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460 cold start issue

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Old May 25, 2020 | 12:38 PM
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460 cold start issue

I’m having an issue with my 97’ F250 w/460 having a cold start issue. Truck with turn over for 5-6 seconds before sputtering, then I’ll crank again for around 3 seconds, she’ll stumble a bit then raise to idle rpms. Once the truck has ran for a little it will immediately restart. I’ve pulled an ICM from another truck of mine and swapped it in, no change. Truck runs great otherwise.

any thoughts?
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TDK08
I’m having an issue with my 97’ F250 w/460 having a cold start issue. Truck with turn over for 5-6 seconds before sputtering, then I’ll crank again for around 3 seconds, she’ll stumble a bit then raise to idle rpms. Once the truck has ran for a little it will immediately restart. I’ve pulled an ICM from another truck of mine and swapped it in, no change. Truck runs great otherwise.

any thoughts?
Probably won't get much help here without telling us what codes you get and what your fuel pressure is. You can't really work on these trucks without a code reader and a fuel gauge.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 03:39 PM
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Could be any number of these causing it.

From the symptoms, I'm getting weak fuel pump. Put a fuel pressure tester on it and see what it is when you 1st prime the engine, Not start it.

Pull codes and we can help narrow down with Fuel psi #'s what the problem is or could be without throwing money at it.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 11:23 AM
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Thank you both. I’ll get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge and report back.

i am getting a 212, 332, and 311 code. These were provided to me by a mechanic using a scanner last week. Since last week I have installed a twisted smog box and deleted the EGR and smog system. That didn’t have any effect on the cold start issue. Since buying the truck a few weeks ago I have also replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor which is something I do on any car I buy so I can get a “fresh start”. The problem existed before this work, and wasn’t effected by it.

If it matters, it doesn’t matter what tank I’m on. The cold start issue remains.

also, when the front tank is full I can smell fuel. I crawled under and noticed fuel seeping out from the top of the tank. I’ll probably pull the bed to determine what it’s leaking from.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 12:52 PM
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Good to see codes...

Code 212...212

(M)

Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault – Ignition Systems

Most of the time, this code can be attributed to a failing ICM. Be absolutely sure that a Motorcraft (Black) ICM is installed. If the ICM is Grey, its incorrect module. Don't rely on Aftermarket, over the counter ICM modules. They Fail sooner than later.

That code could also be a symptom of a failing PIP sensor in the distributor.

I don't have the test outline to test either one, but its readily available using the Search Feature or Googling it.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 01:35 PM
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311, 332, could be your twisted box, doesnt work as claimed, like many others have found out, after purchasing, deleting them doesnt gain you hp, nor does having them make you loose hp, have you tried cycling the key a few times before trying to start it, and on your 212, check yours with the ones below make sure it is one of these, preferably a motorcraft.

 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 03:14 PM
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I’ll take a look at the numbers on the ICM. The one I pulled out of the truck(1997)was Motorcraft, but gray colored. The one I swapped in from my other truck was off-brand, gray, and other truck(1994)didn’t have the cold start issue.

if needed, what is a good source for the black ICM? Only available at Ford?

As for the EGR codes, those were there before the twisted smog box installation. I need to clear the codes and see if they reappear.

ill check out the test for the ICM and PIP.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 04:03 PM
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any chain parts stores(rock auto we get discount) have them listed wrong for our trucks, to get the correct one ask for 95 Mustang GT 5.0L, and like you said, may not be cold start problem, just will be down on power, have you tried cycling the key a few times before first cold start, give you an idea, if pumps, until you got pressure gauge, then you can also check if regulator is holding pressure, and/or if injector/s might be leaking'
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted) --test #7 is PIP
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 04:10 PM
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Thank you.

i haven’t tried cycling the key numerous times prior to cranking engine. I’ll have to give it a shot tomorrow Morning as I drove it a few hrs ago, and the problem doesn’t repeat itself unless the truck sits for 6+hrs.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 04:34 PM
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Try cycling the key ON and then back to OFF 3 times before starting it tomorrow. Allow the PCM to cycle/ prime/ energize the fuel pump(s) then try starting the engine.

Get back to us on Fuel PSI numbers as I mentioned before.
 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 10:10 AM
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It’ll be a few days until I can get the fuel pressure gauge.

i did cycle the key 3-4 times allowing the fuel pump to prime each time. The truck started a little quicker, about 3-4 seconds, when it did fire it stumbled about 1 second then raised to idle rpms. So an improvement.
 
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