2001 E250 Issues?
#1
2001 E250 Issues?
Found a 2001 E250 with a 5.4 in absolutely excellent shape with only 130k on it. Haven’t seen a Carfax or physically inspected it yet but is there anything I should look out for or know about the 2001? I’m a little wary as this was towards the beginning of the 5.4 and I don’t know if it still had any issues.
#2
That engine was at least 4 years into production in 2001----nothing to fear about it at all. You'll be going into this somewhat blindly--as all used car buys tend to be anyway----unless there is a history of maintenance. Things like spark plug changes, oil and transmission fluids & filters changed/exchanged as is recommended or suggested by other users like myself.
What I would do without fail is discover the actual oil pressure at hot idle with an actual gauge--the instrument cluster gauge is NOT a gauge at all---it just registers an on/off signal though the OP sending unit. I bought a 2005 with just over 140K miles that upon further inspection (a full year after initial purchase) showed I barely had eight PSI ( PSI)---normal is at least 25 PSI
Plugs MIGHT be an issue if they've never been changed---there's a proper procedure for this but typically its a straight ahead and relatively easy for most DIY's.
That's about it unless you're asking about something specific you're read on the internerd about these engines of the "early" years. Spoiler alert---most of that is BS.
What I would do without fail is discover the actual oil pressure at hot idle with an actual gauge--the instrument cluster gauge is NOT a gauge at all---it just registers an on/off signal though the OP sending unit. I bought a 2005 with just over 140K miles that upon further inspection (a full year after initial purchase) showed I barely had eight PSI ( PSI)---normal is at least 25 PSI
Plugs MIGHT be an issue if they've never been changed---there's a proper procedure for this but typically its a straight ahead and relatively easy for most DIY's.
That's about it unless you're asking about something specific you're read on the internerd about these engines of the "early" years. Spoiler alert---most of that is BS.
#3
Don't miss the gutter inspection on the roof, look for separation and failing paint all around and down the short seam at the top of the A pillars. If you can sneak anything between the bead of seam seal and the roof or gutter metal, there is a good chance there is rust down in there. It's a major job that really needs a scaffolding system to dig out and replace that gutter/seam sealant. I did it standing in the door openings and even sitting on the roof and was hating life until I built a small platform to stand on. Maybe a fast worker in a controlled environment could make quicker work of it but I spent a week digging, scraping, wire wheel, priming, sealing, painting...
#4
That engine was at least 4 years into production in 2001----nothing to fear about it at all. You'll be going into this somewhat blindly--as all used car buys tend to be anyway----unless there is a history of maintenance. Things like spark plug changes, oil and transmission fluids & filters changed/exchanged as is recommended or suggested by other users like myself.
What I would do without fail is discover the actual oil pressure at hot idle with an actual gauge--the instrument cluster gauge is NOT a gauge at all---it just registers an on/off signal though the OP sending unit. I bought a 2005 with just over 140K miles that upon further inspection (a full year after initial purchase) showed I barely had eight PSI ( PSI)---normal is at least 25 PSI
Plugs MIGHT be an issue if they've never been changed---there's a proper procedure for this but typically its a straight ahead and relatively easy for most DIY's.
That's about it unless you're asking about something specific you're read on the internerd about these engines of the "early" years. Spoiler alert---most of that is BS.
What I would do without fail is discover the actual oil pressure at hot idle with an actual gauge--the instrument cluster gauge is NOT a gauge at all---it just registers an on/off signal though the OP sending unit. I bought a 2005 with just over 140K miles that upon further inspection (a full year after initial purchase) showed I barely had eight PSI ( PSI)---normal is at least 25 PSI
Plugs MIGHT be an issue if they've never been changed---there's a proper procedure for this but typically its a straight ahead and relatively easy for most DIY's.
That's about it unless you're asking about something specific you're read on the internerd about these engines of the "early" years. Spoiler alert---most of that is BS.
#5
Don't miss the gutter inspection on the roof, look for separation and failing paint all around and down the short seam at the top of the A pillars. If you can sneak anything between the bead of seam seal and the roof or gutter metal, there is a good chance there is rust down in there. It's a major job that really needs a scaffolding system to dig out and replace that gutter/seam sealant. I did it standing in the door openings and even sitting on the roof and was hating life until I built a small platform to stand on. Maybe a fast worker in a controlled environment could make quicker work of it but I spent a week digging, scraping, wire wheel, priming, sealing, painting...
#6
The E-Series did not ever receive the dreaded 3V heads which tend to be more maintenance sensitive than the stalwarts that are the 2V versions. The motor is so well designed (generally) that the later versions weren't necessarily more desirable than those built during the first run in model year 1997.
The only real issue with all Modular Motors was spark plugs being ejected (or "blown") from the heads, the real cause being debated even these days. Whether it was a minor defect in some head castings or improper installation there is a fix that most any competent independent repair shop can perform---not sure the dealers do this rather than replace the entire head. If the van you're looking to buy has not yet suffered this its unlikely it will happen from here on out. You might ask the current owner if they know of any issues relating to spark plugs.
