Green (Currently unplugged)

Thanks for the help!




 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 05:25 PM
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Here this ,might help you . https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-wiring.html

 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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Also black and green on mine connects into the ACC which i believe runs back into another wire and connects the alternator.

 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 05:37 PM
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This is from my 77, I had to change it over to a new one. but i took this picture before I did.

 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:02 PM
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Thanks guys. Looks like my loose black/green needs to go to ACC. That leaves P2 open, which I believe is a prove-out terminal and doesn’t have to have anything plugged into it. P1 is for the brake light.
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 12:00 AM
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Yes, as you figured the Black w/green is ACC for most Fords of this era. It handles ALL the switched accessories through the fuse panel (like the heater and turn signals and radio) and directly (such as in the case of the gauges) and is hot in ACC and RUN.
The Red w/green and Green w/red are hot in RUN and START.
The Red w/blue is hot in START only.
I'm guessing that both the P's are prove-outs (basically just grounding when the key is turned to START) but only one is needed for testing the Brake Warning lamp so it illuminates temporarily when the key is in the START position.

And boy, it looks like you're doing the right job at the right time. Those wires are looking a bit long in the tooth! Glad you're getting it fixed. Could have started giving you all sorts of hair-pulling moments.
Or did it already and that's why you're doing this?

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Yes, as you figured the Black w/green is ACC for most Fords of this era. It handles ALL the switched accessories through the fuse panel (like the heater and turn signals and radio) and directly (such as in the case of the gauges) and is hot in ACC and RUN.
The Red w/green and Green w/red are hot in RUN and START.
The Red w/blue is hot in START only.
I'm guessing that both the P's are prove-outs (basically just grounding when the key is turned to START) but only one is needed for testing the Brake Warning lamp so it illuminates temporarily when the key is in the START position.

And boy, it looks like you're doing the right job at the right time. Those wires are looking a bit long in the tooth! Glad you're getting it fixed. Could have started giving you all sorts of hair-pulling moments.
Or did it already and that's why you're doing this?

Good luck.

Paul
Thanks.. very helpful. I just got her a couple weeks ago from someone who lost the key. Plan is to use her as a donor truck, but thought I'd tinker around for a bit to see what I can do with her.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2024 | 01:42 AM
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Smile

Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Yes, as you figured the Black w/green is ACC for most Fords of this era. It handles ALL the switched accessories through the fuse panel (like the heater and turn signals and radio) and directly (such as in the case of the gauges) and is hot in ACC and RUN.
The Red w/green and Green w/red are hot in RUN and START.
The Red w/blue is hot in START only.
I'm guessing that both the P's are prove-outs (basically just grounding when the key is turned to START) but only one is needed for testing the Brake Warning lamp so it illuminates temporarily when the key is in the START position.

And boy, it looks like you're doing the right job at the right time. Those wires are looking a bit long in the tooth! Glad you're getting it fixed. Could have started giving you all sorts of hair-pulling moments.
Or did it already and that's why you're doing this?

Good luck.

Paul
Can you help me kinda new on here where do i connect my red/green wire and to what do i connect it also the red/blue wire to what do i connect it
I took my black/green to give power to my fuse box
 
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Old Nov 24, 2024 | 04:41 PM
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What year and model truck?
Automatic transmission or manual?

The red with blue wire has only one function on our trucks, and that is to crank the starter.
It runs either directly from the ignition switch to the “S“ post on the starter relay/solenoid on the fender, or to the neutral safety switch first, and then on up to the starter relay.
A ‘78 or ‘79 truck has the NSS (neutral safety switch) on the side of the automatic transmission. Earlier trucks had the NSS near the base of the steering column first inside the cab.

Depending upon the year of the truck, the green with red may have only one function as well. That’s the power of the voltage relay under the hood.
As trucks got more sophisticated wiring, there were often multiple green with red wires coming from the ignition switch to the various components.
 
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