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Time for a new alternator

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Old May 24, 2020 | 01:21 AM
  #1  
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Time for a new alternator

Hey all

I am back in my motorhome now as I am using it to be close to a new job site instead of making a 40 mile trek every morning & night. Unfortunately, on my way out here the very first day, I learned from the tire store I stopped to air up my tires that my alternator is putting out nothing. I had it towed to the campground I am staying at.because I didn't think the (brand new) battery would make a 30 mi trip without an alt.

So, I now have the RV parked. It is a 2007 Fleetwood Jamboree 31M class C motorhome. It was built on an E450 chassis with the V10 engine. My question is simple - what alternator should I be putting into the rig? For the F350 we had, we upgraded to a 130A because the 65A was so anemic. It is basically time for me to do something similar here, and I thought I would ask advice first.

The RV has roughly 25,000 miles on it, btw.

E450 alternator. I believe it is stock - but I do not know if the RV company might have made a change. This is definitely the first alternator in the vehicle as far as I am aware.
And here is what is currently under the hood:

 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 02:38 AM
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My general opinion is to always have as much power as reasonably possible, so if it were me, I’d go for the highest amp rated alternator that will swap in

 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:20 AM
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Unless the existing alternator wasn't recharging the main battery I don't see too many good reasons to add something of significantly larger capacity UNLESS you're trying to run the house portions of your rig off that alternator. I myself use whatever is called for stock new from NAPA, lifetime warranty and all that stuff. They'll run about $200 but of the 3-4 I've installed they've all lasted 10+ years without a single failure.

 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:08 AM
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I had a stock alternator in my 2006 F350 5.4l
that was, I think, 135 amps

was a plow truck, so had very noticeable draw when plowing.

at the time, evidently the only upgrade was to a 145 amp. Did that, and there was a significant improvement in the draw when plowing

So....just a little increase can be an improvement

 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:48 AM
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You may want to see if there is an ambulance option (usually 200 amp) available. Factory should be around 130 amps. I usually like NAPA but I've had issues with the last couple for my van but that may be because I rarely drive it and when I do it works it hard to top the battery back off. The new ones are usually cheaper then the rebuilt and have no core with a lifetime warrenty. I have an extra in the garage I'm thinking of installing a 200 amp kit into
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 04:55 PM
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I am not generally trying to run the house portions of the RV on the alternator. That's what the generator is for if I am boondocking or even on the road. I just want it to work well, period. Guess I'll have the pull the existing one and see exactly what's in there now and start there.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 10:33 PM
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Don't buy a rebuilt O'Reilly's. Made a mistake giving back my original ford alternator housing for the core charge and wound up replacing mine 3 times within 2 years after that. The one i have been running for over a year now is a new NAPA alternator and seems to be doing great.
 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 09:18 AM
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From the picture above, it APPEARS you have a 130 amp 3G alternator. The two cooling holes, on top of the other, within the ribbed section at 12 o'clock is generally a higher amp (130+) unit. The lower amp rated versions have four holes in that area. My 130 amp side mount has been keeping two batteries alive, one a house, since 1994 and 120,000 miles. I've replaced the bearings, but not the brush/regulator assembly.

What annaleigh stated above. Don't give up your 25k mile, original alternator if possible. If you can find a repair shop, get the original rebuilt. The brush/regulator assembly is not that difficult to DIY, and replacements are readily available online. If that's not possible, I would pay the core charge and keep the original to have rebuilt as a spare. Or, as stated by others, buy new, no core required.

The problem could be external to the alternator, possibly fuse links. If unable to test DIY, alternator removal, spinning and testing at a parts house is the typical method.

Going higher amps with original fusible links limits maximum output to that of the original alternator/wiring.



 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 11:36 AM
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O’Reilly alternator

Originally Posted by annaleigh
Don't buy a rebuilt O'Reilly's. Made a mistake giving back my original ford alternator housing for the core charge and wound up replacing mine 3 times within 2 years after that. The one i have been running for over a year now is a new NAPA alternator and seems to be doing great.
I’ve gone through TWO of those alternators in lest than a month!!!! I will NEVER again buy those things; I heard Autozone was bad, so I tried their competitor. I called my local one yesterday and told them about my latest problem....VOLTAGE REGULATOR is malfunctioning. So I had them ship a MOTORCRAFT..... I will pick it up today.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:30 AM
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^^^Early on I suggested NAPA as they've been flawless for me over the past 12 years, Brand new with lifetime guarantee for just under $200, no core/exchange. Motorcraft is excellent although I'm not sure how price competitive they would be with NAPA.

The big chain discount houses are hit or miss---some of their stuff lasts a lifetime, other parts repeatedly fail.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2020 | 02:59 PM
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So I finally had enough time off to get to this project on my long list of to-do's. With COVID I have been working absolutely tons of overtime. I got the alternator out and it appears it is the original 130A heavy duty alternator from Motorcraft. That will be $308 with tax & shipping in there.
MOTORCRAFTNGL7764N6G{#G2MZ10346AY} according to Rockauto.

I believe I discovered why the original alternator seemed to have an issue. After I had it out and was looking at it by my laptop for part numbers, I discovered a 2" lizard had died inside on the coils. I pulled his carcass out of there and made sure there wasn't any other debris. I brought it to O' and they said it rated as Good. I tried it again, but the battery indicator dash light still won't turn off.

So I ordered the new Motorcraft part above and I can keep the original. What else can I troubleshoot - i.e. fuses etc?


Thanks in advance!
 
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