ALSO ASK when the plugs were last changed---that's important to know if they've neglected that somewhat necessary maintenance step. If they don't know or can assure you they've been changed at some point that only means it should be done soon after you acquire it, preferably on a DIY basis as that's the best practice to assure a ham-handed shop employee not cause a striped head. There is a proper process for doing this without knowing when plugs were last changed.
Make sure your inspection mechanic actually connects an oil pressure test gauge to the engine and check OP at the hot idle---there's no other reliable way to check that.
Do keep in mind I'm driving a 2000 E250 w/5.4 motor, as many as 5 of the factory original COP's still in place and running great---290+ K miles so far. How's that for longevity on an "early" Modular Motor?
The only real issue with all Modular Motors was spark plugs being ejected (or "blown") from the heads, the real cause being debated even these days. Whether it was a minor defect in some head castings or improper installation there is a fix that most any competent independent repair shop can perform---not sure the dealers do this rather than replace the entire head. If the van you're looking to buy has not yet suffered this its unlikely it will happen from here on out. You might ask the current owner if they know of any issues relating to spark plugs.
ALSO ASK when the plugs were last changed---that's important to know if they've neglected that somewhat necessary maintenance step. If they don't know or can assure you they've been changed at some point that only means it should be done soon after you acquire it, preferably on a DIY basis as that's the best practice to assure a ham-handed shop employee not cause a striped head. There is a proper process for doing this without knowing when plugs were last changed.
Make sure your inspection mechanic actually connects an oil pressure test gauge to the engine and check OP at the hot idle---there's no other reliable way to check that.
Do keep in mind I'm driving a 2000 E250 w/5.4 motor, as many as 5 of the factory original COP's still in place and running great---290+ K miles so far. How's that for longevity on an "early" Modular Motor?
#7
The E-Series did not ever receive the dreaded 3V heads which tend to be more maintenance sensitive than the stalwarts that are the 2V versions. The motor is so well designed (generally) that the later versions weren't necessarily more desirable than those built during the first run in model year 1997.
The only real issue with all Modular Motors was spark plugs being ejected (or "blown") from the heads, the real cause being debated even these days. Whether it was a minor defect in some head castings or improper installation there is a fix that most any competent independent repair shop can perform---not sure the dealers do this rather than replace the entire head. If the van you're looking to buy has not yet suffered this its unlikely it will happen from here on out. You might ask the current owner if they know of any issues relating to spark plugs.
ALSO ASK when the plugs were last changed---that's important to know if they've neglected that somewhat necessary maintenance step. If they don't know or can assure you they've been changed at some point that only means it should be done soon after you acquire it, preferably on a DIY basis as that's the best practice to assure a ham-handed shop employee not cause a striped head. There is a proper process for doing this without knowing when plugs were last changed.
Make sure your inspection mechanic actually connects an oil pressure test gauge to the engine and check OP at the hot idle---there's no other reliable way to check that.
Do keep in mind I'm driving a 2000 E250 w/5.4 motor, as many as 5 of the factory original COP's still in place and running great---290+ K miles so far. How's that for longevity on an "early" Modular Motor?
The only real issue with all Modular Motors was spark plugs being ejected (or "blown") from the heads, the real cause being debated even these days. Whether it was a minor defect in some head castings or improper installation there is a fix that most any competent independent repair shop can perform---not sure the dealers do this rather than replace the entire head. If the van you're looking to buy has not yet suffered this its unlikely it will happen from here on out. You might ask the current owner if they know of any issues relating to spark plugs.
ALSO ASK when the plugs were last changed---that's important to know if they've neglected that somewhat necessary maintenance step. If they don't know or can assure you they've been changed at some point that only means it should be done soon after you acquire it, preferably on a DIY basis as that's the best practice to assure a ham-handed shop employee not cause a striped head. There is a proper process for doing this without knowing when plugs were last changed.
Make sure your inspection mechanic actually connects an oil pressure test gauge to the engine and check OP at the hot idle---there's no other reliable way to check that.
Do keep in mind I'm driving a 2000 E250 w/5.4 motor, as many as 5 of the factory original COP's still in place and running great---290+ K miles so far. How's that for longevity on an "early" Modular Motor?
Sounds like your motor is in great shape. Despite the bad things I’ve read I really think these are great engines and the amount of high-milage ones still on the road are a testament to that. Thanks again!
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#8
Looking in the Modular Motors sub-forum here on FTE will yield a wealth of information on the various procedures others have used in situations similar to yours---unknown plug change interval. The best procedures aren't overly complicated or requiring expensive single-use tools, they're more time consuming as its done in several steps sometimes pausing over night to allow recommended chemicals to work their magic.
I might have a link or two to this saved---if I do I'll post them here for your benefit.
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