Update:

Mac Daddy,
I appreciate that you are trying to save my life. I also appreciate the cleaning tool tip. At first I was feeling a lot of push back on your HF dislike. I'm not made of money and this was a full set with filled tanks brand new for cheap. Yes HF makes a lot of sh...y products that break but they also make some good stuff. It's hard to find good products these days even from the best name brands. Everything is plastique and Chinesium. Not to get political but The Corps that call themselves "American" are bought and cheapened for sale. Products are planned obsolete, so you always buy a new one when it breaks. Its one thing for plastique to break but I figured they weren't gonna blow me up. There would be hell to pay for that. The lawyers would line up. But, then I watched this guy I like to watch because he talks a lot about HF, and on the subject this was all I could find.
and there it is. He uses the victor. So I looked for the Victor, like you said, and I found this https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/t...124334179.html
I'm not gonna contact him yet because I'm gonna try the propane torch thing and the air hammer thing first.

WWR,
The access from the front side is limited and the bolt sticking out makes it hard to get purchase on it. I guess I could use a punch to get started but I'm doubtful that method would break it. You are the second guy to say that it is probably not threaded and I'm gonna go on that supposition. As far as MAPP gas, I assume you mean a propane torch (without separate oxygen). My tank is empty so I have to go to Home Depot and get one. Later today I'm gonna try heating it up and see if it hammers out and if I need to, ill drag out the compressor. If not I'm gonna contact the Acetylene, Craigslist, guy and visit him to see if he can negotiate (I hate it when people negotiate without seeing the item).

Will update

Thanks

 

MAPP is MAPP, usually yellow canisters. LP is LP, usually green canisters. MAPP burns a good bit hotter than LP and nearly as hot as OA

Technically all MAPP is now MAPP Pro - apparently they stopped making real MAPP gas circa '08, so it's like the fake crab of MAPP gas. I honestly don't recall if PRO burns cooler than the real deal and apparently I'm too lazy to Google it ATM

I actually watch for old canisters of real MAPP at pawn shops now - if nothing else it lights off more easily than PRO IME

I'm also NO plumber but for the little (VERY little) sweating I did on my shop air system I prefer MAPP, so it's not a bad investment in general.

 

Also it doesn't much help you I guess but if it were in my shop I'd likely just pierce thru the center w my plasma then drive it out. I've done this on dozens of rivets during TTB SAS's and leaf spring hanger swaps: cut or grind head off, pierce center of offending stud or rivet, drive it out. Works every time.

 

WWR,

Glad you wrote back it was just in time. As I'm walking into home depot to look for a propane tank, I got your message and got the MAPP in the Yellow canister instead. On the package it has only one P.

Eventually I will be getting into arc welding, Plasma cutting and more but for now, I'm hoping the MAPP will do this.


Tonight when it gets cooler we continue...

 

Yeah looks like they've maybe tried to work that second "P" into the "Pro" for the fake crab version.

You can see the pawn shop $2.00 price tag on my real deal throwback find.....poppin' tags??

 

Looked it up and it would seem the MAP Pro burns only slightly hotter than regular Propane and not anywhere near the temps of the old MAPP stuff that you have. Too bad but lets see if it will do the job.

https://www.hunker.com/13415241/mapp-gas-vs-propane-gas

 

Kaplah!, It's out!

Good morning,
Thanks to everyone. I needed this forum. also special thanks to WWR for giving me the final solution. It may not be the hottest crab but it got the metal glowing red hot.
Started the morning with this.


Was concerned about setting the oil on fire which I left from yesterday with the drilling that I did so I tested a small area with the torch.


Spent a few minutes with the torch and got the whole flange glowing red hot from the front and the back of the bolt. Then I started hammering on it from the front.


I realized I got it out part of the way


I used a punch to get it out the rest of the way.


So as You can see, It wasn't threaded in.


Thanks to everyone.

If I can I would like to get a hold of this exact stud or at least something similar that will do the same job. Does anyone know where I can look for a stud that will fit in there, be able to stand the exhaust heat and be the right size and long enough to work there?

If not then I will just use a bolt that fits the space.

Zack

 

Forgot one last picture...

 

As far as the heat goes, there's really nothing special about exhaust hardware, it's just "steel." Anything high-zoot would just anneal from the heat, anyway. If anything a cast iron of some sort would take the heat better, but I'm not aware of cast iron fasteners and they'd be fairly weak I'd think.

Honestly I'd just grab any bolt that fits and move on with life. You're supposed to be busy panicking about COVID19 anyway, not fixing your truck.

If you really want a stud try local exhaust shops. It might also be possible to find tiny wheel studs for something like a garden tractor (guessing), but you could spend days chasing your tail. A REALLY good, large fastener house (read: not a "hardware store") might also have studs like this.

Maybe poke around the HELP section at O'Reilly or Autozone.........apparently they offer some studs in this style (most are threaded on both ends like for exhaust manifolds at the heads). Here's one example I found in a random web search but I'm certain your app is not 3/8-16 .........er fairly certain at least
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HELP-Exh...3127/308732352

The thread pitch doesn't matter - all that matters is that the knurls or serrations are the proper OD to actually press into your flange and stay there.

But again, I'd grab a nut and bolt and move on........but it's your truck and your time.

 

WWR,

I do my panicking between 1 and 3. Really, these days, I don't get out much, and I wear a mask when I do. I don't think I'll be down from this virus, but I don't want to spread it to anyone who might not have the best immune system. This truck thing is perfect for all that stay at home time and most of the parts I get on Ebay and Amazon. Like everyone, I'm starting to get stir crazy.

I dilly around with this work and I still have fun doing it. I don't need the truck to get around so I'm taking my time to get it done as well as I can, one problem at a time, and learning in the process.

I went to Advance Auto parts and Autozone with no luck so I went to Ace Hardware and picked up this. Shown here next to the broken part.




Guess I bent the flange some by hitting it so much when it was glowing so I tried the bolt in there and its a little tricky but I'll make it work.

Thanks again for all your help...

 

Here is what I think is a very good video about oxy-acetylene cutting for anyone that is interested.